Nigel Riches

HELP, I've forgotten the tappet clearances on my old dunger, running the Kent 234 camshaft, any one out there got the numbers, I'd be very grateful if you'd post 'em out to me. Thanks, got to stop the rattles this weekend, Regards Nigel.

When mounting the electronical box of wiggly amps if you can get some heatsink compound the heat transfer to the heatsink will be improved, hopefully increasing the life of the box, Steve Motts seems to have access to the Farnell catalogue, may be able to give you a price and availability for a tube of this stuff, be warned, it gets everywhere, even when your not looking!!!! Regards Nigel.

Elie, have to say Belgium doesn't make too good cars, but when it comes to beer, chocolates and biscuits, you guys have got it sewn up, Chimay, rouge, bleu, or blanc for me. Regards Nigel in New Zealand.

Bricol, I needed a new half shaft for my Ital axle a few years back and a guy called Graham Sykes helped out, he's in Nottingham, or maybe not now, it was in 1994, or, I know it's not Yorkshire, Steve Perks Components, in Redditch, he's recommended by several 7 owners, myself included, good service, nice guy, good advice. Hope this is of some assistance, (not much probably). Best regards Nigel.

Fellow 7 owners, heres a quick question for your collective learned membership, my old dunger 1982 Caterham has been exposed to so much sun, you remember that big bright hot light that shines in the sky occasionally, that the inner surface of the side screens has faded to a yukky grey/brown colour, anyone got any ideas on what might be a good way of re-colouring them, bearing in mind her indoors wont be to impressed if the colour comes off and stains the cashmere jumper etc Looking forwards to more sun in the coming summer here in N.Z. Regards Nigel.

Sid, take look at Dave Andrews web site (via Alex Wongs links, I think) there is something about fitting a rear brake proportioning valve from a Mini, this is something that can be adjusted to suit so that a good front to rear brake balance is achieved, hope this helps. Regards Nigel.

Well guys sorry to drag this to the top again, but it did seem to degenerate into a discourse on the longevity, or not, of paint types, and colours, so what are the chassis differences of a 'cycle engined Caterham and a real Caterham!!!!Does it pick up with the same mounting points, is gearbox mount different, what's the problems likely to be in retro fitting to an earlier chassis? (1982). Is there a variation between the various chassis for the range of motorcycle engines, or , is it just the form of the mounting hardware, be real interested for some info, got to retire the X-flow some time. Regards Nigel.

Dear all, been reading all the stuff about Waxoyl and such like, well personally I can recommend Waxoyl, I bought my car back in 1982, treated it to a whole 4.5l can of the stuff, come 1998 it was time for a strip and refurb (due to getting stuffed in shipping to N.Z.), absolutely no problem getting it apart, and no rust on the frame, Spray everthing, not the brakes!!!!!! and she'll be in good nick for years to come.

Pete, give this lot a call, VEHICLE WIRING PRODUCTS. 0115 9305454 Hope this number is still current, as it's from a 1998 catalogue. They always were real helpful and prompt. Regards Nigel.

Blatman, I,ve found the sound files hear (sic) and had a listen, sure there are some screamers, like mine but my main concern was with the noise at idle, may be indicating something not to happy on the inside, but, hey, no worries, when it all goes bang probably find out which bit was the weak link, Regards Nigel. P.S. We need to run real sticky tyres on the other side, in case Mr. Newtons gravity packs a sad.

Thanks for all the replies, glad to know mines not the only noisy modified 'box, be it B.G.H. or S.P.C. and Blatman, I lived in Reading until '96, but now am residing in New Zealand, so probably wont be able to take up your offer of an earfull of gearbox noises, thanks anyway. best regards, enjoy the British summer, Nigel.

Dear fellow 7ers, my B.G.H gearbox (sierra type9) modified ratios and internal gubbins, changes sweet, screams like a banshee chainsaw, and has a great set cogs, but when the motors idling and the cars stationary what a bloody racket, sounds like someones emptied a bucket of bolts into a cement mixer drum, any ideas, or thoughts gratefully recieved, (possibly a worn out main shaft needle roller, or input shaft front bearing perhaps) all the best Nigel.

Steve, just taken a look at your note about your gear shift being noisy, my 1982 Caterham had a terrible rattle and sloppy change action, traced to shagged out nylotron top hat bushes fitted to the bolts that pass through the gear stick both in the front and rear of the change remote assembly, (if that's what it can be called, a loose conglomeration of old iron offcuts more accurately), so I binned the original and made up a machined, from one piece, ali remote shifter, this allows much better change action and also is used with the 5 speed box, which was a retro fit, I've got some photos here I could send, haven't got the technology to send them on the net. Best regards Nigel.

