Englishmaninwales

ABWT 10-EU PTFE Lined Stainless Steel Spherical plain bearing 5/8 x 1-3/16 x 3/4 x 9/16 inch from www.simplybearings.co.uk @£32.30 +VAT. (Or Caterham £44.93 + VAT)

CC have modified this arrangement (wide track only) under the spherical bearing. The special turned down nyloc is deleted, replaced by a top hat spacer (3ACZ0019C) and plain 1/2” UNF half nyloc (NFH1/2). I understand this is to move the nyloc downwards to reduce the risk for the nyloc contacting the rim of the recess for the spherical bearing on full suspension droop. But note, earlier uprights do not have sufficient thread to accommodate this set up, so starts to get expensive if one needs to replace the upright. Malcolm Edit - Apologies - I see this was covered in an earlier post!

Just as a further remark, in addition to the selector seal, I have also had an oil leak from the first motion shaft / housing oil seal in the front housing on my 5 speed, I think the 6 speed arrangement is identical The seal and housing to gearbox cork gasket (5 and 4 in diagram in RJ’s post above) are available from BGH Geartech or Road and Race. When re-fitting the housing with the new seal , lubricate the seal lip with oil and gently rotate the housing/seal 1/4 turn into position, so the seal lip locates correctly on the shaft and not turned over. The cork housing seal should not have sealant as this will cause the gasket to extrude on tightening the locating set screws. Malcolm

Yes. Remove the release bearing assembly and clutch arm. Put a jack under the gearbox for support (which should already be there at engine removal stage). Undo the 4 bolts and the belltank can be removed from the gearbox, usually needs a bit of help with a rubber mallet. Your oil leak will be from the gearbox selector rail oil seal. On reassembly, use silicone sealant around this area. No gasket with 6 speed, but there is with 5 speed. Malcolm

+1

I’d consider changing to a right angle drive, although the cost might be a bit of a shocker!! https://www.burtonpower.com/90-degree-speedo-drive-adaptor-gbt9560.html

Ford diff breather - these are very brittle and snap easily, so care on refitting the diff. They are generally unavailable, although found one on eBay. R+R can supply a re-manufactured replacement. As my car is only for track use, I attached a vertical pipe to a catch tank in the boot.

Just repaired mine, but it was damaged from my own stupidity for letting it rest on the exhaust collector whilst running😂

You need to pick a gap through the UJ without the grease nipple otherwise the screwdriver won’t fit through.

I jam the prop with a hefty screwdriver through the front UJ and lower tunnel chassis tube. Socket with an extension on the prop bolt, with everything correctly lined up. Never done any damage.

Probably!😂

Tut! Tut! Can’t use the term ‘slave’ anymore! Go to the back of the queue! https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-10956915/Woke-Jaguar-Land-Rover-bosses-ban-word-slave.html 😂🤐

Thanks Chris for that link, I was looking under ‘results’ in the Competitors section 👌

Clive, I think following the upgrade to the website, the link to the download for 2023 results has not yet been created. Plus the 2023 records have not been edited yet. Malcolm

I would support any/all of the non championship hillclimb rounds (Gurston, Harewood, Prescott, Loton Park) being promoted to championship rounds. Plus a return to Wiscombe for 2025 (unfortunately I had to withdraw my entry at the last minute in 2023 due to illness). There are some anti Loton views expressed above. I know they treated our entries poorly in 2022 and they continue putting us on the sloped grass paddock which is less than ideal, it is nevertheless a top UK venue and I’d encourage the CL7C to continue its support for the event. Far better to go there than Aintree! If numbers stay marginal, drop running our own events at Curborough. Save the financial risk and a shed load of organisation! Edit to add: We can still go there as an invited club, either by Shenstone or BMMC. (Alan, no doubt you’ll disagree with me 😛) Malcolm

Agreed, during run in, I was advised to avoid prolonged periods of idle and to do repetitive 3-5k 3rd gear accelerations with WOT to maximise cylinder pressures to bed the rings in.

I’m not an automotive engineer and I’m probably wrong, but would a scavenge pump’s efficiency for oil suction for an engine sump that is a partial vacuum be lower than if the sump is at atmospheric pressure ? ( I take your point though for less oil aeration).

Being engraved onto best Welsh slate as we speak.

Maybe some or all of the non Championship invited events could be elevated to Championship qualifiers?

+1 for the Caterham specific Schroth harness.

Really common problem on the 1400 SS idle control stepper. Broken solder joints on the circuit board and corroded TPS/stepper harness plugs plus the need (on my car) to shim the RHS engine mount to prevent the TB /stepper housing fouling the chassis tube. I’ve been able to pick up complete TB/stepper units on eBay over the years.

Here you go - fixed via 2 set screws through the timing strut flange (at right angles to the timing strut in this picture) and grill to a plate with a couple of rivnuts.

Numerous instances of number plates coming off - kerbs, grassy excursions etc. I fix mine, as per Justin’s advice, to the grill. Malcolm

Dom you have a PM about the seat runners. Cheers, Malcolm

Pair of indicator repeaters complete with bases, bulbs, undamaged lenses, lens attachment screws and gaskets. Working order, chrome bases could do with a polish. Additional spare pair of lens/base/gasket/attachment screw. £10 plus P+P. Malcolm