6speedmanual

Nope, just the diff.

As you have no LSD and you are already experiencing rear wheel lift or wheel spin on the inner wheel on turns a rear ARB will not help at all. Setting the rear trailing arms to lower mounting hole will reduce roll-oversteer geometry changes and mean that the car should pull corning force (generate required slip angle) with less yaw angle. Will help in left-right or right-left transitions. It may help it feel as it it has a quicker turn in too. Experiment with it. It's such an easy change it's a classic for you to do a suck it and see and learn about the effect and feel. 5/8" bar is quite a stiff one but making the front of the car do the roll resistance will potentially keep the car more level and allow the load across the rear axle to stay more evenly shared between the rear wheels, improving grip and traction (reduce inner wheel spin). Stiffening front ARB generally tends to increase understeer but you may be able to counter this with more negative camber, a sniff more castor (but not too much as it makes steering heavier) and maybe a sniff of toe-out to sharpen turn-in feel (if not actual total grip). Going from 9/16 up to 5/8 is quite a big jump with 50% increase in torsional stiffness and therefore load shift across front of car. But again this is an easy thing to have a play with. What FARB do you have now? Have fun! Peter

Before draining gearbox, make sure you can shift filler plug. (otherwise very difficult to refill*scratchchin*) Diff does not have drain plug so syphon out or use suction pump extractor. Peter

Have you tried getting one from Titan? Or you could get one made by a machine shop (probably from scratch as a one-off for the retail price dreamed up by CC). Peter

I don't think you'll get away with wide trackrods before you've fitted the wide wishbones but I thought from a previous thread you ordered a kit. The std rods with adaptors look plain clunky. Peter

Tom, If you are making an oil dipstick, the equivalent distances of the max/min on the cap dipstick from the bottom of the d/sump tank are: Max mark 10" up from bottom of tank Min mark 9" up from bottom of tank When dropping your dipstick in, make sure it gets to the bottom of the d/s tank (inside face of blue plate) because theres a small lip at one side which it can rest on giving an erroneous measurement.Thick welding wire with a couple of notches filed in is ideal. Very thick rod (eg 6mm like mine) is bad cos it drags out loads of oil when dipping, so keep surface area of the rod to a minimum. (Oh, and make sure the stick is long enough thatv there's a bit sticking out the top of the tower when you drop irt in!! )

Mankee Just take them off - the ultimate weight saving! Lose the metal the rivet and the clunky pvc piping. You can fill the holes by putting a bit of tape over then fill from the back with silicone, clear or black whichever matches wings best. When sikicone set, peel off tape. I did mine years ago and they've been fine since. Peter

Gorgeous! I have already. TomB, why don't you buy them?

Hmmm. Interesting discussion. I too would like to know if the cap was replaced before changing to Evans. Is a solution being sought to an overheating problem which is not actually present? (ref JK's comments on the temperatures attained). Correctly functioning cap could have fixed it. Whilst I am sure cooling systems can run on many different liquids/mixtures including Evans, each has pros and cons. But fundamentally a motor such as yours Tom shoukd be able to run on conventional coolant and system. Therefore I suggest some issue not fully resolved (eg the cap not containing boiling). Use of Evans which has one characteristic of high boiling point at atmospheric pressure is an expensive way of masking what may be a simple and easily rectified fault. Peter

Do you have a rear anti roll bar? Peter

Do you have a rear anti roll bar? Peter

Getting the front geometry right is more important than lowering for lowering sake. Slightly taller ground clearance (14" wheels) less detrimental than having your roll centre all wrong. Level lower wishbones is your friend. Peter

No, but in principle it is a good idea, if you are prepared to invest in a rolling road dyno tune to set it up. Peter

Go Aero!!! :D

Go Aero!!!

I would drain and refill! By the time you have faffed about for a top up, if indeed any top up is required, you may aswell drain first (the easier part of the job) After once leaving my gearbox oil 2 years I was surprised how much darkening and metallic matter was apparent. I change my 'box and diff oil once every year now. In the overall scale of things the cost is not very great, it's a good chance to inspect magnetic drain plugs for any other issues. (amusingly, not on a 7, I once found a ball bearing and part of race cage on a mag plug on a box which was apparrently working fine!) Peter

Agree with above. Like concept and operation of such - Peugeot use a neat installation in oil filter mounting. Just asking however, what is the reason and the goal you have in mind to introduce this extra weight / complexity / cost to your 7? Peter

As above. Reason this is the way is because (iirc) the pinion does not fit through hole in side skin. Of any car I've ever worked on, 7 has the easiers rack remove/refit. Whilst rebuilding, are you getting wide track trackrods fitted so you don't have to use converters? When reassembling, as soon as rack attached to spaceframe centre the rack to the frame. Then refit the column and stg wheel. This gives you the correct "straight ahead reference point for the rest of your front suspension and steering geometry set up. Peter

Harness continuity check from sensor plugs to ECU? Can the fault code be cleared? Does the fault immediately occur again? Is it possible to discern when driving below 5750rpm whether vvc is doind anything or is it just stuck on one setting? HTH Peter

Gearbox 75w80 GL4. Comma or Redline MTL Diff EP80w90 GL5 or LS80w90 GL5 if running LSD. Comma. http://www.commaoil.com/passenger-vehicles/products/subcategory/29 http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?product=50204 Peter

Maybe not android specific, but when on my phone I cannot access any buttons for linky or smilies.

(sorry no linky, the new forum STILL not providing this facility, nor line space layout from android device) (carr return) Peter

Anyone tried a set of these tyres yet? http://www.nankangtyre.co.uk/performance/motorsport/ns-2r Interested in any feedback/discussion. Peter

Steve, They look interesting. Did you use the ones with the integrated stud? Female onto the original link bar? Like the rubber hood too. Peter

Brass nuts good for that application too. If correctly tightend shouldn't need any locking device, compound, washers. As the ru bber is notorious for failing, a loop of coathangar wire through bracket and exhaust lug will save your pipe being mullered on the riad if the bobbin fails.