ECR

The object of balancing your throttle bodies is to ensure that each cylinder is drawing the same amount of air. If they are all drawing the same as you say they are balanced. im not familiar with the roller barrel setup but if there's only one adjusting screw that will balance the front pair to the rear pair. On my Jenvey doe bodies there is an additional bleed screw on the bodies themselves to balance between the two on the same body. Don't know if that exists on roller barrel setup...

Some of you may not have seen this which I find quite interesting .... Lotus survival rules (Allegedly by Colin Chapman but maybe by Tony Rudd) SURVIVAL RULES (Yours and the Drivers) ISSUE 2 – Refer also to CDC Engineering Policy documents 1. The keywords are elegant simplicity; each part doing three jobs at least. 2. The objective is to win the race. Remember, the car has to finish and a tired, blistered driver won’t help. 3. Car must be designed so that a pre-race check can be carried out completely by one man in six hours. Rectification or readjustment is extra. 4. Pre-race check sheet is supplied to the operator. With each new type of sheet, operators will add to, but may not delete from this. Designer starts the sheet, build and development will add to it and engineering director signs it into law. 5. [Anti-roll bar, camber, wing, brake balance bar changes must be possible in five man minutes AND repeatable. These are no good if they cannot be identified, and repeated. Avoid infinite variation screwed adjustment. 6. Murphy is a racing mechanic and works for Team Lotus. If it can be assembled the wrong way round, he will. 7. Never design or cause to be made something that cannot be inspected. Again, never design something that cannot be seen to be safe or that needs special equipment to prove it. 8. All spherical bearings need protective covers. 9. You can’t change people, so make the car easy to adjust and maintain by easy access. 10. A grease seal over a universal near a brake disc is better than none at all. It will fail before it gets renewed, so provide a flinger disc to direct the grease clear of the brake. 11. Stress suspension for 3g bump on a 2g corner. 12. If the driver believes the car is strong enough it’s worth more than one second per lap. Avoid birdcage structures. All tubular structures to be 3-inch circumference. Adjust the gauge for load. 13. Never use banjos on the pressure side of the fuel system. 14. Never use ‘O’ rings to seal negative pressure. 15. All material, including human skin, is notch sensitive – some more than others – so use appropriate radii. 16. Remember, all engineering materials are rubber like. They deflect to some degree under the slightest load and will expand to some degree in the presence of even a lighted match. Everything resonates, even brake pipes. 17. All flexible fuel and oil lines to have screwed ends and armoured flexibles. 18. Drivers feel corners through the seat of their pants, their heels, and above all under their armpits. Ensure seat back is 100% rigid and fits. 19. Gearchange linkages wear, bend and stretch. Provide 100% over-travel clearances in all directions. 20. Provide throttle pedal stop at the pedal and the return spring at the throttle slides; preferably in compression so it still works when broken. 21. Remember, a frantic driver can put 250lbs [113kg] on a pedal or a gearlever. 22. Do not try to exceed 20ft [6.1m] per second in a water pipe, you won’t, neither can you exceed 12ft [3.7] per second for 30/30 oil. 23. 90-degree welded bends, ie 45-degree scarf joints, reduce flow by 5% even if you remove internal nuggets. Double cut-and-shut, ie 2 x 22.5-degrees, costs 2%; 4-d radius just ½%. 24. Always specify the size of ball you must be able to roll down a pipe system to ensure adequate flow. 25. Providing oil and fuel tank dipsticks may prevent a lost race through inaccurate consumption checks. 26. Wheel deflections, camber change, and toe-steer required during the no-spring bump test must be specified on suspension data sheets by designer, and countersigned by him when he has seen the test, and a photocopy put into the car’s log book. 27. Car acceptance test includes proving that the fuel system draws down to one pint from 5 gallons whilst running at least at 90% of the test circuit record time. 28. Don’t invent new oil tanks, use the ones proved to work. Remember, the fluid that comes out of the oil coolers may look like oil, but it contains 25% by volume of air at least. 29. Air leaks on the suction side of the oil pump destroy one engine per race. Keep Duckworth poor. 30. Brakes recuperate better with a head of fluid above the master cylinder. Low mount the cylinder with a high, separate reservoir, with a big enough pipe. And don’t forget the scent spray. Always pressure bleed. 31. Air in motion is the best heat insulator. 32. If the airbox is working, there is a load of 150lbs inside it and it will bulge or blow off if un-securely fastened. If un-securely fastened and it doesn’t blow off, it doesn’t work. 33. You cannot change the basic laws of nature; no one has yet. Let Newton, Charles, Boyle, Hooke and Bernoulli rest in peace. 34. Lightening holes should be the last resort of the designer. The most effective way of weight saving is not to start with it. 35. Measured over the wheelbase, one axle restrained and lifting one corner of the opposite axle, torsional stiffness of the complete structure must exceed 2500 foot lbs [3456 Nm] per degree. The variation in stiffness per foot of wheelbase must not exceed +/- 10% or 15% between two adjacent sections otherwise fatigue failures are likely. 36. Keep suction lines, as short and straight and simple as possible; no rubber elbows at pump inlets. 37. If there is no other way to join two components together than with bolts, remember they work by stretching between .003” and .005” [0.076mm and 0.13mm] per inch length. Make sure they can do, even if you have to provide a waisted section to keep the local stretching near the elastic limit of the material. 3% nickel is best. 38. Although titanium is 70% the weight and 1000% the cost of high grade steel, it is 50% more resilient and 1000% more gall sensitive. Use it with care, after you have assessed maraging steel which strength for strength is also 70% of the weight of high grade steel, 200% the price and just as rigid. 39. Corner weight tolerances +/- 2%. Enter in the car’s log book. 40. The deflection of the lowest part of the wheel rim, relative to the tub centre line should not exceed static corner weight/2000 inches [CW/50.8m] when 1g cornering load is applied. Neither should the camber change by more than 20 minutes of a degree during this test. 41. All systems must be flow tested before the car is started. Flows required must be marked on system’s drawings. A bucket and stop watch is quick and accurate. Eg fuel system must flow 250 pints hour with 100psi pressure. 42. Keep a pair of every driver’s shoes, or sole patterns, suitably labeled in DO [the design office]. 43. Remember cars will run with transducers on suspension travel, throttle slides, strain gauges on wishbones and wing mountings, and “black boxes with invertors”. Bear in mind without compromising design. 44. Always weigh the car before and after paint, including sign writing. Weight increase not to exceed 0.5%. 45. Racing cars get out of line. Always provide and prove 30 degrees of lock so drivers can get them back. Saves one shunt per year. 46. Always measure spring frequencies against specification after no-spring bump tests. Designer enters results in log book. 47. All log book entries signed legibly and dated. 48. Operations will not accept, neither will we offer them a car without a log book, which will show no-spring bump tests, toe curves, corner weights, flow tests, tilt rig test results, and contain data sheets. Losing the log book is a capital offence. ACBC: 29:1:70

