ECR

With regard to the doing up of a 4 point with one hand being a requirement of C & U regs, they do not say how long you must take do they ?......... I can do it, but not quickly

Have the front of the car off the ground when you make the adjustment.....

Try Halfords exhaust clamps....Or maybe an electrical wholesaler for plastic conduit clamps (although I dont know if they do them that large ) Edited by - ECR on 26 Jan 2004 16:44:51

A large C frame fitted with shaped rollers between which you feed sheet metal to form compound curves

You can buy your own dye penetrant test kit (not very expensive £30.00 ish ??) and with care check your own wheels.I think Buck and Hickman are currently running a promotion on a diy kit

Hi Marius Lubricate the seals with clutch fluid before you press the cylinder into the bellhousing. I replace ALL seals in the clutch everytime I have the engine out. They do not last very well and it is a small price to pay to avoid getting to (Le Mans ?) and then having your seals fail (which happened to me !) No particular trick to bleeding, just do it the same as you do the brakes See you soon Roger Edited by - ECR on 22 Jan 2004 09:50:09

Whilst the diamond type may be better in some respects ? I have sucessfuly used the standard Dremel cutting disks for this job. Tape the pipe up first and cut through carefuly. It is more difficult for the Dremel to cut through the inner pipe than the braid so I usualy finish that off with a knife.

The inner joints are adjustable up to a point. Not a particularly easy job though as the locking nut for the joint is drilled and dowelled to the rack to prevent movement (on the one I reconditioned at least). This pin has to be drilled out (its soft) before the joint can be adjusted. Re pin the joint after you have adjusted it.

May be some help Bosch 0221503001. The GM part number for this may be 90443900

Think Automotive do an alloy screwed cap with a screwed pipe to suit

You can source these switches without a resistor included and this type can "fry" your alternator. Make sure that your kit is the resistor type. As the switching terminals are not of a "wiping" design the terminals can become corroded fairly quickly. It pays to replace them fairly often. Having said that a cheap and cheerful fix can often be made by supergluing a small washer on the end of the key. This increases the clamping pressure on the terminals.

Sounds very unusual...... Did you jack the car under the chassis when you removed the non nylock ? If yes, drop it on its wheels first so the joint is under pressure. Also degrease both the hole in the upright and the taper on the ball joint Edited by - ECR on 3 Dec 2003 13:15:14

Not too sure how the 4 speed box breathes, but the 5 speed breathes through a hole in the centre of the gearbox lid. Oil from the breather hole coagulates on the lid and usualy eventualy makes its way down the outside of the box and onto the floor. As has been said earlier a little goes a long way. I welded a boss over the breather on my lid and took a pipe to the engine catch tank. It was amazing how much cleaner the underside of the car stayed. It might be that simple

I always use a non nylock nut to pull the joint together (it spins on by hand) and then remove it (it spins off by hand) and replace it with the nylock and finaly tighten. Saves clamps/tape/etc

Puffy I would like to know....

Find anything cap'n ?

No one know ?

Anyone know the capacity of the Caterham integral to bellhousing dry sump tank ? (tank only not the whole system..)

Ammo Just to confirm your choice.... I have managed to crack two cast iron type 9 boxes (250 bhp and a vicious gear change style). Since fitting the Quaiffe alloy box with cast lid I have had no further problems (yet...............) Before I fitted the cast lid I modified it so I could insert a dipstick at the front to check the oil level and can use the new dip stick hole to top up if required. Perhaps Quaiffe can do this for you ? Ex Chairman Roger

When I had upper balljoints with tapered shanks (rose jointed now !) I found it easier on some occasions to use a plain (not nylock) nut to pull the taper into the upright. Once the taper has locked unscrew the plain nut and replace with a nylock. As Arnie says, lower the car to the floor before tightening this particular joint. This puts weight on the taper and helps to stop it twisting

Me too....

I had a problem whilst at Monza a few years back with my 2.0 XE. It would run fine in the paddock (even when "revved") but on the circuit blew water from the expansion tank after less than 2 laps. I could not convince myself that it was a head gasket but even after various plumbing mods at the circuit the problem was still there. Back in UK (with help of coolant tester) I was convinced enough to remove the head. Sure enough, head gasket blown. I put it down to running less than premium fuel on my Swindon map causing detonation at high revs with damage to the head (it's a fast circuit !) and gasket "relaxation" into the damaged area only at the very high pressures experienced on track. I made some good Italian friends whilst trying to sort the problem though so all was not lost ! (still can't speak a word of the lingo.....) Ex Chairman Roger Edited by - ECR on 7 Oct 2003 13:31:45

Just to clarify Grahams post. You do not need the red external battery master switch if your car is licensed for the road. You do need a means of cutting the ignition and isolating the fuel pumps (which as Graham says your ordinary keyed ignition switch does)

Got fed up with having to crawl under the car when removing or replacing the nose cone and fitted a central spring fastener (same as those that hold the forward bonnet fastenings) under the nose. I have also seen over centre clips used in this way. Much more convenient

Depends which shift light you have... On my ACES one I have configured a green light to indicate that I am dropping out of my power band and need to change down.