sjmmarsh

Try calling CC - they are still getting deliveries but sell out quickly. BMTR also have them but are 10% more than CC. Steve

Jon The first thing to do is to have a look under the dash to see if you have ordinary washers and nuts holding the screen on, or a retaining channel with captive nuts. The channel bolts on to the scuttle and makes it easier to swap the screen subsequently, so order them if you don't have them already fitted. To access the nuts you may need to remove the knee panels - this should just need some screws removing, but you may have to drill a rivet out as well. The knee panel just slots in behind the inner skin. If you have an FIA switch, disconnect the battery before you go near it with any spanners! The screen just needs the 4 bolts removing now, but I would loosen the 6 screws holding the stanchion to the screen. This gives you a bit more wiggle room and helps avoid scratching the paintwork. Put a towel or blanket on the bonnet before you start to lower the screen on to. It is easier to have someone to hold the screen the first time, but once you have done it it is a one man job if you have the retaining channels fitted. With the bolts out, lower the screen on to the bonnet. There will be a lot of crud under the screen, but you should see two wires to the heated screen. You will need to disconnect these under the dash and pull them through the grommets - take the silicon cover off the spade terminal first. Fitting the screen is the reverse of the above. It now takes me 5 mins to fit the aero screen and 10 mins to go back to a full screen. Steve

Make sure the road isn't cobbled next time.....

I can't see how the zircotec coating is relevant. It should move the heat dissipation down to the exhaust and cat. It does sound like your coolant is getting very hot somewhere. The temp reading is from the sensor on the water rail in front of the pedal box, so if the flow is restricted somewhere it could be that the problem is not seen by the sensor. You may have noticed sudden drops in the temperature when you floor it on the road - this is caused by the thermostat opening on the radiator to increase the cooling and dumping the already cooled water from the rad into the engine. Is there any seepage from the header tank cap? If you have high pressure caused by boiling it should show as seepage there as the cap has a relief valve in it. Just my initial thoughts. Steve

NHS

Erngor The black leads are the earth connections. One should go to the screen (the bullet connector) and the other to the switch. The live power is a green lead that should come from the fuse box to the switch. The Green and Pink lead should go into the dash loom and come out under the dash near the light switch. It probably has a bullet connector as it sounds like a previous owner used to switch between full screen and aero (bullet connectors are easier to push through the rubber grommet in the scuttle). It sound like you have the switch wired OK - you are just missing the live feed to the screen - the green/pink lead. This is the wiring diagram for a CSR - but the K-Series dash is the same AfAIK. Steve

Have a good look under the drivers side - there should be a female spade terminal in there somewhere. It has probably been tucked into the loom - mine just dangles down when I switch to aero screen. Steve

spotted heading north on the Fosse Way coming out of Morton in the Marsh. I was headed the other way at the back of a queue of traffic, so heard the great noise as you pulled out and overtook a few cars.

I have a spare dented bonnet in case anyone wants to practice their Yuri Geller skills. I haven't got round to it yet. Steve

glasgow - those mirrors look nice. Are they a straight replacement for the standard ones? (i.e. are the bolt holes in the same place?). Steve

If you have driven an MX5 you should be OK. RWD and no electronic throttle Steve

Joseph I'd also recommend going on a track day - particularly one of the club ones. Not to get you hooked (although that may happen) but to truly appreciate how good these cars are. Knowing how they handle towards the limit will give you much more confidence on the road. In the dry, a 7 will go, stop and corner better than the vast majority of cars on the road. In the wet though, this is not true - you can provoke the rear end to oversteer/spin if you don't use your right foot carefully. You don't have ABS either. If you have only driven front wheel drive cars before, get some driver training about how rwd cars behave. If you have only driven modern cars (electronic throttle) you may be surprised at how much they manage what you are asking the car to do. Mash the throttle in a modern car and a combination of traction control and engine management (trying to be more fuel efficient) will apply the throttle more gently than you did. In a 7, you will get exactly what you asked the engine to do.... Steve

It was this one.

parked up in the Wheatsheaf, Greetham today (Thu). I couldn't work out who was driving it in the pub, but presume you were there for a meal. it looked in great condition!

Heading North around 4pm. You were in a green 7 with twin black stripe and half hood. I couldn't catch your reg as I was heading south. Had the stationary traffic eased before you hit it? Steve

Two yellow sevens in the garage at the same time. Must be a first in Stamford! I was in the yellow CSR - you were two up in a yellow S3. Steve

Do you know what settings the race mechanic dialled in? The outer edge wear could be a number of things: too much toe in car being driven too fast into a corner, leading to under steer on way in LSD pushing the car out of a corner leading to under steer on way out. not enough camber Did you notice any under/oversteer when on track?

15A sounds like the meter was connected incorrectly! If swapping alternators has the same problem, then attention moves to the wring - particularly connectors. Try waggling the wires while someone else watches the LED. Ste e

You can also get a feedback loop which increases the noise if both the headphones and the radio run off the battery. Try running just one connected to the car battery (if you can). Steve

His engine who?

This is one of the reasons that I wrote to the MSA to tell them why I am not sprinting this year.... Steve

It is good news for CSR owners as I had understood that to be compliant, the legs of the roll bar had to extend the full length of the seat back (as shown by the dotted section in diagram K60(I)). Who was it at the MSA who cleared the FIA roll bar as being compliant with the MSA 2016 blue book? Knowing this will help other sprint series where confusion still reigns! Steve

The chin spoiler is allowed on road going cars - this is what you are looking for, not an F1 style front wing! steve

Guy S3, SV or CSR? Which year? I think it will make a difference! Steve

msamro i am pretty sure that JK was referring to the lowered floor These do reduce ground clearance a little, but it is only an issue on narrow speed bumps ( the Tarmac ones you sometimes see in car parks) or where there is a crest in the road - typically at the top of a ramp on a ferry or eurotunnel. In practice I seldom have an issue and even then it is only the seat bolts grounding out, which sounds much worse than it is in reality. The lowered floor needs to be specific to your ca r, but I can't see what is different with your car from other S3s of similar vintage.... Steve