MikeE

ah do I take it from this thread here that heat might be the issue and I've fried something as it sits so close to the headers? Is this likely to be a simple repair or a complete recon? R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

OK I've checked both input wires (ignition light and regulator?) and there both 12v, I also switched them over just in case. I checked the 6mm output from the alternator with the engine off and it's 12v indicating that the circuits working I guess. I then fired up the engine and again checked the alternator output and it's still only 12 volts ☹️ So I reckon the alternator must be knackered? Is this likely after only 4,200 (mainly track) miles and 2.5 years? If so what goes wrong with an alternator or is it just an exchange item? Think I'd better contact Raceline to check they have a spare ❗ R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

But you have a Duranail Dave 😬 R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

Dave, surely a 12v warning light supply and a 12v switched supply are one in the same thing? According to the electrickery notes the brown one is from the ignition light (effectively just a switched 12v supply) and the other one is from the ECU regulator I shall try switching the two over as I guess it's possible I have them the wrong way around. Brent - no it's the one which was supplied when the engine was new, I think I have it because I have dry sump so couldn't fit the alternator on the induction side, it has to go on the exhaust side which then dictates that it's smaller than standard, this also meant I had to have the up and over manifold... R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

Brent - thanks for the info, I actually have the lightweigth alternator (supplied by Mick Attree I believe) which is mounted underneath the exhaust headers - makes it difficult to test the voltage with the engine running without burning your hands Tony - yes I do have to keep recharging the battery so I'm certain the alternators not working, now I've got a supply to the brown (ignition light) wire I'm surprised it's not working - maybe I should try switching the brown and white wires around? Any more advice greatfully recieved R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

Mark, The white wire is from the regulator according to the description I have from the Low Flying Electrickery articles. Yes I have a thick red lead to the starter motor. Think is I have a stck dash so no simple warning light on the facia, I assume there must be a feed from the stack dash harness somewhere but I can't find it in the mess of wiring. I've now connected this up to a switched 12v supply but it still don't seem to be getting a charge to the battery Makes me think there must be another fault someone, in fact I wonder if the lack of a 12 volt supply on the inginition light was actually a problem at all - very confused and frustrated ❗ R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

Oh and just to add a bit of pressure I've booked Bedford autodrome GT circuit on 7th April - so can anyone recommend a professional who could sort this out for me in the Farnham, Surrey area??? R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

After months of intermittently getting a low voltage warning on my stack dash I finally borrowed a volt meter to try and debug the problem. So I test the battery with ignition off - 12 v Try again with the engine running - still 12 v So conclude that there's no charge being recived from the alternator. Next I take each of the two wires off the alternator and check for voltage The white wire (from the ECU regulator?) - 12v The brown wire (from the ignition warning light?) - 0v So I figure I should have 12v on the brown wire. I trace it all the way back to under the dash and find a brown/yellow wire which isn't connected to anything. So I connect a temporary feed from the +ve terminal of the battery and again I check the brown wire at the alternator and it's now 12 volts - this is correct right 🤔 So I put the two wires back on the alternator and start up the engine, I'm still only getting 12v across the battery when I should be getting 14v I believe 🤔 So do I really have a problem with no feed on the brown wire AND now another problem with the alternator - I'd be surprised if there were multiple problems - I'm confused please help ❗ R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here Edited by - MikeE on 6 May 2007 14:31:58

Very true Dave, that's what I did but did 3 complete revolutions, measured the total distance then divided by 3 to minimise measurement errors (I don't have a Bsc in Physics for nothing 😬) R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

the number of pulses will depend on the tuype of bolts you have holding the disk on, I have allen ky bolts and so had to set to 8 pulses although I want to change these to normal bolts as I think it might be missing a pulse or 2 at high speed - max revs in 5th seems to read 135mph when I reckon it's 140mph+ in reality. I don't know what the circumference is but just measure the rolling distance of the tyre R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

No I'm not sure cos' I've never seen the standard sureshift - I'm making it up as i go along having said that the buttons on your dash aren't even connected to the shift lights so it's unlikely (but not impossible?) that that will work 😬 R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

I did tell you the R400 one wasn't programmable at the top of this thread (and yes it's independent of the stack), after all I did build my R400 so you would assume I know what I'm talking about ffs R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

I believe only the R500 ones are user adjustables, when I ordered my R400 I paid £35 to upgrade to the R500 ones.... R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

assuming you have the outer cable then go to your local halfords and buy a mountain bike brake cable, bought and fitted one this weekend for £1.99 - we'll see how long it lasts.... R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

Ok I can't resist - what's involved in upgrading a Raceline 220bhp spec (220 cams, standard pistons, rods and crank) up to the 270 spec? and what will it rev to? I feel an upgrade coming on R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

Peter what mods are necessary to get 258bhp from your R500 - or did you take the tried and trusted route of chosing your rolling road carefully 😬 Dave, what spec is your 2.0l? Will be interesting to see how it compares to your k on track. R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

No I don't get any other alarms. I should also add that I don't think it's a false warning as on a couple of occassions the warning has been intermittent and then eventually the electrics completely die and the engine stops R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

I've been getting this on and off for 6 months so it's really time I sorted it. I've tried the obvious stuff like the alternator apde connectors and the fuse box but I'm still getting it intermitantly. To save the guess work what's the best way to track down the problem (I don't have any electrical knowlege or equipement to help!), should I just take it to an auto-electrician and if so can someone recommend a Caterham proficient one in my area? R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

and the other big advantage (IMHO) with ACB10s is they are very predictable/progressive on the limit which make 100mph oversteer far easier to perfect - they're not bad on track either 😬 R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

I have a Raceline big silencer on my 2.0l Duratec and it's very quiet, it's definitely the induction which is the issue for me as I have a bonnet cut out for the filter R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

Re leaking gearboxes - I had a serious leak on my BHG (after a trackday) which I tracked down to the bolts holding the 2 halves together coming loose and in fact the top 2 had fallen out I assumed this was an isolated incident but maybe not, let me know if you're suffering the same issue. R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

Ammo, thanks for the feedback/info, while I haven't actually order anything from RaceCo we've spoken on the phone a number of times, the last time about a year ago when we discussed the possibility of building a 280bhp 9,000rpm+ 2.0l for me, and I've known DannyLT from his Cerbera days (remember that very subtle Pink Tuscan at Bedford in 2000 Danny 😳) and know he's very enthusiastic about your engine building and development skills (and he keeps trying to tempt me to upgrade with his generous offer to try his current 307bhp Duranail ) so I really hope you do continue and find a way to make a reasonable living from what you do - good luck to you R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here Edited by - MikeE on 25 Jan 2007 22:06:18

why would anything on this thread (certainly over the last few pages) offend anyone, seems fine to me Ammo - sorry to keep asking questions but, ignoring the new top secret project I was trying to figure what the other capacities were? 1.8, 2.0, 2.3, 2.4 (based on 2.3) and the 5th? R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here

So Norman can't see the pictures and Danny can't read the text - it says 120kg!! 😬 R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here Edited by - MikeE on 24 Jan 2007 17:41:07

don't have a clue but maybe the strange words Alfa Romeo on the cam covers mean something R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures here