paul jacobs

Yep, I've just done exactly the same as roger on my flared wing '93 car. My car is black, so black dome headed bolts don't look too bad or obvious down the side, and the small amount of marking where the old wings were touching the body sides also T-Cut back very succesfully. I used the existing headlight/wing bracket, by cutting the square section that supports the wing off, at the lamp mounting base plate, looks fine after respraying with satin black aerosol. The biggest problem is the bottom of the cycle wing hitting the body, as testified too by everyone else. I haven't attended to this yet, [done the easy bit first, as you do...] I understood that the original cycle wing racks had jubilee clips on the end of the rack to restrict the movement - I will investigate this sometime, could be a lot cheaper than one of the beautifull looking ali. racks, if it works. By the way, I've glued my cycle wings onto the brackets with Gripfill, which I've succesfully used previously to keep a pair of flared wings on, and when I removed those, I had to cut them off with a stanley knife, I have high hopes, but only did it last weekend, so before putting all my strength on them, wanted to give them a chance to cure properly! Apart from the aesthetics, which are down to personal taste, the pros and cons are more water chucked up your right armpit, but less windage, and easier access to the engine, and easier removal of the bonnet, it's also a never ending source of facination, watching your front wheels bobbing up and down as you drive. Do it, good luck.

Nope, they may have made a 4 speed version too, with the side change mechanism, but I've personally bought and used a 5 speeder from the 3.0 l V6, so I know they are around in abundance, you shouldn't need to pay more than £50-£75 either. Have a word with Brian Hill of BGH geartec or SPC who advertise in the Mag.

Sorry, not Fast Arnie, wasn't looking carefully enough, should have replied to Fast Westie.

I don't think your completely right there Arnie. It's been a while since I last looked for g/boxes, but I seem to remember being told that the earlier 3.0 litre V6 engined Grannies/Crappies used the long shaft box, the later 2.8 engined cars used essentially the same box, but with the front end modified to stop one of the shafts drilling its way through, this is obviously a better box, but harder to find. The earlier box is quite usable, but the indent in the front needs filling in to stop oil finding its way out, I've always found a suitably sized bit of ply smothered in gasket silicon sealant works just fine.

As Keith said, if it works, stick with it. I forgot to mention that I had a brief flirtation in the early days of my engine,['92] with an unsprung paddle clutch which was quite simply horrible in any kind of slow road situation, and wore out after my trip to the Swiss meet and back, say, no more than 2500 miles, causing some fairly severe scoring to the flywheel. Really, save your money and go for a slightly uprated but essentially standard item, the others are nothing but trouble and expense.

I'm a mechanical illiterate, but no Roger, I don't thinkk your are missing anything. I've only got a 7.5 inch single plate in my engine. I had it refaced with a "heavy duty" [whatever that is] clutch material, and use it with a bog standard pressure plate and original cable operation. I've been running it since about 1994, competing regularly, [dropping the clutch at 5K revs.] and about 10k + road miles, using a lightened flywheel done at my local engineering shop, the engine was putting out 245bhp and around 180lb ft when new, although down to around 220bhp now, when it was on Dave Walkers RR last summer, and I was using fairly sticky road tyres. I've had no problems TO DATE [rapidly crosses fingers and toes] so I don't think that fancy twin plate clutches are necesary, but desirable maybe?

I've had one of Steve Broughtons engine since around '94, it's now in it's third home [a 21 now] and it's given me excellent service. SBD are only a small company, virtually a one man band, but they do seem to know what they are doing, having said that I think that all businesses have customers in which everything seems to go wrong, and SBD are no exception. As Graham F. says, they are probably more customer focused now, possibly since Arnies bad experience!

If you happen to come upon a spare stanchion in your search Mat, I'll take it.

If you happen to come upon a spare stanchion in your search Mat, I'll take it.

Does anyone know how much Caterham would've charged for the stanchion on its own? Now that they've sold out, would it be very difficult for someone who is an engineering student [Mat?] to fabricate a couple in Uni. workshops? If it is an easy and inexpensive job, put me down for one please.

I suppose that that is the nub of the question really. All thing being equal, is it cheaper to source the all new bits seperately or buy the complete kit from the factory?

