ECR
-
Posts
4,952 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Blatmaps
Speed Championship Results
News
Website Help
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by ECR
-
Forgive me if this is a little obvious but I have seen it cause problems. There are two bleed nipples on the big brake calipers and if you only bleed one you will not get a good pedal. I have also removed calipers from mountings on occasions and tilted them to free up all air traps (assuming flexible brake pipes !)
-
If you refitted the clutch pressure plate to the flywheel you did use a clutch plate centering tool didn't you ? If not re do the job as this is essential for easier assembly. The engine will need to be tilted backwards at a steep angle when refitting to the engine bay in order to avoid the top diagonals. I always refit minus the alternator and others also remove the starter motor (I have never found the need for this). As previously advised keep the bellhousing face square to the block bolt up face. When you have the thing somewhere in the correct position a little GENTLE levering between the lower chassis tubes and the crank pulley (whilst rocking the engine) usualy works. Edited by - ecr on 4 Feb 2002 16:45:37 Edited by - ecr on 4 Feb 2002 16:46:42
-
I have a 1990 chassis which started life with a X Flow installed. The front anti roll bar on my car was originaly located transversley by jubilee clamps so what you have is a properly engineered solution. Re fit them and keep the abutting faces lightly greased.
-
Do not use alloy bolts. They are only designed for non critical applications. Button head socket or countersunk will do. Edited by - ecr on 25 Jan 2002 13:58:28
-
Splitters work but be aware that they will undoubtedly tear the rubber boot which is not available as a spare. Alternatively, jack the car up so the wheel is hanging. Place a large bar of steel (3/4" diameter x 12" long for example) against the top of the upright next to the ball joint and hit it with a BIG (lump type) hammer. A few blows will shock the joint loose and you will not have damaged the rubber boot. Alternatively use the splitter and drive bootless !
-
I use a red top 30 on my Swindon Vauxhall. Very reliable.
-
Try a large jubilee clip around the four pipes where they enter the collector. It worked for me.
-
I know the basic principles but am after any "tricks of the trade". For instance is it best to cast the seat in more than one go (3 ?) in order to get the seat area fully filled first and then the back rest? I assume that you use blocks in order to create your preferred position and then foam round the holes created as a final operation ? Any tips would be helpfull
-
I chased a problem like this for about 18 months. It turned out to be the connections at the plug on the alternator. Not sure if all wiring looms are the same but the main ignition circuit in mine ran via the alternator. When the connections on the alternator became dirty the contact was broken and the car lurched to a halt. Sometimes the lurching actualy remade the connection at the alternator and the engine then picked up. Very confusing. Keep an eye on the tacho when the problem hits,if the needle (which is electricaly driven) flickers then that is a good indication that your electrics are the cause
-
How much wider is the widetracck front suspension and what track increase if any is used at the rear ?
