7 wonders of the world

If the prop is out it's worth getting better quality uj's fitted with nipple and rebalanced. My 2006 prop joints were knackered after 7months so that and my current prop were rebuild BT Proptech.. He wasn't very complimentary about the budget joints that were in from the factory....

M20 x 1.5 is the size to look for on ebay

Fill the final drive to the level plug with the car on the ground Worth replacing the Allen head OEM. plug with a magnetic hex head version it makes accessing it in the car massively easier.

When ever I'm under the car mine gets a few pumps in each nipple... Only takes a few seconds..

I will try an old dummy head first 9 is a little shy for a 1.5 pitch but should be more than man enough for the job..

The front is tight I just flowed the corner of the drilling to the tensioner too belt and braces. Just awaiting plugs for the rear of the head front one is factory drilled and capped with a washer at m12x1. 25. Rear holes once the Avdels are out are 9.1 so going to 9.9 and tapping for An - 4 ORB plugs with 243 on all 3.... No depth issues on these...

the head work is really quite therapeutic

All looking good James, you will easily hit your target numbers, just check that all the mounting holes for the inlet manifold are tapped out M8 some heads have one which isn't depending on which OEM manifold was used, usually the lower hole between No 3 & 4. If you find that after porting the land supporting the O ring seal on the TB's is marginal you can fill this groove with chemical metal, flat off and seal with a fine bead of RTV

some of the worse corrosion is often hidden by the panels, any many owners have found some unexpected serious chassis corrosion when repanelling,

if they are badly pitted in the working area you will end up honing them beyond a safe diameter, if you only lightly hone them, even with new seals they are still going to be marginal in terms of service and performance - which could lead to you damaging your BDR, or worse. Maybe worth Googling girling dealers or finding the OEM part number for them in order to find genuine units.

the steel centre will still be exerting a radial force thro the ally plug and they certainly take a good swift blow to move them, one of my ally plugs was tight to pull the other quite easy, at cold oil pressure they are likely to see near 15kg/f on them, I wasn't prepared to risk an engine on these so went for threaded gallery plugs sealed and secured with Loctite 270. The full diameter plug also provides a better opening for cleaning with less chance of debris getting retained behind the remaining ally plug.

I taped the small side gallery cess plug for M10 as the hole in 8.5mm with the entire Avdel removed steel centre and ally surround, The front and rear plugs are much bigger and you must remove all of the ally plug circa 16mm diameter and retap, I had mine tapped with a taper 3/4 BSP (-8 alt) with a plain BSP plug make sure the front plug is short enough so it doesn't partially obscure the feed to the chain tensioner. I knocked the steel centre thro then tapped out the front and rear plugs to accept a M12 bolt and made a simple puller with a suitable socket to pull the ally piece cleanly out. I will get some photos to you once my block is back

Agree with the above the structural integrity of the chassis is important and often only fully accessible for repair by removing old panels, if Arch do the work it will be done correctly using the correct tooling and methods, you could always ask if they could take photos during the process for you in order to show provenance...

Hi James Interesting as I have alway used the Ford spec in the manual, this manual does list different procedures for hand tool and multi spindle applications though. Craddle bolts as follows: I lube threads with stock engine oil and allow to drain on absorbent cloth then lube under head (same lube) prior to fitting, torque to 45Nm 90 degrees 90degrees. the 45Nm the180 is for multi spindle applications I'm sure the Burton info with only 1 x 90 degree is incorrect as I tried the 45/90/90 procedure with an old block this time using ARP lube under the bolt head and it locked the crank due to the higher clamping load on the initial torque, components were stripped and clean and repeated with engine oil and all was fine, so if the Burton listing was correct and extra 90 degree would certainly lock the crank. However just to throw something else into the mix, I stripped my engine a few weeks ago and all the craddle bolts came out cleanly, however, when re torquing the craddle in preparation for reboring 1 bolt pulled the threads prior to even reaching 45Nm.... So I'be had my block machined and fitted with 30mm deep M14 inserts tapped out to M10x1.0 went together perfectly and is now being bored to 88mm. I have new Ford OEM craddle bolts which measure 106.75mm Ford part number 5 090 569 these are bagged and lightly coated in oil I will measure my old OEM ones (Which were obtained via Mazda) which have now undergone the maximum 3 uses when I get my block next week.

Assuming your friend has a spare set to work from..? Fuel filler are made by Newton and the spare key will have the number it. Toad sterling will supply a fob to rercode Ignition keys are are still rover blanks istr so can be cut at a decent key cutter.

In Japan they remap them after a few mods to near 200 ponies...

Speak to Steve at YC plastics South Wales he makes some great quality ABS versions in black or carbon effect

might it be possible to use a borescope link to your phone thro the sump plug drain ARP bolts are pretty well marked - unless its got a DS pan on there

Paul, your correct I was thinking of my Jenvey linkage pivot....

No, if the shaft was lightly greased on assembly and a little clearance left as the nyloc nut is fitted all should be well.

Can't believe no one is looking to unleash a few more ponies......

set of used ones here shows they were 10.9 grade Blue bolts

The blur bolts were actually all blue... Can't recall the spec though

CC may have opted for cap heads on the 620 possibly due to the increase in propshaft diameter restricting access to hex heads... I haven't seen one up close but just sumising...