ECR

Try melting down your silverware from Curborough and trowelling that into the crack 😬 Not your day for breaking things Graeme

Can't realy add more to Nicks comments. Below are a few facts and figures I have gathered on clutch seals. The Viton alternative is not neccesary Reference for O rings for outer body of clutch slave cylinder believed to be BS 832 (not confirmed) O rings for clutch slave cylinder outer body to bellhousing: .137” cross section diameter and fit into a groove 4.8mm wide x 51.56mm od (base of groove) Clutch Slave Cylinder outer O rings (in Viton) from Wyco Seals, Hereward Rise Halesowen (Oswald Seals) 0121 501 2021: Reference 00-226FPM75. Price 53P each (minimum order charge £5.00)

I have seen drivers coming off the track and using their hand brake when parking in the paddock (usualy novices). Obviously this will soak heat into the fluid. Not you though ?

Caution when buying 7" Superlights The 2 that I purchased (there may be more than 1 offset) I took to BMTR to have ACB10s fitted. They refused to fit them as that particular model needed excessive stretch to fit the tyre (because of the well position). This had given them problems in the past with wheels flying off their fitting machines. They also told me that if the tyre ever needed removing from that rim it would not be possible to fit it to another rim due to the strain previously imposed on the bead. I returned the rims to Superlight who refunded (but not without a substantial deduction). Superlight claim that they can be fitted ok and offered to do that for me (This was geographicaly inconvenient !). They also claim that the rim was designed that way to minimise the risk of deflated tyres leaving the rim (on rally cars if i remember correctly). However, when an AVON trye distributor refuses to fit a tyre I figure there must be something in it.... Although I have purchased a few sets of Superlights in the past they would not now be my first choice. They were less than sympathetic to my problem..... Having said all that I have seen tyres fitted to these rims and used.

Yes using fluid as lubricant. I tried pushing the cold assembly through last night with the same results. The only way I could clear the groove was to apply more pressure. My concern with doing this is that it will turn the lip of the seal back. Still it's assembled now. Looks like you and I are the Club experts on this job

Anyone ?

Anyone have any clever ways to insert the piston into the Caterham dry sump clutch slave cylinder after fitting new seals ? If you have done the job you will know that when inerting the piston the smaller seal drops into the circlip groove on the piston preventing any further assembly. My method is to use a piston follower which is basicaly a piece of steel bar the same size as the minor diameter of the piston which locates in the clearance hole for the first motion shaft. I then insert the follower and piston a little way to expand the seal and leave it (overnight preferably) for the seal to take on a “set”. I then push the whole assembly through quickly. This usualy works but last night, perhaps because the hot weather is making the seals more elastic, I could not get the piston to clear the groove. The assembly is now next to the beer in the fridge (to remove the elasticity) and I will try again later. How do you do it ? By the way warming the seals makes them infinitely easier to get into the grooves in the cylinder Edited by - ecr on 12 Aug 2003 15:48:07

In Motor Sport competition the harder you brake the longer you can keep your foot on the accelerator. This is good for lap times. However the severity of your braking is limited by the grip of your tyre on that particular stretch of tarmac (tyre compounds temperature, weather conditions etc etc). Nevertheless the optimum braking pressure is such that the tyre is nearly (but not quite) loosing grip. If you then change gear (and do not heel and toe) you will be adding engine braking to foot braking and because the tyres were already just at their limit of adhesion you will loose grip. It follows that in a perfect world anyone who does not heel and toe when changing gear (to eliminate engine braking) is not able to brake in the optimum fashion. Put another way. If you brake perfectly (non heel and toe) at 50 yards from a corner and change gear whilst you are doing it then you could be braking at say 40 yards from the corner if you heel and toe whilst changing gear. That’s the theory I do it (on track) because it feels right and sometimes on the road for my own entertainment...

Had to share this great service with others.... My 4 paddle AP cerrametalic friction plate needed replacing (£92.00 ish PLUS carriage and VAT). I sent it to Questmead (08707 450584) who I use for my Mintex brake pads. They re faced the plate as new (they should know what they are doing as they are AP distributors) and returned it within 2 days for a total cost including VAT and 24 hour carriage of £58.70. If your plate is in otherwise good condition then I suggest that you try this excellent re facing service (no connection etc etc...) Ex Chairman Roger

Welding on the block (anywhere) can be problematical if the welder doesn't know his business (and sometimes even if he does !) Distortion is the worry... That bolt hole isn't exactly "critical", can you use a steel filled resin (Devcon for example) to recreate the bulk and then fit a helicoil. It only needs to be tightened enough to stop oil leaks... If that fails then try welding. Good luck Edited by - ecr on 30 Jul 2003 16:24:47

Regardless of tappet noise I would modify the baffles in the cam cover on any 16 v VX engine that is likely to be "driven". What happens with the unmodified arrangement is that oil vapour enters the baffle matrix in the cover, returns to oil consistency and then can only get out by exiting through the cam cover breather into the catch tank. Remove the cam cover and then remove the baffle plate from it (about 12 or so screws). Cut off a piece about 2"square just adjacent to the breather exit and re fit this piece to the cover. Throw the rest of the baffle away. The idea of the 2" square plate covering the breather exit is just to stop oil splashing into the breather outlet. Clean up the silicone sealant left behind from the baffle plate before re fitting. A simple job and well worth doing Edited by - ecr on 11 Jul 2003 09:46:08

A long time since I worked on a crossflow engined car but do I remember a note in the build manual to the effect that you should rotate the rack in order for the column to clear the pump ? Undo the steering column clamp to give yourself more column length ? Never heard of anyone having to drill more mounting holes.....

