susser

Martin Did you have to machine the caps, Perchance ? (We've just fitted some an we had to.)

There's a bloke with a Westy, not far from you on Station Road. He got CrossFlow Pete's set up a treat. He's a helicopter mechanic by trade and a true Petrolhead. I'll rattle his cage if you like.

Sounds like you might have just done this; "attemted to test the starter by isolating it and applying +ve from a spare charged battery to the terminals - " The easiest (but not neccessarily the safest) way to test a starter's windings is to take a reasonably thick bit of wire from the positive battery terminal to the terminal that has the wire on that goes into the starter's casing. On a pre-engaged starter, that will just kick it over. On an inertia starter (with no piggyback solenoid) it will engage it. Make tis test a very short one. a quick flash across the terminal will tell you whether the windings are open circuit. (5hagged). Wear some gloves and Safety glasses. Not for the faint hearted and I'm sure Health and safety Man will be along in a moment to nail me to the wall. Please feel free to ignore these ramblings at the faster typing more accurate thinkers above have it covered. 😳 Edited by - susser on 23 Mar 2007 08:30:29

I Did wander down the fire lane once, but all the Cat's were on track, and I was stressed for time. ☹️

spent a few moments today at work, enjoying the Caterhams doing the Gold Track day. Any Blatchatters ?.

It's an anti squeal compound; Some pads come with a PTFE shim that does the same job. Once the piston wears/presses through the material then the brakes will squeal again. This will be cured by a (very thin ) coating of Coppaslip or similar (between the pad and piston). The squeal is a sound produced by the brake pad as it makes microscopically small movements whilst in contact with the disc. As these movements are very small, they may be taken up by the "elasticity" of the piston, friction material etc. As the movement builds up and the elastic energy stored in the components builds up, then it will eventually reach the point that it overcomes the friction between the pad and the piston. This causes a very small movement between the two until the forces return to the point where static friction takes over and they stop again. Thia all happens very quickly, in fact at the speed of the frequency of the squeal, although the disc may ring at a harmonic of the frequency. It's exactly the same thing that happens during the buildup and eventing of you common or garden earthquake. only a bit quicker. oright, a lot quicker. kind of stuff. PS Jags used to have a steel ring in a groove around the periphery of the disc. I'm guessing that this was to have the effect of damping out the vibrations as the disc "rang"; it would do the same thing as putting your finger on a bell, for instance. IMHO

As for jacking points; Caterham told me the A frame attachment point in the middle of the DeDion. Book says different. I don't believe the middle of the cross on the front is best as it's being used as a beam. At the side is better as it's the point of a vetical triangle. Caterham said "inboard third of the bottom wishbone. But I guess this is a whole thread hi-jack on it's own.

Peter As I said to Sprog last night (we're doing Snett on Sat and he's got a TVR) "got your towing point sorted then have you ?" "Dunno where it is" "Well we better find out, 'cos the recovery guy probably don't know either" Your point (almost) exactly.

read the handbook ?? I'm the bloke who shakes all the bits out of the box. Puts it all together and finds it's a Food Blender. Pulls it all apart again, finds the instructions, reads them and assembles it, correctly, as a Trolley Jack. As Sprog says "RTFM"

Something wrong with BMW Boston Green then Is there 😔

Grant "We got the garage up to 22 degrees " What a delight it must be to walk into a garage at room temperature, pick up room temperature spanners, work on a room temperature car ,,,,,,,,,,,,etc etc. I bet you even go in the garage in slippers an all. Susser ( garage at slightly below ambient temperature)

My biggest problem with trying to fit my RiF is getting the blinking flip rubber piping to fit/stick. I think the mirrors do only want to sit in one position, as Richard suggests. It's not exactly flat.

Martin Bit of lateral thinking there This bugs in the teeth style seems to be taking off. Bit like clams I suppose. 😬

I'm just in the process of fitting an RiF aeroscreen. I've decided to make those M8 Nyloc nuts captive without the £35 spend on the Caterham bit. I've put a penny washer on an M8 bolt and tightened a nut up against it, folded the penny washer up against a pair of opposing flats so that it makes a kind of "cowboy hat" shape. Tonight, I'm planning to Araldite this together with a larger penny washer to the side skin. It doesn't have to resist much torque, I would hope. If it don't work I'll have to drag the welder out.

I had a non Volvo towbar fitted to my Volvo some years ago. Only a little while ago, when I got my hands on a proper Volvo towbar, did I realise theat the other one had defeated all the impact absorbing aspects of the rear bumper beam etc. I would hope that the new standards would prevent such a poor design from being marketed.

According to my Luxury Shed Calender there is a "National Sit In the Shed Day". Clearly, this needs to be better publicised. One day I'll have a Shed of my own to sit in. My neighbour "Two Sheds Fahy" has got a choice of two. I'm not jealous of course.

Paul I've got a '97 DeDion with some S types which are shot. I've also got a Birthday in the not too distant future. Are these the same fitting do you think. ? Paul.

The trusty Bleed Tee is a common way of letting the air out. Of course, you gotta get the air to come out when it's open which can be achieved in a number of ways. Personally, I release the highest coupling and get a volunteer to pressurise the system by blowing ino the header/expansion tank ( carefull !! it's poison) if the system is cold. If i'm on my own I let the system get hot and pressurise itself and then do it. One air trap with the K system is the top rad header. Air and other gasses will collect here and reduce radiator effectiveness. The same means of pressurisation apply here.

And I'll just add that; Looking for the overtaker at your shoulder, the angle of view with my mirrors is so good that when someone moves out of my drivers mirror he will be just at my shoulder, so the lifesaver look (to my right (your left)) completes the full 360 degree vision. Obviously something as big as a bike is even easier to spot.

Alaskossie No sweat there matey. Nifty's thought of that too. See here andhere QED

Don't bother Get a pair of "Nifty's Bits" mirrors here fitted with the convex Touring mirrors and have NO yes that's NO blidspots. Sorry I'll just feel that again. Blindspots. 1, Run with no sidescreens, 2, see where you are going, 3, see who's on your six. Smashin. Edited by - susser on 12 Nov 2006 19:06:15

I couldn't get A-O21Rs in 15" which is why I went for 14" Minatours. Now got some AO48Rs on my prisoners though. Intention is; 15" +48s on road, 14" 21Rs on trackdays. Now tell me I'm all wrong.

Sooooooooooooooo No chrome wheel nuts then

Chrome wheel nut please. Not listed I know but something might come up.

I used an angle grinder key to rotate the piston and a cramp to push it back with (simultaneously) Worked OK. here