Nick Bassett

Hi folks As much as I appreciate the film 'Das Boot', could we keep this thread true to it's original purpose please, i.e. my VHPD woes? Thanks Nick

Richard I bought 4mm black using the link Stu provided. Cheers Nick

The contact I have at Avon is Faye George on 01225 357751 - very helpful when I dealt with her.

Brilliant... now I just need to find a Kriegsmarine cap...!!!

SM25T - thanks. I have tried that and the gold DS oil pump is a bit noisy, but I don't what it was like before, so have no point of comparison! I wonder (hope) it's the DS belt tensioner as I'm pretty sure it's never been changed. That would be a straight-forward, relatively cheap fix. I'm really hoping it's not the gold DS pump as that was refreshed fairly recently as surely shouldn't be playing up so soon?

Cambelt has been changed in the last 2 years or so and have removed the cover to check for chaffing etc... all good. Not sure about tensioner, but probably worth checking I guess. Water-pump also changed 2 years ago and I'm certain it's coming from that area.

My trusty SLR has recently developed a whining sound (not from the cockpit!!), not unlike a supercharger (I’ve checked – cannot find one!!) and I’m wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue? Oil pressure (mech pressure gauge) is high and steady and engine still pulls like a train. Winter 2018/19 I removed the gold pump and had it rebuilt by Titan as precautionary maintenance and it’s been fine since refitting and probably only covered c. 6k mileage. Forget to mention before - cambelt changed 2 years ago, but can't remember if the tensioner was changed at that time. Definitely no rubbing or chaffing happening there as I have removed the belt cover. Water pump also appears quiet and has no leaks. The alternator is newish and I’ve disconnected it and run the car for a short time without it and the whining noise is still there! So it can only be either the gold DS pump that has a dodgy bearing fitted or the DS belt tensioner bearing that is on the way out – this is original and is the next focus for me. The car lives a charmed life really – oil & filter change annually and only driven on the road and never abused – warmed up properly etc… You can hear the sound in this short video clip: Finally – anything else I should be considering? Thanks Nick

That would be really helpful - thanks Ian. Cheers Nick

Thanks Stu - cannot understand the sig price difference between the 'a' and 'non-a' version - seems very odd to me. Will need to remove mine to be sure, although one of the fixing bolts has started to round off!!

Nothing Tom! I'm having my engine refreshed over the Winter and I'm just collecting a few bits here and there. I've managed to buy 6 new valves but just need 2 more to cover the inlet side. The DS belt tensioner has never been changed (AFAIK), so thought it would probably be worth doing. Cheers, Nick

Thanks Stu - that's really good to know. Don't suppose you know the part number of the dry sump belt tensioner - it's either PQG100180 or PQG100180a? Also where to source a replacement tensioner and if non-OEM are any good? Rimmerbros are extortionate!

Just 2 needed - must be new & genuine MG Rover parts. Thanks!

BTTT

I've noticed a few Superlight Rs for sale recently... petrol prices maybe pushing owners into selling? (not that SLRs are really any thirstier than other 7s). If you are considering a SLR, you won't be disappointed!

My old 1.4 SS had exactly the same trait that you describe - sometimes the revs would dip and the engine would stall. When I took it to DVA for some work, he said the cams were all over the place! Once set up properly it never happened again and the awful shunting I used to have at low revs, light throttle disappeared completely too. My money is on the cam timing.

... the type that lowers the alternator driven speed but also includes the pulley for the gold DS pump. Thanks

Bollé ballistic googles/sunglasses for me and a beanie if it's a bit chilly etc...

The PT guys are a friendly, helpful bunch when I've met them at the various events they've put on over the years, but... the cars they have up for sale always look like they've had a hard life and as others have said... a bit tatty! That shouldn't be a problem if the price reflects the condition, but they are always up for strong money... Maybe it's because they are mechanically well maintained (like race cars should be), but cosmetics comes 2nd place? You pays your money and all that...

Lovely tidy looking car that... I'm sure it'll get snapped up!

I used to have a problem with cold idling on my SLR - I took off the IACV, cleaned and lubed it. Since refitting the car has always started and idled from cold without any issues. Worth a try if you have a IACV...

I wish I understood 1%... but I don't! But well done Andrew... I echo the sentiments of the others who responded to this thread

Hi all, Posting on behalf of a work colleague - looks tidy but needs engine rebuild & fitting (engine included): https://www.justkampers.com/marketplace/advert/view/id/12436/ Thanks Nick

Hi Paul, Thanks for your reply - I can't respond as your inbox is full! I have sent you a chat with my email address - have you received this? Cheers Nick

PM sent

I bought a spare K series engine many years ago and was given this new clutch plate at the same time. Was told it was for a K series Caterham, but would love to know the manufacturer... no markings on it that I can see. A friend and fellow 7'er has suggested he thinks it is a Helix clutch... any thoughts to that? Thanks.