Englishmaninwales

Deliver your car/trailer to curbs the night before. There is a Premier Inn close by in Fradley. There are two Travelodges on the A 38 on northbound and southbound carriageways, but last time I used the southbound one it was filthy.... Malcolm

Same thoughts, Ben. Sulking in the garage with 2 cars not yet ready...appointment with Arch this week for Sam's car! Malcolm

Tom I think SM25T is on the money, pip is not engaged in the piston slot and inner pad is tilted.

What's it called?

Open heater valve. Remove header tank cap. Undo radiator drain plug and drain radiator. The engine block will still full of coolant, so undo bypass hose (thermostat housing to heater) at the heater end and securely plug the hose. Feed the bypass hose forwards and downward until the end is below the sump, making sure the hose is not kinked. Remove the plug and drain the coolant in engine block (except for a small quanity that will remain in the engine block that cannot be removed). My experience with the early 1400 engine, compared to later engines, is that it is very difficult to refill without an airlock (presumably due to the different closed deck block wet liner arrangement). Malcolm

+1 Malcolm

I bought the whole tower assembly from CC about a year ago (credit to TomB for alerting me at the time ) but Parts was having a discounted sale on obsolete parts, and I think they told me it was the last one. If that is the case you could ditch the belltank, replacing with a standard bellhousing and clutch release arm and fit a proper higher capacity generic stainless steel dry sump tank (they are designed to de-aerate the oil) from Burtons or such like supplier, in front of the passenger footwell (which you would need to shorten). You would need longer scavenge pump to tank and tank to engine pump pipes made up and rerouted (Think Automotive made some pipes for me recently). I think the whole assembly would be a bit lighter than the heavy, capacity limited, belltank. Malcolm

Thank you for providing this for the K series users, Andrew. Way above me but I know where to go if I have an ECU issue or upgrade. Malcolm

Wire brush, then Marine Clean to degrease, wash off, then Metal Ready for 30 mins, through wash off, then 2 coats of POR 15, apply second coat before first fully cures (test with fingertip drag). Sets rock hard so be sure to mask up any areas you do not want to paint. If item is to be exposed to sunlight there is a UV resistant POR topcoat available. Malcolm

Sam and I have entered (if you log on and click our championship, you can view the list of entrants.) A very efficient booking process too. Malcolm

Feed, hay, horse trailers, saddle repairs, vets, farriers, muddy fields, horse manure...I could go on! I bet you're glad it's retired! Good luck with the sale, though! Malcolm

2 largest o rings (under screw cap) are ID 45mm cross section 2.5mm 1 medium o ring (under retaining plate for cylindrical tower insert) ID 34mm cross section 1.4mm 1 small o ring (under dipstick cap) ID 9.5mm cross section 1.6mm 1 small o ring (under breather spigot) ID 10mm cross section 1.4mm All measurements as best I can with a vernier! I'm unsure if they are nitrile or Viton. Malcolm

Do you mean the two larger o rings under the swirl tower screw top (or later screw type fixed with caphead screws) or the smaller one under the top flange of the central tube insert?If you confirm, I can measure them and Simply Bearings will most probably be able to supply.

Paul, I have copied one recently, really easy to do, with aluminium sheet purchased from eBay (100 x 100 x 6mm for £3.80). I didn't bother with the recesses for the caphead fixings, as when fitted the rear of the sump is lower. It is useful to have the belltank off the car to ensure the final position of the bolt holes is absolutely correct. Malcolm Edit to add: I can loan you an original one to copy, on a rapid turn around as will be fitting system shortly.

For future reference: The o ring size for this application is correct as posted by Ian in his link and repeated above. Titan part number SRN-200-017-45-A4 is for a 200-017-4470 o ring. Trelleborg make this o ring 17.16mm ID 1.78mm cross-section in Nitrile. Simply Bearings sell a Viton version (higher temp/oil and fuel resistant) 17.17 x 1.78 mm part number BS017.VIT

Thanks Paul, that's most helpful. Malcolm

Thanks Ian blending that edge is the way to go!

Thanks Ian, I think that must be where I got the o ring size from. What's the trick for fitting them, as I've shredded 2 pairs now on trial build, despite using plenty of lubricant? The opening has a 0.45 mm machined step which takes the opening down from 20.8 to 19.9mm, which I think is doing the damage. Malcolm

I'm looking for the correct size o rings for the oil pick up. Note this is the later type bell tank Rover K with a lower pick up fitted through a threaded shoulder on the base of the tank. My notes (not sure where I originally got the information, possibly from this forum) say this should be Viton 1.78mm section x 17.17mm bore, but despite care and lubrication they chew up on fitting. Before I order more/smaller o rings to try (expensive), any info would be useful. Thanks Malcolm (I should add these are obsolete parts for CC parts, although they are looking into it for me).

"Looking at this it may come forward out of the housing as the bearing is larger than gear dia. The bearing needs a press to remove and replace on the Spigott/ First Motion Shaft. There are special tools and a press to do it without shaft or bearing damage." I have just been through the process of replacing the seal on the input shaft housing to cure an oil leak. On discussion with BGH I was warned, after removal of the housing to avoid any forward movement on the input shaft (ie out of the gearbox) as the 4th gear baulk ring (#6 in the parts diagram above) can get dislocated, requiring a gearbox dis-assembly to retrieve it. A Type 9 gearbox 'must' have a gasket between the gearbox and bellhousing, along with sealant around the selector rod hole as changing gear shifts oil along the shaft into the g/box bellhousing joint. (Although I understand no gasket is required with a 6 speed). Malcolm

Trunnions must be regularly serviced otherwise they will fail. Servicing entails oiling (EP90) or greasing (automotive grease) the trunnion via an installed nipple. The choice of oil or grease....well, that's up to you. There are volumes written on the pro/cons of either, and I'm not starting that one here! Malcolm

£985 for a cambelt and fluids change? That seems rather on the expensive side. Good luck with the sale, though.

Try Mardi Gras Motorsport 01327 858006 www.mardigras.co.uk In 2013 replaced a similiar looking VDO oil pressure sender on my 94 K series car. Part 360.081/029/010 Pressure sender 10 bar M10x1mm Note, if yours is on a Ford block, the thread is likely to be NPT, rather than the metric one above. Malcolm

I agree with the proposal, even although my tyre warmer beat me 50% of the time Roy, you're talking Malcolm

Thanks Justin, Rob and others for all your work on this. Given Saturday's wind forecast (23 gusting 35 mph) in addition to the rain, the garages will be welcome! Malcolm