Nick Bassett

Hi folks Anyone know the throttle cable part number for MY 2000 SLR with KV6 TBs? Wasn't sure if this was it: SBB10173? Thanks Nick

Bit of a long shot really, but wondered if anyone had a spare K series coolant rail - the one that attaches to the cam carrier above the exhaust manifold? I'm looking for the later version that sits higher than the original. Thanks!

Graham - thanks. Makes good sense as you say. Please tell your brother his old 7 is still going strong - well it will be once the engine & 'box have been refitted! Cheers Nick

Thanks for all advice etc. Still not sure on whether to change engine & gearbox mounts - they look fine with no cracks etc. JV - clutch plate was OK, but springs were broken, so have a new Helix going in. CRB was shot, but fortunately I bought an alloy example years ago that should do nicely!

Hi folks, Now that I have my engine back from DVA nicely refreshed, I'm planning on putting this big chunky jigsaw puzzle back together... just hope I'm not missing any parts! Gearbox oil - what should I be using? I know I've read somewhere about Redline MTL, but a knowledgeable friend is suggesting MT-LV which I haven't heard of before. I've been told I need 2 litres, but the Redline is sold in bottles of 946 ml... is 2 bottles enough or do I need 3? Finally - gearbox mount - is it normal practice to replace this whilst gearbox is out? Engine mounts - looking to replace these too. The originals look fine, but are 20+ years old if original, therefore good practice to renew? Thanks Nick

Size 46L Selling my G1 jacket as I have too many leather jackets and having a bit of clear out! Aviation Leathercraft produces some of the finest leather flying jackets, supplying the RAF BBMF and producing many other 'Squadron' type jackets. Quality dark brown steer hide with a genuine moulton fleece collar. Cotton lined. Cuffs, waistband and lamb fleece collar are all in very good condition, showing little, if any signs of wear. This really is a lovely jacket in great preloved condition. £100 + P&P or pick up from West Berks

I'm sure it's a lovely car, but on the face of it, seems over-priced for a non-genuine R400.

Progress update: after a bit of head scratching yesterday, I got my trusty Dremmel tool out and started gently grinding away the cam ladder shelf that was preventing access to the IACV tube bolts and it worked! Now have much better access to these and have managed to undo 3 of the 4! The last one is putting up a fight as it's rounded slightly, but I'm going to invest in some long reach hex bits for my ratchet and hoping that will do the trick in getting the little blighter out! It's currently being soaked in a cocktail of WD40 and Plus Gas... Any other thoughts on how to get this final one out gratefully received! Pic of my fettling efforts below:

Yellow SV (?) OU22.... Was following you in a black Passat from the A419 through to Aldbourne... you then took off and that was the last I saw of you! BTW your near side rear light isn't working!

I was hoping you were going to say that Dave! Thanks.

Thanks Tom - mine seems to have just cap head bolts fitted, meaning an open-ended isn't an option. I'll take another look at the weekend to see what's possible... Cheers Nick

Stu - I'm trying to strip as much off the engine as I can before I take it to DVA later this month.

Tom - yes I think so as the pipe masks one of the inlet bolts... will take another look tonight.

Thanks Stu - I did wonder if the cut down allen key is the route to this. Another concern I have is, could I get enough purchase on these bolts using just an allen key? I guess being an alloy pipe, the bolts won't be too tight? Famous last words...!!

Hi folks, Anybody got any tips for removing the KV6 TBs/inlet manifold from a VHPD head? The issue is there is a horizontal bar that sits on top the inlet manifold holding the IACV and the 4 recessed cap head bolts (holding this bar to the inlet) sit directly below a lip on the top of the cam carrier, so it seems impossible to access these cap heads, unless a cut down allen key is the answer? I'm concerned that using an allen key could damage them, making them even harder to remove! The annoying thing is, if recesses were cut into the side of the lip attached to the cam carrier, they could be made easily accessible from the top down. Pic attached, with two of the cap heads circled in blue (lifted from DVA website - thanks Dave!)

... we were in my red SLR - some lovely empty roads up there... just watch out for the 'orses!

Keep her in her original scheme, but with bare carbon wings front and rear and a carbon nose ring... she'll be snapped up I'm sure.

Hi Dom, Are the CF wing protectors still available? Thanks Nick

My Superlight R runs a standard Banner battery - no problems as such. It's coming up to 5 years old and have noticed that leaving it on trickle charge, the final green light CTEK charger doesn't light up no matter how long it's attached, so I suspect it'll need a new battery for next year. I'll be SORN-ing it from November so will start 2023 with a new battery. Only maintenance I do on the battery is check the levels once a year and top up if necessary - usually only requiring very small amounts.

Thanks Richard, but in another thread '7 wonders' mentions that standard Bilsteins are twin tube and therefore need to be fitted the correct way up. My adjustable Bilsteins are not of the race type, therefore I assumed them to be of twin tube construction? Or is that incorrect? The other thread I mention can be read here: /forum/techtalk/bilsteins-upside-down-0

Thanks for replies. So, it would seem we have a split decision! I'm assuming my adjustable standard Bilsteins are twin tube and therefore (according to 7 wonders) should be fitted the correct way up?

My yr 2000 Superlight R has the front Bilstein front damper units fitted upside down and AFAIK has had since the car was built 22 years ago. Yesterday a fellow Caterham owning friend was looking at them and suggested they had been fitted incorrectly and should be the right way up. He said only race dampers can be fitted upside down. Car handles fine and presumably the previous 5 owners were happy with handling too. Car was built by a Caterham employee (Not Caterham) for the first owner. Just keen to know what the truth is? Thanks

To close the loop on this... I found the Steve Tourle's DS install guide online and the part number I was looking for is: 75697T Tensioner Rover dry sump bracket PQG 100180

5W50 oil - not sure where you've seen 0w40 as 5W50 is recommended by almost everyone on here for the K series...

Hmmmm... some interesting points - thanks. It does sound like a belt, which could only mean either the cambelt or the DS belt - both were renewed in the last 4 years with minimal mileage since. I had disconnected the alternator, so that can be eliminated. The sound seems to be coming more from the gold pump side of the engine, but difficult to be certain.One other point - sometimes the sound is louder than other times - weird! If it is an over-tightened belt, to RJ's point, why should that start to happen now? Could the cambelt tensioner be on the way out... could that cause a tightening of the belt? Next steps: 1. Remove DS belt tensioner and renew - this I believe to be an original part so could probably do with renewing anyway. 2. If point 1 doesn't fix the issue, my trusty Caterham technician Alex has offered to have a look. Any other thoughts welcome of course - thanks!