Nigel Riches
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Everything posted by Nigel Riches
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Certainly, if your coming down to the other end of the world get in touch, would be good to talk 7s, and point out some of the better roads, 700 mile blat this weekend, great weather, great scenery, and as Stephanie's peering at me, great company, have fun, oh and a chap up the road has a '74 Ferrari, not sure which model, and he also had a 7 years ago, Nigel.
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Don't forget to use plenty of Copperslip, or some other anti-sieze compound when assembling the new bushes to the A frame, so the next time removal will be a breeze, be really careful if you go the blow lamp or hacksaw method, as both have the potential to weaken the metal, when I replaced the bushes on my car I used two sockets from a half inch drive set and a vice, and fortunately didn't encounter the problems you have. Glad to hear the heavier gear knob fixed the vibration problem, Cheers, Nigel.
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Before going grovelling about under the car or behind the dash board, does the odometer work, if so, it's not the cable, save your self some time in the dirty bits, give it a try, maybe your lucky and only need to remove the instrument, have fun, Nigel.
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Have a look through the likes of Classic cars, and such magazines, should have some folks advertising chrome restoration, and if possible get the three plating process, copper, nickel, and chrome, it'll stay on for ever, had my headlamps done like this 20 years ago and still look like new, Caio Nigel.
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Buda, I've just been out to the garage and got the following measurement for the aeroscreens, 195mm at the highest point of the glass from the mounting bracket base, when the glass is upright, you'll need to add in the thickness of the stantion or mounting bracket, as for the rake angle, that is all down to trial and error, depends how tall you sit when behind the 'wheel, and if you fit aeroscreens don't forget to get some safety specs or googles, and a good hankie, for wiping splattered insect and the enormous grin off your face. Have fun Nigel.
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Something to check when the "charge" light glows, is the resistance of the main lead from the alternator to the battery +ve, mine went high resistance, and brought the warning on, a replacement wire had it fixed in a few minutes.
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Den, years ago I bought some locking wheel nuts which have a cover that is removed by aligning a magnetic disc type key at the outer end, a quarter turn, and off comes the cover, to reveal a nut which is a different physical size to the other three on the wheel, so a special spanner adapter was supplied in the kit of bits, these where manufactured in Japan, and as they have no aperture for the insertion of a "key", ie no gunge in the mechanism, have never caused me any problem, unfortunately I can't remember the name of the manufacturer, hope this is of some assistance, I would try to stay away from "key" operated locking nuts. Regards Nigel.
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That leg o' lamb might not be in to good condition by the time the post office has put it through their system, bye from your upside down Hobbit. P.S. Edora is only an hours drive away, but not really a suitable road for a 7.
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Is that really 1.6m high, sure it's not the understairs cupboard. Nigel.
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Smegnoguk, the leg o' lamb would be about $10nz so 3 quid to you my boy, but I'm not a big fan of lamb, get some good venison or beef though and count me in. Did you see me as any particular Hobbit? Have fun, best regards Nigel.
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HOW MUCH IS THAT PETROL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, we pay the equivalent of approx 35 pence a litre, and only about 20 pence a litre for diesel, but have to pay a levy on the weight and distance travelled for diesel vehicles, still it's a lot cheaper but we still gripe about it.
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Something else may be the crappy unleaded pseudo petrol has different burn characteristics to that lovely lead enriched carcinogenic real fuel of days gone by, this may be causing the fouling at idle, but a session on a rolling road should fix things O.K.
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Phil, a smear of silicone grease to hold the "o" rings in place whilst assembling the carbs to the manifold helps stop them squidging out (techie term that), but an alternative is to replace the sandwich plates and "O" rings with an alloy plate with the sealing rings moulded on, you also could also replace the Thackery washers with rubber bushes and twin cupped washers, see the Burton catalogue page 29 , carb mounting accessories, item 6, & 7, and you may need to fit longer mounting studs, hope this has been of some assistance, regards Nigel.
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Steve, I wa seriously worried by this thread, thought you may have "turned" to that new technology stuff, the zetec, glad to read at the end the trusty x-flow lives to fight another day, and in keeping with the cars age. regards Nigel. P.S. did you get your gearbox sorted O.K.?
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Here's something else to take a look at, where the top of the shock absorber passes through the chassis there are some rubber doughnut things, one above and one below the frame of the car, held in place by cup shaped washers, if the nuts on the top should start to loosen, or the lower bungy thing gets compressed, the shock absorber rod can rub on the chassis, causing an awful noise, and being tricky to isolate, I know I spent many happy hours trying to find it. Regards Nigel.
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Nein. 🤔
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S'pose you've got carpet as well........
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A large bin bag around the legs and a few drain holes in the floor, buy a 7 and moan about getting a few spots of water on you......
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DON"T SELL IT JAMES!!!!!!!!!!!, Bring it with you to the best 7 roads in the world, don't worry about upgradeitis, (which would really mean an aversion to upgrades), bring it down, so few in these parts, all the cross flow parts are here and the local "can do" Kiwi attitude will get just about anything fixed, or replaced, really do feel you'll regret it if you leave it in blighty. Regards Nigel.
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Terry, a thoroughly good book on the Lotus Twin Cam engine by Miles Wilkins, published in 1988, by Osprey Publishing Limited, 59 Grosvenor St, London, W1X 9DA, possibly out of print now, try some secondhand bookshops, the I.S.B.N 0-85045-676-2, worth every penny, but then I bought mine back in 1990, sorry won't part with it, but could send info if you let me know what the cams are that you have, e-mail if you want, glad to be of assistance, regards Nigel, in New Zealand.
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My pressure activated brake light switch became "tired" ie would only activate the lights when stood on with huge force, being a nosey bugger I took it to bits, and the diaphragm which made contact with the two wiring connectors had corroded, thus offering a high resistance circuit, and no brake lights in normal operation, but this does seem to be its only failing, and that after 18 years.
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Several posts about repairing or replacing a duff fuel tank, here a few weeks back, in the last couple of months or so, have a look, probably best to replace it at the age it is, probably corroding from the inside, will carry on springing leaks as fast as you could bodge 'em up. Have fun Nigel.
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To much technology, to much to worry about, just drive the thing.
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Ezzer the 90 deg drive is a V.D.O. component from earlier V.W. golf and polo cars, may pay to have trip to a breakers yard, may still need the steel plate to be attached at the gearbox end of the thing, shouldn't be 40 quid though, have fun Nigel.
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Taran, I believe the 90 degree drive is a V.D.O item installed on V.W Polo and Golf models of previous years, may be worth a look around a breakers yard, I had the base plate where it fits to the gearbox break also, but with the skills available through Air New Zealand Engineering workshops, it's all fixed better than new and still working fine, have fun Nigel.