Mark what you may have is a leak from the screen washer bottle pump, if this is fitted to yours as it is to mine, just inside the engine bay on the offside, riveted bracket to the scuttle panel, just where it can wet your pants, without even driving the thing, easy fix, take the pipe and wiring from the tank, remove tank from car, dispose of the contents, make sure the surfaces and dry and clean, apply a small bead of R.T.V. sealant to the pump flange that abuts the tank, push together aligning the pump in the correct place, leave some where to dry for 24hrs, refit to car, refill, and have fun, or it could be some thing more sinister, like leaking brake fluid, AARRRGGGGHHH , got to take a serious look at the car if it is, hope this helps, and don't worry about having wet pants when driving it, as they say if you aint got wet pants your not doing right have fun regards Nigel

Dear Mr Hubcap, I fitted the rose joint (spherical bearing) A frame to my car back in 1988, and only last year replaced the bearing, (a big hit on the cost, about GBP25, if I remember correctly), the eye of the rose joint frame that attaches to the diff case bracket is bored through parellel with two grooves machined inside to retain the bearing in place, a spacer is then located either side of the ball section which is then placed in the diff bracket and bolted in the usual manner. The rubber bush A frame I believe is machined with a taper to match to conical form of the bushes, the rose joint frame does tighten the rear end, stops all the wallowing and such like, though some say it will transmit extra strain and loading in the rest of the frame Ive not found any problem, Hope this clarifies things a bit for you. Regards Nigel.

Taran, Ive seen feeler gauges with the .010" blade made of brass, this is apparently so that Hall effect sensors, or the magnets, in magnetic pick-up ignition systems are not damaged when being gapped, so your figure of .008" doesn't sound to far out. Regards Nigel.

Graham, I got fed up with replacing diff bushes several years ago when the diff bracket broke off the axle, I took the axle back to Caterhams, and whilst waiting for the new bracket to be welded on, got talking to one of the sales guys who said that a rose jointed "A" frame was available and being a sucker for new bits for the car I bought one, never changed a bush on the diff since, the big down side is the price of replacement rose joints, as nothing lasts for ever, don't know if they are still available and I seem to recall some arguments for and against in low flying several years ago. Regards Nigel.

Andrew, all the previous replies talk of the earth side, don't forget that the gauges are not fed with direct 12vdc, as this isn't very stable in car systems, have a look under the dash towards the nearside, and try to find the voltage regulator, this may look like a version of the indicator flasher box, but a bit smaller, this is supplied with voltage from the car system, and then drops and regulates that to either 7 or 10 volts, and that possibly wont be very stable either, depending on which gauges you have, do you have a meter? check this voltage, the older type use a coil of resistance wire wound around a bi-metalic strip to to regulate the output, but a better solution is to get a solid state device, much more reliable, if your car is fairly new this info may not be relevant as more supplies would be sourced from the ecu. Hope this is of some help, and may get other readers looking at the fault from the other end, so to speak. Regards Nigel.

Clarkey why don't you just keep unbolting and removing bits until the rattle stops, that way at least you'd know what is not rattling, and by a simple process of deduction whats left must be the culprit, well thats my idea, now it's time for my therapy and medication, if I can get her to agree!! Bye, Nigel. P.S. On a more serious note, when I installed the honeycomb panels to my car I was advised to use R.T.V adhesive and stick it liberally on both inner and outer panels, primarily for strengh, but also to ensure they didn't rattle. Deriveting the inner panel isn't to tricky, but you may find a flexy cable drill drive useful to get to all the important little places, and then of course you'll have to refit the panel, be sure to use the correct grade and size of rivet, I think the latest ones are monel metal, and much better spec than Taiwanese aluminium ones, have fun, all the best Nigel.

Simon, thanks for the info about the sump, has the english language chaged dramatically since 1996 when we came to New Zealand, what the stuff is a"puppies privates bash plate" a sump guard? just out interest what price was the sump as quoted to you I have managed to knock out most of the damage and will take it to work to get welded, thanks for your time. Regards Nigel

Fellow seven owners, due to a serious coming together of sump and rock (the rock appeared undamaged) I'am in need of a replacement wet sump pan for a X-flow, prefer the shallow type if possible, but regular type would be O.K. Thanks for your time regards Nigel.

Hugh, just seen your ad wanting dry sump parts for crossflow motor, sorry can't help with that but, if your going to ditch your wetsump pan I'll be interested to know more as mine got heavily modified by a large rock I clouted, look forward to hearing from you. Regards Nigel.

Mick, I can possibly help with black sooty exhaust question, if your motor is running on the filthy vile unleaded petrol then you will probably only ever get black, no nice grey, like with the old carcinogenic fuel of old. This problem was experienced soon after I shifted here to New Zealand, where our caring, sharing, (interfering) government took real petrol off the market, many problems for many people with older cars, or elderly engines, so, probably nothing to untoward with the exhaust, it's all caused by the different formulation of this psuedo petrol, and a word of caution to any fellow seven owners looking to get a quick fix in the form of cannisters of tin pellets, or lead additives to tip into the tank or fit in the fuel line, don't bother, various devices of this kind were put through extensive tests by the AA, and some universities and found to be of no use, may as well put the money toward going to unleaded cylinder head modification, hey well, I've rambled enough, keep it on the black stuff Regards Nigel.

ammo. when i fitted the sierra 5 speed box to my car i was advised that only ford synthetic gearbox oil should be used, that was real expensive and piddled out of the smallest gap, so remove gearbox fit new gaskets and fill with castrol syntrax which is also real expensive, but a very nice shade of red, easily seen on the garage floor and it stinks in typical gearbox oil manner, any way back to the oil, it's a fully synthetic 75w/90 manual transmission fluid exceeding API/GL5, its worked realy well in my gearbox, so maybe it may suit your requirements. keep it on the black stuff, nigel.