Waynes question of whether to upgrade his old car or buy a new one got me thinking. [Again] Perhaps I'm losing the point, but is it not possible to build a car to Superlight or 500 spec, but not buying the complete component set from CC, but using the appropriate CBU and then buying the parts you need, either from CC, or other outside suppliers or s/h. Surely you could save a shedload of money doing it this way, and get exactly the car you want, and end up with something like PCs', Arnies, Mike B. or Graham Fords cars, all of which, as far as I know, started life as complete cars, and have been progressivly modified over the years. The only two donwnsides I can see, are that it would be more inconvenient to source the bits indirectly, and when the time came to sell, it couldn't be sold as a pukka Superlight etc. The importance of this would be down to the individual. But the initial capital outlay would be substantially less, and there would be even more satisfaction in having done even more yourself, and lets face it, it isn't exactly a difficult build anyway. [Many thanks Caterham.] Paul

I've always used a couple of old seatbelts, one slung under the bell housing and the other carefully placed around the front and under the sump, they've yet to slip or let go, [rapidly touches head!] even when hefting out my old Vauxhall lump. It also helps enormously if you get the back end of the car a couple of feet up in the air, with front wheels on the ground. Use the engine lift, and wrap your old seat belt around the rollover bar and lift, for a quick easy way. This way, you don't need to hang the engine/box down at such an acute angle to clear the transmission tunnel/bulkhead.

I think that Caterham will be well aware of this failing with the a/r bar, it also happened to one of our local club members on his Vx HPC a couple of years ago. It may only happen on older cars, but if not, then CC need their arses kicked [again?]

Gareth, How old are they and what have they been jetted for previously?

I know Chris, but I'm hoping to get one that is either new or as new. Being black it will show up any imperfections, so If poss. I'm trying to save myself a lot of work in the preperation stage. There appears to be a shortage of glassfibre, is this because it tends to get damaged easily or because everyone keeps any spare parts "just in case"?

Steve & Tazio, Thanks both of you for your replies. At present I'm investigating a moulder of Caterham "style" glass fibre, who supplies the Locost phenominum[sp?] and who purports to sell the same quality at a "considerable" saving. I'll get back to you both if they're no good though.

Yep, I've got a perfectly good X/F engine with about 9000 miles since it was reconditioned. It has a 711M block and a Piper fast road cam. It's still in the car, so can be heard running. If your interested give me a ring on 01823 421748 or e-mail on paulejacobs@hotmail.com

Does anyone have a pair of rear wings and a nosecone they could sell me, that would fit my 1992 DD chassis. Black gel coat would be great, but obviously any other colour would be acceptable. I'm also after a nearside "short" cycle wing and bracket, green preferred. E-mail me at: paulejacobs@hotmail.com Phone me at: 01823 421748 Many thanks, Paul.

Having decided to upgrade my car, I now have my original engine for sale. It was completely reconditioned and rebuilt 9000 miles ago, based on a 711m block, it is bored out to approx, 1650 now, and is fitted with a Piper fast road cam. It has a Caterham supplied shallow sump. It is still in the car, so can be heard running. I would like to keep the twin 40 Webers for my next engine, but other than that, the engine is complete and ready to install, including clutch and flywheel etc. I think that I'd be looking for around £475 for it. Anyone interested. Get back to me on: paulejacobs@hotmail.com, or phone on 01823 421748.

I bought a set of Alpha Weber TBs and ECU some while ago, ostensibly from a written off Cav. I guess the guy couldn't cope with all the extra power! Point is, does anyone have any experience of this set up, and would I still have to go to an Alpha-Weber dealer to set up the mapping if I use non standard cams, which I will almost certainly do? BTW, they are black, does this make them more or less powerfull?

I would not use any supermarket petrol now, unless I was desperate. Some years ago, when I was in the habit of filling up with Sainsburies best, I started getting running problems with the Volkswagen Transporter 2.1 petrol van I owned then. Neither the main dealer or a well known VW specialist could solve the problem, having spent the best part of £500 or more on replacement electronic components, with no success, I filled up one day at a regular [Esso] station, and hey presto, the engine ran perfectly. Was I annoyed? So if anyone is using "cheap" supermarket petrol, take note of my cautionary tale, the one that costs less isn't always the cheapest in the long run. I now stick to Esso, BP, and Shell whenever I can get some. Paul J.