Weavie Make sure to take up Rogers offer. You won't get better advice anywhere....

The rear crank bearing cap is sealed in place to prevent leakage into the bellhousing. It could be that this seal has failed. It's an awkward job to do, sealing vertical and horizontal faces at the same time so perhaps I didn't do the job well enough. In any event, the engine is going to have to come out again.I have the time and the tools, the enthusiasm seems to be faltering though It'll be fine once I get going....

Front crank seal looks fine, no sign of oil.it's definitely not blowing backwards as the sump is dry. I fear a poor seal on an old crank( it did have witness mark where the old seal had rubbed) A new crank is not preferred , does anyone know of a way of reclaiming a crank (metal spray, sleeveing )

Thanks Andrew,that's obvious now I come to think about it.. I haven't looked under the car yet but high pressure would affect the front seal I think and if that leaked and blew back along the sump ....I can see into the bellhousing with a camera so I'll check later and as the oil pump and it's seal are going to be replaced that should sort out any problems at the front end. Engine breaths into the dry sump tank and that goes to a catch tank which was dry. Gearbox also breaths into a catch tank as does the diff

Yes,but has it damaged the seal, or did it just blow by?

Yes. Presumably dripped down from the bell housing

First proper trackday for 3(?) years at Loheac on Friday. I installed my spare engine for the day after I had skimmed the block to eliminate frequent head gasket problems. The only other work that I did on it was to replace one oil control ring which I managed to break during reassembly (oh, and all new bearings of course) The car ran very well and I genuinely surprised myself with my eventual speed after such a long layoff. A really enjoyable day. However, the day ended when my oil pressure soared ( nearly 100 psi at one point). It flickered back to normal and was obviously the pressure relief valve sticking. I'm told that this occasionally happens with vx engines but I've never experienced it before. To add to that, my low pressure warning light flickered on occasion (there are some very tight corners). Pressure returned to normal and no nasty noises. I did have to top up the oil more than I expected although I could have underfilled it at home ....not sure .... Taking the car off the trailer revealed a significant (engine) oil patch on the floor. Changing the oil pump is a no brainier which I can do with the engine in the car, but to check/replace rear crank seal is engine out. Convince me that it's not necessary ..... (if you can)

Anyone know the size or have a spare available?

1990 cross flow and I had intermittent misfires over quite a long period. Eventually it dumped me by the roadside in France. I eventually discovered that the Faston connectors to the back of the alternator had oxidised and that was the cause. Apparently the wiring to the rear of the alternator is part of the ignition feed. Worth a look and easy to fix just clean them up

Different spring rates are available for the five speed box and I guess are also available for the six speed. Speak with Steve perks s p components or road and race...

Can you move the steering rack sideways and then re adjust the steering arms to centralise the steering?

My solution which is proven over many years is to dispense with the dzus fasteners and fit a spring hook (the type fitted to the front of the bonnet). The spring is fastened to the centre of the front horizontal chassis tube and the hook is pop riveted to the nose cone. Removal and reattachment by feel only no need to stoop to see

A couple of strips of gaffer tape across the bottom of the rad worked for me when I needed it. Easy to fit and remove

Wear your suit. You never know when you need the protection.I've never been conscious of any sideways looks at suited individuals whatever their capability. have a great day !

If you are confident in the car I would suggest the intermediate/expert session. Drivers in this group are usually more predictable in their lines and braking. Once you have become comfortable with the track geography you should be ok. The big difference from sprinting etc is that you must keep a strong eye on your mirrors and obviously comply with the overtaking rules. I advise carefully noting the track exit. The first time I was on track I had to stay out more laps than I wanted to because I hadn't spotted the exit . It got very uncomfortable!

If your temperatures are ok as you say, you don't really need an alloy rad. They're lighter and look good if that's important to you.

Reverse the male ball in the anti roll bar and check clearances.

Fit male parts to the holes that you are likely to use. You can then extract the locking clip from the joint, pop it off the male and refit it to one of the other males you have added refitting the locking clip of course no

I'd use Viton, plenty of sheet available on eBay and cut one out

Call Radtech, they'll advise

New superlatives needed......!

I'm sure Arch Motors would make one for you...