Slipper man
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Everything posted by Slipper man
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For what its worth, I would always go for the 6 speed option, and get the final drive right for the cruising I wanted to do. I have a k series R500 and even with that, when I am not in the mood to really go for it, I use alternate gears - going from 2 to 4 to 6. It has more than enough torque to do that, and can normal start in 2nd gear. The CSR should have much more torque than my car, so I would have no worries about making first too high.
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Its actually a magnetti marelli part. I will look up the bits on ebay as suggested though
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Does anyone know who can refurbish my K series alternator? It seems ok (bearings etc) bot there is an electrical bit under the black cover that looks a bit like a fuse on which the copper wires that connect it to the alternator have melted. I a near Caterham. I have bought a new one on ebay for £75, but thought it might make sense to refurbish the original to keep as a spare
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Don't mount the catch tank at the front of the car. Caterham did that with the early R500's and there were instances of oil from the catch tank getting on the drive belts with disastrous consequences. I mounted mine on the front of the heater with sikaflex
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I live close to you and have similar usage. Removed mine a few years back and never regretted it. To be honest I don't seem to get any colder without it than I did with. I put that down to the fact that when your feet are nicely toasted, it makes your top parts seem even cooler. To me the benefit of the better access to everything under the bonnet outweighs the loss of heating
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What tyres are you running? I have different sized rear slicks (54cm and 57 cm), which make a significant difference to the 'urgency' of the acceleration (and this is an R500), but the larger tyres stop me over revving at fast tracks. I would suggest that you go that route at first as it is much cheaper and easily reversed. As Arnie says, f you go the 3.62 route I am sure you would regret it. My car had a 3.62 diff and I converted it to 3.92 Edited by - Slipper man on 11 Nov 2011 23:29:52
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Or just wait till Dave Morrell (A10ROX) has done a couple of track days on his and make him an offer - he can only drive on new slicks Edited by - Slipper man on 4 Sep 2011 19:32:26
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One word of warning (not strictly related to the nitrons/bi stein issue). Earlier this year I tried to 'upgrade' my springs to the standard Caterham race setup. The result was awful on the road, to the point of being dangerous on bumpy surrey roads. Instead of riding the bumps, it bounced across the tops and wet grip and braking were terrible. On smooth race circuits it may be fine, but for road use the standard setup is much better, so I swapped them back again!
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How highly tuned is it? Ifyou are using top quality synthetic oil you will not need to change for another 5000 miles or so. Which pro bay meats an annual change will be fine or most cars
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I think 2.5 deg at the front and the normal ears for radials at the rear. Iirc, that is 1.5 deg, but unless the car has been set up for cross plus, it will be the standard setup. The thing that makes a lot of difference is the toe at the front. Standard setup is close to zero, but I prefer a little toe out myself - makes it more 'pointy'
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I got myself a Gunson Trackrite. Very cheap (£40) and seems to do the job just fine as far as I can tell. How much did the corner scales cost, as a matter of interest? Caterham want £320 to do a flat floor set up, which I am sure is a realistic price, but all I really want is to borrow the corner scales - I can do the adjustments myself
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I have discovered that my tow bar socket was incorrectly wired and that the foglight terminal was wired to the reversing light. In the process of fixing this, I discovered that the earth terminal of the socket had around 0.3v relative to the car's chassis. I presume this is why when you flashed the indicators, all the trailer lights dimmed in synch. What I can't understand is where this voltage comes from. I have solved the problem by attaching a separate earth directly to the chassis, but without knowing why there was a voltage there in the first place I am afraid that all I have done is bodge it, which doesn't make me feel comfortable. Can anyone explain the voltage across the earth terminal to the vehicle chassis?
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18 hot is what I have always used too
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I wondered about that too, Paul. The thing that is still confusing me is the voltage. Presumably the two wires to the fan are positive and earth. If so and it is showing a difference of 12v+, why doesn't the fan start?
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Is that the one on the bulkhead? The thing i can't understand is the voltage. If the relay wasn't working, wouldn't the voltage be either 12v all the time or zero?
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I have a strange problem with my radiator fan. It is the ECU controlled version, which used to come on when the Stack showed 84 deg. In the past few days it has stopped working. When I disconnect the fan and put a spare battery across the fan's terminals, it works fine. the wires to the fan show 0 volts until the temperature reaches 84 deg, then shows 12-14v depending on engine revs. And yet the fan doesn't come on! any ideas?
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Don't know what is normal on a vvc, but on the R500, the ecu starts to retort the ignition at 84 deg, so over 90 sounds a bit hot to me
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Roy - if the brakes are not feeling that good, you may have some air in them. The standard R500 pads are just fine. I had issues with mine for many years untill Andy MacMillan showed me how to knock the final air bubbles out of the calipers. Made all the difference (assuming you have the race master cylinder - if not, get one fitted as it rs storms the brakes)
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Sikaflex works fine, but as M25 says, it is essential to 'wrap' the bond the glue right around the support
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Carbon nose cone from my 2000 R500. Slightly damaged, but capable of being repaired for painting. Contribution to NTL is all I want for it.
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Jason is still trading. He has just built an engine for me. Wonderful job he has done too. He works from an office on the Janspeed site, but is independent of them
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Thanks, Dave. I will get another spigot.
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I have a different issue. I have an engine that has been built from parts I had spare, but when I come to fit the ancillaries, I realise that the distributor drive is from a shaft that is driven from the inlet camshaft. I need to attach the distributor to the new engine but can't see how to remove the shaft from the camshaft of the old engine and install it on the new one. Is it just an interference fit? Do you just use a pulled to get it off? How do you install it on the new engine (and no, I don't want to go to the effort of changing to the later ignition system !)
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I use one of these all the time (though mine attaches to an air line). People get too stressed about changing all the oil in cars with large dry sump tanks. The purpose is to get rid of the majority of old oil that may have deteriorated and replace it with oil that still has the correct characteristics. You don't need to remove every last drop. Swarfe is not the problem most people assume either as modern oil filters are so efficient that they will pick up any bits in the unlikely event that there are any
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Thanks all. I will get one. Thanks for the offer Dave, but that's £8 more than new ones are available for on eBay! Roger - why couldn't you driver straight over it? Your garage was big enough I would have thought. Is mine big enough?
