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Richard Price

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Everything posted by Richard Price

  1. Richard Price
    Shaun, We've recalibrated Tom's Stack dash following refitting his standard (2001) tank, but, as we added fuel 5lit, at a time, I also disconnected the sender and measured the resistance at each stage. Using a 100 ohm pull up resistor, I've calculated the values in the following RT screen shot.
  2. Richard Price
    Mark, You should have blatmail
  3. Richard Price
    Shaun, When you entered the X & Y values that produced the equation :- Y = ([(285.28 * (* ^ 3)) - (1471.89 * (× ^ 21) + (2529.77 * )] - 1439.34 Did you save a copy of those values? if so, what were they?
  4. Richard Price
    Andrew reading small voltage changes shouldn't be a problem for the RT dash. I'm using a DL1club data logger that uses 0-25v analog inputs, and currently have a brake pressure sensor with an output of 0.5 to 4.5v for 0-250 bar. However, the maximum pressure I normally see when competing is significantly less than 50bar, but we can still see even the lightest touch of the brake pedal. I'm Sure the DL1 and dash2 share very similar technology.
  5. Richard Price
    From the RT "VAR and CAN manager", for the appropriate analog input, in "sensor type", select "custom", then "generate an equation from a table", where the "Y" column is your volume of fuel added, and "X" is your voltage reading. (but, the RT software does not seem to like "0" as the lowest "Y" value :-( ). some thing like this.....
  6. Richard Price
    Shaun, rather than adding any of the above devices, why not wire as RT suggest (Using the regulated 5V from the dash2 at the 5V reference), then fill the tank from empty, adding say 5lit at a time, measuring the voltage at each point, then add those values (litres and volts) into the RT configuration. Its not linear, but you don't need to know the resistance, you only need to know the voltage at each step.
  7. Richard Price
    CR, 'may be worth asking prescott directly. Try an email to comps@bugatti.co.uk
  8. Richard Price
    James, 'sounds like a sticky injector not closing to me. A single injector signal is very unlikely to be operated for a little longer than the remaining three. Digital electronics don't tend to go a little bit wrong, they either work or they don't. The same logic is going to be used to time all four injectors. have you phyisically removed the injectors, and moved the injectors to different cylinders?
  9. Richard Price
    'posted on behalf of a fellow hillclimber:- Well known and important Caterham Blackbird DeDion. Built by Kenrick motors specifically for hillclimbing. Chassis prepared by Caterham for the Blackbird engine. Car nicely put together by this highly respected team and a very successful car and still extremely competitive. The car is in super condition and any inspection is welcome. Starts on the button and is easy to run. Viewing Cheshire £18500 Contact Ash Mason 07983 559365
  10. Richard Price
    John. Yes it could, and using pretty cheap hardware. However, you'd then need to program it. My home made shift lights are based around a programmable Arduino board (about a fiver from china). My shift light code measures the frequency of the tacho signal and illuminates LEDs at preset values. The Arduino could be programmed to drive an output from a programmable signal generator having applied whatever factor you wish to apply deliver a different frequency to the input frequency. However, in the OPs application, why would you bother......
  11. Richard Price
    That's interesting.... For reference, that is different to earlier cars. My 2002 K series cars tacho is (roughly) calibrated to work with 2 pulses per rev (from the MEMS ECU), so 4000rpm is 133.33Hz.
  12. Richard Price
    What does it matter if the tacho over reads a little? My (2002) tacho seems to over read by around 400rpm throughout the Rev range. (When I compare what it says compared to what my data logger and shift lights suggest at high rpm, and online to my DTA ECU at idle) but why does it matter if the numbers are not that accurate? Surely it's there to give an idea rather than accurate numbers. I seriously doubt a new Caterham tacho will be any different.
  13. Richard Price
    DTA SWin software is required to communicate with DTA S-series ECUs https://www.dtafast.co.uk/download_files/PC_Software/DTASwinSetup%20v90.31.zip plus a cable like this:- https://www.dtafast.co.uk/dta_products/serial-cable-2/ (or, see the bottom of this page to make your own cable http://www.quantums.info/injection.htm ) and a USB to serial adapter (preferably with a Prolific chipset) - https://www.dtafast.co.uk/dta_products/usb-to-rs232-adapter/ DTA normally reply quickly to email questions, and there is a fairly active and helpful forum here :- http://www.dtaforum.com/
  14. Richard Price
    Just seen this on another forum http://www.uphillracers.com/showthread.php?t=20106
  15. Richard Price
    Thanks for the replies. Karl @ Emerald sent some files last night, so I think he's sorted thank you.
  16. Richard Price
    A friend has bought a second hand Emerald K3 to use on an EU2 1600 supersport. To check that the ECU is working, I'm looking for a map and configuration file. Can anyone help with a base map?
  17. Richard Price
    A point to note when fitting DS to a VVC or Xpower 140. The VVC and 140 Xpower cars use a different RHS engine mount that lowers the engine in the chassis so that the plenum (and maybe the VVC mech?) clear the bonnet, so any DS kit needs to include the correctly modified RHS engine mount. (I know of two cars where the plenum has worn a hole in the bonnet due to this issue)
  18. Richard Price
    Yes, for the few rounds that I plan to do this year, I'll run in class 4. I've swapped cams, fitted TB's, and a DTA ECU, and had a very pleasantly surprising session on the Northampton motorsport rollers last week. I had previously contemplated having two maps. One to get the best results I could, to use on the Midland hillclimb championship events, and another capped at 155bhp to run class 3. However, after the first run, capping to 155bhp became academic, producing much more than I'd imagined. We then experimented with trumpet lengths and timing, and improve torque through out the usable rev range. I won't be anywhere near the class 4 power limit, but it looks like it should be a very significant step up from the spec that I've run since 2014.
  19. Richard Price
    Paul, At Prescott, the driver that runs out of batch, runs after the main batch.
  20. Richard Price
    Maybe the owner needs to remove the cam covers, and turn the engine over, and work it out from watching the sequence the valves are operated.
  21. Richard Price
    'another one here.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125735514391?hash=item1d466bb117:g:EcsAAOSwV4tj0Auu&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoCZF5UDaRIO8v15tQW5xsBrOWm506U10I9hasH6JHZGx9sBhcYj44%2B3SgXKfCUFs7EWMD%2BnI%2BFzH3pZK7WtlmTBhrV32SOgu7Kp3MwNF5T3iS59H7287mtKtvGeFy9dZK65%2FfrDVK1ce6uV5JSGhqgzX%2FekiUYmsNOZbHjNEkeRV7V8Y9o2UvtaQXZVJDNPpMOonnwO1N3xWpxiofDtsDpA%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7aL3s-8YQ
  22. Richard Price

