susser
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Everything posted by susser
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I've had a number of rad repairs over the years; they've been mostly successful. Think you'll find the repairer will pressure test the rad prior to repair to see if it needs re-coring. About twenty five quid each for my last 2 Caterham ones. Brass I assume.
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Silver Sand from a builders' merchant or "Playpit Sand" from a toyshop is "Silica Free". Dunno how that works but it's ok for Grit Blasting operations.
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And nothing too potentially damaging is being introduced to the wheel area. Those spokes are secure because of their "hardness" but are also a hazard for the same reason. I would lock them together with wire; even a paper clip bit of wire would be more suitable than a zip tie IMHO.
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Mine generally locks up OSF first, all other things being equal. I find it's easier for threshold braking when I've only got one wheel to monitor.
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And you might not need a new boot cover; My 97 De Dion's Caged FIA bar fitted better with the original boot cover; the "FIA one had the holes too close together/apart.
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suitably bent welding rod,/ coat hanger if it's got holes. More complicated cradle shape if it hasn't. double sided sticky tape in a stick. Araldite on a stick (you'll have to wait a bit with that one.) some sticky tape stuck to the flywheel and rotate it on the crankshaft pulley. Edited by - susser on 3 Apr 2008 12:46:45
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RiF *thumbup* *thumbup* Personal service, great product, high quality, competitive price.
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Absolutely (munches toast) My '97 has these. Use the little W clips to hold the reflector in, (munch) and the reflector has a little metal wotsit to engage in the slot that the glass used to fit in, (cracking toast Gromit !) to make sure that the glass lens is correctly (munch) lined up horizontally.
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The Wipac conversion that Nigel mentions is the "Wipac Quadoptic" set that's been around for years. It's cheap and a straight swap with H4 bulbs. You can buy them with or without sidelights. The only thing you need to change is the connection for the sidelight bulbs. The Sealed beam connector fits straight on to the H4. We used to put them on sealed beam cars in the 70's. Transformed the night vision. The Cibie is a good light but tends to be more of a pencil beam. Good for getting down the road, but bad for picking up those peripheral hazards. IMHO.
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Interesting. I'll hafta have a look. I just finished fitting my Half Hood last night and that's for a normal bar and fits perfectly. I did relieve the rear holes in the stanchions to allow the screen top back a few mm just to stop the cracks spreading.
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Additional; The FIA bar makes the hood very slightly tighter, I thought.
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I got a FIA boot cover and it didn't fit my (caged X type) bar as the braces were penetrating the boot cover in the wrong place. My old cover fits OK but the ends of the bar that the harness bolts go through had to be teased out of the way ( the FIA upright is slightly inboard of the original). Mine's a '97 De Dion.
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An inch !! Tie a knot in it.
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VBH !! If you're reading this, take no notice of that Dave J. You're welcome to plonk that (slightly bigger than his) A55 in my lap anytime. BOSS. Alright, so I was flattering her, but now you've gone and blown it. It was not so bad as the time that Penny Mallory (on the used car roadshow) said. "So tell me. What is the difference between a straight four and a vee eight" I didn't hear what came next as I was reduced to a gibbering wreck on the floor.
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I, for one, will be waiting with baited breath. 'cos it sounds to me like you've been stitched up. There isn't a good reason (AFAIK) for adding another potential weak link to the chain of brake operation. Edited by - susser on 6 Mar 2008 12:22:35
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VBH the other day was wittering about the new electic Smart. One of her comparison tests was "miles per £"; she put the lights and other electrical loads on in the petrol model and suggested that "this won't make much difference with the petrol model but will make more difference to the electric one" Sorry VBH but you're talking out of you pretty little a55. The electrical power (say 200W) used by a petrol engined car will be generated by an alternator which has, as we've already discussed, losses, which is turned by an infernal combustion engine which has much larger losses. The electric Smart will use this power from it's batteries directly, with tiny losses. OK, I realise she was talking "miles per £" and not "miles per Joule" I reckon.
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Looking for an upgrade at Halfords on Sat ?
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A couple of clues make me think that the pedal is not returning to it's rest position and uncovering that "to allow for thermal expansion and wear etc.". If that were the case, then leaving the pedal unused, such as when you were firtling about for half an hour, would allow the piston to pass fluid through the seal and refill the system enough to be ok for a bit. Get someone to operate the pedal while you look into the reservoir; you should see the small squirt as the piston moves forward to the hole. No seeing it might be a clue that the pedal is stopping too low. Or something.
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A good flush with water and a little bit of soap ought to do well. IMHO.
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If you press the bearing in, use Anti Scuffing Paste. It reduces the chance of damaging the hub. And whetever you do, make sure you don't False Brinell the tracks by exerting too much force via the balls. I pressed these hub bearings hereinto my bmw swinging arms here using the old bearing to press on the outer track, then the hub is pulled into the bearing by squeezing only on the inner track. (If you hammer the bearing in using the wrong method, you'll wreck the bearing efore you've got it fitted.) Edited by - susser on 3 Feb 2008 08:49:21
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oright. i'll get on it when I go to work tonight. That's where the mail will be and my remote access is down at the mo'
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I've got the Haynes SU manual and it's got the HIF stuff in it. I can scan bits if you like.
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Bingo Dodgy corroded contacts in the Haz SW. Well sussed Martin.
