paul jacobs
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Everything posted by paul jacobs
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personal email now re-sent.
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Hi Malc, I think I have just sent you an uncompleted email by mistake, sorry. I don't suppose you have any tighter wing stays by chance? What else have you got left now? I could be interested in your heat shield if not sold. All the best, Paul.
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Hi, I could be interested in your reverser box, if you still have it. I think it is a bit expensive at your asking price, would you be prepared to lower it somewhat? If so, could you give me an idea of what you would be prepared to accept? What engine did you have this mated to and in which chassis? I have an R1 engined DD car, and although I have recently bought an electric reverser to fit this winter, a box might work better. Look forward to hearing back. Best wishes, Paul Jacobs
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I'm after a pair of good condition front cycle wings to replace mine which are cracking around the fixings. Black would be perfect, Kawasaki lime green even more perfect, Carbon superb, otherwise any colour and I will get them sprayed. I could also do with a pair of "race" front wing stays which allow the wings to be mounted closer to the tyres instead of waving around in the air 3" away. Thanks in advance. Paul
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WTB: Original Owner's Manual and Shop Manual for '84 Crossflow
paul jacobs replied to smross's topic in For Sale
Thanks for an idea of values. It is worth getting my old manual down for a look. I built my first X/F in around 1986/7 so I have probably got the build book for it. I also seem to remember getting a VHS tape as well, could that be of interest too? -
WTB: Original Owner's Manual and Shop Manual for '84 Crossflow
paul jacobs replied to smross's topic in For Sale
Are these early manuals worth much money, if so, what sort of value does one out on a pristine one? -
Thank you to all who gave advice. I have ordered a set of MGB533 M1144 pads and will report back when I have had a chance to assess them. I found them at a mob called Godspeed Motorsport and paid £34.33 incl. P&P, if anyone else is after some. I should have mentioned that the car is a little lighter on the front end because it is fitted with a bike engine/gearbox combo, (from an R1), so this may cause a problem or two, but I can always put the originals back if necesary, but they just don't have the bite I am looking for.
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An old topic I know, and plenty in the archives, but I cannot find anything definitive as a way of upgrading the standard front brake pads. Maybe there isn't any way and I will have to go for a set of AP racing calipers and discs, Is there a pad which really improves the front end braking using the standard calipers and discs? I don't want to waste money on pads and find they don't significantly make any improvements. BTW, having tried EBC pads, I wouldn't touch them with a barge pole, so please don't suggest them.
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I am after a headrest, any condition or colour, does anyone have one surplus to requirements please?
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Are you sure it was a ZF, not a Quaife? I believe I'm right in saying that the Quaife doesn't rotate both wheels the same way, but acts like an open diff.
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Message sent.
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I do still have them, but I'm just about to send some pictures off to Chris who has first shout on them. If you would like pictures too, just BM me a message with your personal email address.
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Hi Chris, yes they are still available, if you BM me your email address, I will take some pictures and send them on,so you can see what they are like, or you are welcome to come and have a look if you can get to Taunton. Paul.
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Thanks Ian that would be great. BM sent.
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Just south of Taunton, do you ever get down this way? We could meet up somewhere, maybe at Taunton Deane services if you are on the M5?
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Hi Ian, if you still have the gauge and sender , can I buy it please? If you can include p&P in the price that would be great. Please BM me details of how to make the payment etc. Thanks Paul.
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I know it is like looking for rocking horse sh1te, but just in case anyone has an unwanted set of wide track wishbones, my car is a 2001 ex academy chassis.
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Thanks for the bump steer comments. I did note your thread and how you were tackling it.l'm starting with the rake, getting the toe right, then will space the rack up until the track rods are level, then see where I go if it is still bad. Maybe actually start to measure things!
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The dampers are Bilsteins, as supplied when the car was new, but to me look too long. If I run the correct rake, the back end is too high and looks ridiculous, but it is the bump steer issue that I am really trying to eradicate. i've had a brief run with the stiffer springs, and they aren't half as bad as I feared, quite easy to live with on bumpy roads. I will continue to play around, rack spacers are next on the agendas, do Caterham or anyone else sell them, or do I have to make them up myself? Simon, I did send you an email, but it may have gone into your junk filter. Do you have slightly less expensive dampers in your range?
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If you are down in the Westcountry, there are several large cut price stores called Trago Mills, they have front and rear stick on plates as well as the numbers to go with them, all very reasonably priced too. Otherwise you might try a caravan retailer, sometimes they will keep front plates as well as the rears.
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If you find a local machine shop, they will put in a groove or two. I paid a rather high 60.00 for 2 grooves in each, but the point is that if you drop the platform down to a lower groove, it will bottom out, or at the very least sit on the bumpstop rubbers, which means the spring isn't working properly. Anyway, it seems there is no easy answer, I am putting on considerably stronger springs, to compensate for less movement, so when it is all back to together will report back here on whether it still works - or not.......
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I've already moved the spring seat down a groove, ( which I also had to have machined Dave), and this is the point,, the further the springs are moved down, the less movement there is left for the piston to work, and it then virtually or actually sits on the bump stops. Have a look at yours Dave, and see if that is the case as well?
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Hi Alan, it doesn't necessarily need to be 120, that's' more of a target, but I think I do need to drop the front so that it's lower than the back, and because of the length of the shock absorber body, it is difficult to do this without running out of compression, before the bump stops come into play. I would have thought there should be at least a couple of centimetres of rod showing? The Bilsteins do not have the extension pieces, but appear to be bog standard 2001 issue. The wheels are 13" but I don't feel that is really very important given the difficulty of getting the nose down more, otherwise the back end is stupidly high.
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Thank you both. Jonathan, the car has never been wide track, and as far as I'm aware the Bilsteins are standard issue circa 2000. However the old thread is interesting. Dave, I'm not worried about the sump clearance as their is so little below the chassis that it isn't a problem, but getting the rake right is difficult. I can raise the rear, but then it will look ridiculously high, to get the differential required. Previously the nose was up in the air!
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I'm currently re-setting the ride height of my 2001 ex-academy S3, and whilst it is common knowledge that a good height is fr. 120mm and rear 135mm, the difficulty I'm having is getting the front low enough, because the body of the Bilstein shock abosrber is too long, in other words, when adjusted with the spring seat platform and the correct length springs, as low as it will go, which is about 155mm measured in the middle of the front suspension arm bolt head, it is riding on the bump stops. It seems to need a shorter shock abosrber, but these things are standard, and at this moment I don't want to shell out hundreds for new ones of the correct length. Does anyone have any suggestions? BTW, I'm not worried about sump clearance as I do not have one that hangs below the chassis rails.
