StevehS3
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Everything posted by StevehS3
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Most of the error on my 310 was corrected by bending the sender float arm. I believe this is needed because the fuel pump is sat in a well in the Ford application. Certainly my float was raised above the bottom of the tank when empty. John Vine has a thread somewhere that describes this well and how to rectify.
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Any induction noise with that setup? I have close to zero with the airbox.
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1. I think it depends on several factors but I would change them after 5 years. Better still, wear them out! 2. I always remove the wheels and take them along with the new tyres to the fitter.
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I am the only Green 7 in the village if you don't mind please haha.
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#13 are they stocked anywhere to try on or mail order only?
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2016 variable cam sigma. I used the app recommended in the instructions (OBD Home) and I also used Auto Doctor. Both connected to the ECU.
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First impressions are good and super cheap. There is a choice of compatible apps including the Auto Doc. It connects to a phone using Bluetooth or Wi-Fi. As I say, I don't know what else it will show.
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I bought one of these mentioned previously. I haven't had a proper go with it but it connected to the ECU and showed temperature, RPM, fault codes etc. It also graphs the data so I could see the coolant temp increasing. I am hoping it will show the TPS voltage and site. Incredible if it does!
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Apologies for not understanding but is an annual flush necessary? I swapped to a blue coolant and change that every 2 years as per the instructions.
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When you have the connectors out of the plastic carrier the next problem is that they won't pass through the bottom hole needed to change the bowl, or at least mine wouldn't.
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Did you have any luck with the ODB reader? Did it connect to your ECU?
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As above, my Sigma with a heater was very easy to re-fill. Didn't need a second go at it.
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I have to say, I have never been keen on the Apollo wheel centre caps. Apart from the poor fit I don't like the look of them with the high gloss black plastic and faux bolt holes. I would have preferred a more simple flush fitting cap.
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How is it going Beagler?
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My 310R with factory radiator is rock solid at just over 80 degrees on the gauge. Winter, summer, road, track - always the same unless in standing traffic in which case it goes higher until the fan comes on. My manual says "the needle will rise from the lower (cold) mark to the middle part of the gauge, where it will remain while the engine is operating at its normal temperature." I think mine has only one temperature sender and the ECU controls the fan. I think the Duratecs run hotter. I wonder if yours has a different radiator which over-cools when the thermostat opens?
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#23 will that work with a MBE ECU which is CAN protocol?
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Yes, a big thank you to the organisers for another fabulous day at Anglesey Circuit. Thanks also to Steve Mansell my instructor. See you all next time.
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Good for you to know that your engine produced its rated power before the modifications.
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Advice sought – mapping session and fuel to use
StevehS3 replied to Nick Bassett's topic in TechTalk
Interesting topic. Is the reason because that with higher octane fuel the ignition can be further advanced (resulting in slightly more power)? -
Advice sought – mapping session and fuel to use
StevehS3 replied to Nick Bassett's topic in TechTalk
Out of interest, when our 7s have a RR session what in addition to the fueling map is changed? Ignition map? Barometric pressure compensation? Cold start settings...? -
I have a pair in stock ready and waiting. Get 'em while you can!
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Aren't driver and passenger side seats the same?
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I change them when they hit the wear markers. 2mm if I remember correctly.
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I have a new pair. Measured at 5.2mm
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Looking forward to hearing about how it feels afterwards.