    Springs

    Richard Price replied to JeWe's topic in TechTalk

    Standard rear springs are progressive. From memory, something line 110 - 130 - 200lbs/in. But, in the normal operating range, you'll run in the 130 section most of the time.
  23. Richard Price

    Springs

    Richard Price replied to JeWe's topic in TechTalk

    Standard front springs are normally 150lbs/in. I'm sure there will be plenty of folks who have a set having "upgraded" to stiffer springs. If you're after a more compliant ride, I'd try a set of softer springs. However, you may also need a set of spring retainers, as the 150 springs are 1.9" ID, where the 250's are 2.25".
  24. Richard Price
    Hi Rob, if you're "just around the corner" from Nick, then you're not going to be far from me either! (I'm about 400yds from Nick!). 'don't have a car that I want to sell though :-)
  25. Richard Price
    No. The spade connector provides power to the engine loom. The engine loom includes the MFRU, which has the relay for the starter motor in it, so one core of the 14pin powers the starter relay from the car loom. The oil pressure and coolant temperature sender wiring is included in the engine loom, and go to the car via the 14 pin connector, along with the tacho from the ECU. The immobiliser is part of th car loom, and enables the ECU, again via the 14 pin connector. The fuel pump relay is also included in the MFRU, which is fed back to the car via the 14 pin connector. There is also the alternator light wiring that also passes through the 14 pin connector (without which, the alternator will not be excited, so won't charge!)
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