Richard Price

Rob, What camera are you using? I suspect the apparent movement is something to do with the cameras image stabilisation. (If the camera were loose, there would be much more movement!)

John, I had a batch of parts laser cut by https://fractory.com/ I had various different parts cut including wheel speed trigger wheels for both front and rear wheel speeds, and a few other unrelated parts, all cut from the same sheet of 1.5mm mild steel sheet. Most of the cost is actually in putting a sheet of steel on the machine. If I'd just wanted two parts, the cost would have been about £85 inc delivery. I ended up having 25 parts cut in total for just under £90 delivered. The trigger wheels I had cut all have sixteen teeth, and have an OD of around 104mm once folded (each tooth is folded and the sensor mounted at 90° to the shaft). The rear wheel speed trigger wheels are actually designed to be mounted on the inner end of the drive shaft, with sensors mounted on brackets off the side of the diff. The sensors I'm using have a sensing range of 2.5mm, so are much less sensitive to adjustment to those that Caterham supply, so much less susceptible to mechanical damage through being set too close to their target, or not seeing the target by being too far from the target (maybe due to a flexing bracket?). https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/proximity-sensors/1646098/?relevancy-data=7365617263685F636173636164655F6F726465723D31267365617263685F696E746572666163655F6E616D653D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D626572267365617263685F6C616E67756167655F757365643D656E267365617263685F6D617463685F6D6F64653D6D61746368616C6C267365617263685F7061747465726E5F6D6174636865643D5E2828282872737C5253295B205D3F293F285C647B337D5B5C2D5C735D3F5C647B332C347D5B705061415D3F29297C283235285C647B387D7C5C647B317D5C2D5C647B377D29292924267365617263685F7061747465726E5F6F726465723D31267365617263685F73745F6E6F726D616C697365643D59267365617263685F726573706F6E73655F616374696F6E3D267365617263685F747970653D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D424552267365617263685F77696C645F63617264696E675F6D6F64653D4E4F4E45267365617263685F6B6579776F72643D3136342D36303938267365617263685F6B6579776F72645F6170703D31363436303938267365617263685F636F6E6669673D3026&searchHistory=%7B%22enabled%22%3Atrue%7D

In reply to post #5 That is why I recommended the Startech device. I had tried various USB to RS232 adaptors with limited success, but found the Startech ICUSB232D worked reliably on my Win7Pro 32bit laptop when using Easimap 5.5 to upload/download from/to 967's

RJ, I've successfully used a laptop running Win7pro 32bit with Easimap5.5 to a 967. However, I only found success once I'd found a USB to RS232 adaptor that worked..... I found this "StarTech" device provided stable coms :- https://www.startech.com/en-gb/cards-adapters/icusb232d

Neil, I think it was a 967bc474 that I worked of a coule of years ago. I think 967bc47a.ec2 worked for us. Do you have 967bc47a.ec2, if not, message your email address, and I'll send it over.

I measured up a few tripode drive shafts a few months ago to make up some trigger wheels for traction control. The rings I had laser cut at 72.6mm diameter fit all of the shafts I've tried them on.

Kimble, Do you have a soldering iron? If so, the bits to make a coms lead would only cost a few quid! pinouts here:- https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/wp/wp/pdf/MBE_Coiled_Mapping_Lead_Pin-out.pdf You may also have to add three pins to the ECU connector and a short lead with another female 9 way D type connector if it is not already present. See ECU pinouts here:- https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/wp/wp/pdf/MBE967_Pin_Out_Information.pdf You need pins 6, 14, & 32 (ground, receive, & transmit) I've had limited success with cheap USB to RS232 converters, but found this StarTech one to work well:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111598110253?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 You'll need Easimap release 5:- https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/easimap%205%20software-easimap-5-software.html Note:- Easimap 5 is a 32bit program and does not work in 64bit Windows.

Geoff, The tyres with the 69H & 78H rating also have labels that state:- "For Regulation EC1222/2009 purposes only - This tyre is designed to be fitted only to vehicles intended exclusively for racing." They are specifically designed as a wet weather racing tyre.

Another option could be S T Motorsport. https://www.stmotorsport.net/

It's white with a black tracer rather than black/white.

'just a note on the Caterham supplied lever AP racing bias valve (AP part No CP3550-13). The lever has 7 positions, but, looking at the specification (https://apracing.com/cdn/drawings/886-cp3550-13cd.pdf ), only positions 1 and 2 are likely to have any effect..... To understand the graph showing input and output pressure, you have to have an idea of what pressures you're likely to see... I've been datalogging brake pressure for several years and rarely see pressures much higher than 30bar on sprints and hillclimbs. You're unlikely to see pressures greater than 30bar in road use.

I would concentrate on making the rears work better rather than reducing the effectiveness of the fronts by installing a bias valve in the front! Rear pads with a higher coefficient of friction would be a better move. (But, front to rear bias is always going to be a little bit of miss with a custom bespoke set up unless whoever designed it really knew what they were doing......)

Ray, Many other folks seem to manage OK on ZZS's....... Maybe its not the tyres.......?

Hi Chris, Watch a few videos, and arrive in plenty of time to allow to walk the course. I'd be happy to walk the course with you if you like?

Thanks for the interest folks. From being concerned that the day didn't look financially viable on Monday with just four cars, the day is now provisionally full, with Aled having taken the last place. If anyone drops out, I'll keep a reserves list in the order that I've been contacted here or by message/mail.

Anyone?

I have a provisional booking of Curborough for a private test day on Wednesday 25th August where we can run up to ten cars. If I go ahead and confirm the booking, would anyone like to join me?

I'm not actually using RT supplied sensors, but have been successfully recording wheel speeds for around ten years in my DL1. Do you have RT supplied sensors already, or are you looking for an alternative?

Alan, you have BM regarding an omission from the published results....

Yes! Make one yourself.... I bought a scrap EU3 of Ebay for around a tenner, then cut the housing open, unsoldered the connector, then linked the required pins to the ECU connector.

I've just had a look at this..... 9.2.6 was deleted from 2019 The printed copy of the 2021 blue book states:- However, the online copy (which I understand includes any updates or corrections from the printed copy) states:- https://www.motorsportuk.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/2021-03-08-motorsport-uk-yearbook-2021-p349-359-specific-regulations-sprints-hill-climbs-and-drag-racing-s.pdf

Longy, there May be a slightly better choice of tyres available in 13", but the performance gained will be tiny in comparison to experience of the venues and confidence that comes with that. I'd say to save your money and compete on whatever you currently have (unless they are not included on list 1a)

Longy, 1) Yes! (but, narrow track with standard springs and dampers work well enough!) 2) there isn't a "control tyre" as such, but Yokohama A539's are very popular.(whilst the regulations allow upto 205 wide, most folks run 185's)

Roger, you should have blatmail messages x 2 (not with good news! :-( )

Rob, yes. Plenty of folks look to arrive the night before. "clean themselves" 'not at Barbon!!