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Badger Bill

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Everything posted by Badger Bill

  1. Ultimate sleeper here. Brilliant and bonkers in equal measure. BB
  2. Fair doos. Our other 9-5 I got from Shetland Isles... Hell, if you are serious, get it inspected and, if it passses, I'll drive it to you! BB
  3. Bad form on the war paint. I tend to go for the American Football style twin stripes on the cheeks with a KISS inspired eye star on the left. Although you can't see the stripes when I sit down... Back to the point, my old donk (I no longer have the car) was an ex-race 1.4 SuperSport which had no stat when I bought it and it's head was definitely goosed, so the no-stat theory might be a misnomer. BB
  4. I used a std 2 ton-er with custom cut composite lifting boards that I pushed/drove the car on to increase the space under the car. Never failed to work for me. BB
  5. Picked up on the rumour that something in the thermostat is pressure sensitive, so if you do rev 'em a little bit some coolant is pushed past it, meaning that the stuff in the rad is warmed slightly too, reducing the thermal shock bit. So better to drive off and warm it up on the move, rather than leave it warming up whilst you finish closing the garage, fiddling with belts, putting on mascara/lipstick, etc. MAV put my donk back together after it had been soundly neglected by it former owner, replaced the plastic dowels, putting on a new land rover gasket and head bolts, etc, replaced 'stat with an 82Deg item, and it did not miss a beat for the next 10k miles, no need for a coolant top-up or anything, and it was never warmed up on the drive. Don't know if anyone has an opinion on the above, but it worked for me. BB
  6. That brings back memories... (old) BB
  7. I experienced your exact symptoms on my 1.4 k-series, albeiton the road. It turned out to be a combination of slightly (and I mean very slightly) low, aged oil. By aged, I mean about 3k miles or so. Easy fix was an oil and filter change, solved it right away. The other option that I looked at, both to give more longevity to the oil and reduce the chance of it running low, was an Apollo tank (caterham have it as an air/oil seperator). These hold slightly more oil than a conventional system, so offer a bit more protection than nothing at all, but conventional wisdom has it that just keeping your standard system in tip-top shape is probably the best use of your time and money. BB PS I used the std Halfrauds motorsport oil, whatever grade that was, think it was 5/40.
  8. re: Turbo Technics, yes OK, past is past, but these VNT's are a different kettle of fish. Re-man is not really the best option in my opinion. BB
  9. Ignore! In fact, if you read it, avoid this supplier at all costs! BTN is the place, I have pm'd you with the contact details and reasons. Just spoke to my man, and he is of the opinion that from the history (oil pump failure) and symptoms that you have been given from VW, it is most likely to be the bearings that are trashed due to oil starvation when the oil pump let go. A very rare thing apparently, normally down to a poor maintenance routine, or sub-optimal oils being used. However you should see an increased consumption of oil and smoke out of the exhaust (bluey white). But at the rates that Audi are going to charge you, even if they go 50/50 on costs, it is going to be cheaper doing it via an independent. What he did say was that it is very important that the rest of the fuelling system is checked out, as it could be a faulty injector, hose, filter, etc. and just replacing the turbo will only remedy the symptoms, not the problem if one of these non-turbo parts are not functioning to spec. Good luck. BB Edited by - Badger Bill on 22 Jun 2010 12:05:29
  10. One thing to check first, the VNT actuator. If it is under boosting, it might be faulty... Think that your Garrett turbo part number is 757042-0010. BB
  11. Word on the street is that some models do have issues with the VNT ring getting clogged and it is terminal for the turbo. However what caused it to fail in the first place is the important part, as a new until will only fail in the same way again some time in the future, so check out hoses, injectors, fault codes, etc. New turbo (should be a Garrett item) is around £7-800 outside of VW land, and it is a plug and play item, so a reputable specalist will be able to do it fine. Still waiting for my contact to give the inside word on the unit, so I'll update this as soon as I get anything. BB
  12. Which motor is it, and did they say which vanes, i.e. the ones on the wheels or the ones controlled by the VNT ring, if it has one? Personally I have not heard of the issue, but I have sent the info to a man who can, and see what he comes back with. BB
  13. essex engines? No actual experience of them, but plenty of info no the website that could be useful even if your man doesn't use them. BB
  14. Having pax'd in the MAVmobile (although not in the 'States), I concurr with the statement above BB
  15. Badger Bill

    ............... BB
  16. I saw that show! 😳 😶‍🌫️ Have you been to Thailand too? BB
  17. WOW What a lovely looking car 🥰 Great spec and good price, can't see it being for sale for long. Good luck BB
  18. Erm, yeah, sorry about that... BB
  19. If you want to use it as the designers intended (i.e. FIA compliant, on a LSOC trackday, etc), then yes, you do. I guess that there is some worth in just using the bit that sits over the chassis top rail and bolts through the outside of the car where it is not required to conform to regulations, but it would not do the performance of the cage any favours should you ever need it. Word on the street is that it stiffens up the car, improves handling, looks cool and promotes hair growth... Go-on, get the drill out, extra special rates for you, following the heckling you gave me when Caterham Team visited us in Feb... ...£200 😳 😬 . BB
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