Looks like from the bearings. Maybe it is as simple as a knackered felt seal. If this has suddenly started, check your bearings. If they are beginning to fail and overheat this could be melting the grease out

If the slack is in the rack and pinion that can be adjusted out (big nut on top of rack). If it is in the ball joints at the end of the track rods that would be suprising after such a low mileage. Where else is the wear ?

Could very well be a gasket failure but as Allen says get the coolant checked for combustion gasses (they replace the header tank cap with a cap that has a pipe running from it to a tube containing a liquid. If this changes colour you have a gasket problem) I would replace the header tank cap as a matter of course Halfords HRC606 0.8 to 1.2bar opening pressure They are very cheap. I had a continual problem with coolant coating the engine untill I replaced the cap. If the gasket has gone you will(unfortunately) probably find that the face of the head has eroded and it needs stripping down, weld repairing and re skimming. This is very successful so dont worry

Could very well be a gasket failure but as Allen says get the coolant checked for combustion gasses (they replace the header tank cap with a cap that has a pipe running from it to a tube containing a liquid. If this changes colour you have a gasket problem) I would replace the header tank cap as a matter of course Halfords HRC606 0.8 to 1.2bar opening pressure They are very cheap. I had a continual problem with coolant coating the engine untill I replaced the cap. If the gasket has gone you will(unfortunately) probably find that the face of the head has eroded and it needs stripping down, weld repairing and re skimming. This is very successful so dont worry

This is a real long shot................ You did remember to re fit the release bearing to the nose of the slave ? (Yes I have done it...Yes I did feel a prat) Otherwise, given what you have said it looks like a mechanical problem with the clutch unit. As an aside, There is a chassis mod which allows you to remove your gearbox from inside the car without removing the engine. Paul Harvey used it at Nurburgring and managed to effect the change in a ridiculously short time. I keep meaning to have it done given the problems I have encountered with gearboxes/clutches but have never quite got round to it. Now I have a dog box I am expecting fewer problems....(watch this space ❗)

Can you disconnect the pipe exiting the master cylinder and blank off the outlet. If so try standing on the clutch pedal and see if it sinks. (although if you have good pedal pressure at the moment you have effectively tried this) When you replaced the slave you did use new o rings on the outside of it didn't you ? (These are just as important as the internal seals) Did the slave unit come to you with internal seals already fitted ? As I understand it you are not able to disengage the clutch to select a gear.This means: a The master cylinder is not pressurising the slave b the slave is being pressurised but not moving c the slave is moving but there is a mechanical blockage in the clutch itself stopping disengagement. (Or perhaps a combination of all three if you are unlucky !) Are you loosing any fluid (check the bottom of the bellhousing) Re bleed. Good luck

David Have you checked and cleaned the wires to the back of the alternator ? My VX was this spec and had almost exactly this problem (replaced ecu twice in an attempt to cure it). Does your tacho "flicker" when you get the misfire ? (mine did). The tacho is in the ignition wiring circuit as is the alternator wiring and a flicker would help confirm Cleaning and recrimping the alternator connections cured the problem instantly (after 2 years searching !)

Drive the car and watch what happens to the rev counter when you get the problem. If the needle flickers this is a sign that the problem is electrical (at least) Wires to the back of the alternator are always worth a look. (took me two years to find that one !) Pull them off , clean and replace

When fitting the diff breather it is important that you line up the cut out on the plastic tube with the notch on the diff casting. Basicaly the pipe inside the diff is cut at an angle and this has to face away from the splashing oil. If you get it the wrong way round it will actualy collect oil. Whilst you have your diff filler plug out get a large hexagon nut welded to it, it makes removal and tightening so much easier next time

Yes, unsprung.

I run the following which I find is a reaonable compromise between road and competition: Pressure Plate LUK 123 012010 Friction plate fitted August 1999 is an AP Racing product (NB new part number is CP6444-5) CP3431-2 DP228RIGCER-1 00X23-7,37 DP = Driven Plate 228 mm diameter RIdgid CERamettalic 1.00mm x 23 tooth spline 7.37mm thick This is on a 250bhp VX. I have had cause to replace the pressure plate once but that was after a fairly major blow up of the release bearing which I believe contributed in a large way. This is not the "ultimate" clutch set up but has performed well for me

Like Dave I am also using wider than wide front track. Clive Kenrick is using wider than us I believe. The problem in going WIDE lies in the angle of the dampers. My car has an outrigger to push the top front damper mounting outwards to keep the damper something like a sensible angle.

The gasket seals around the hole where the gear selector rod pokes through. use a smear of silicone in this area and the old gasket. If you do not seal this joint you will transfer gearbox oil in small quantities into the bellhousing every time you change gear.