k.russell

just fitted a new clutch in my VX and the bite point is high in relation to how it was prior to fitting. i have slackened the adjuster and this has brought the pedal down nicely. thinking of adding a clutch pedal stop to aid gear changes.

You need acrylic mirror sheet not glass, perhaps eBay or local plastics firm, easy to hacksaw or dremel, double side tape or silicon to fit

here

found some pics

if anyone else has any lowback JPE seats please pm me. i also have a low back seat request in the wanted section.

looks like 3rd dibs then for me if others dont want them. thanks for the info guys, i had spoken to to DC and they confirmed there were no longer any molds there.

Does anyone know the origins of the low back Kevlar seats fitted to the JPEs ?

my droplink were making exactly that noise, in exactly the same circumstances. changed them, noise gone. no watts link on my car.

Thanks John, its not for my car, still usefull info, i will look into this and pass it on.

To clarify grp race style seat

For series 3 caterham, anything considered. Two would be better

Hi 2GBR my cage was from caged with the brackets already welded in as shown below

thanks Nick, had completely forgotten.

Tried to upload a pic of my new screen from meteor but link doesn't seem to work https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/z-PWi_xRSAL7msCuT06KZdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

had a knock for a while, couldnt put my finger on it, my de dion snapped in half in the meantime,, but the knock was still there. had my suspisions and just confirmed it was the ball joint on the end of the anti roll bar clicking and amplifying up the anti roll bar. have put some old ball joints on and the knock is gone.

Strange that roger as I'm sure I didn't do it and I have had from new, will definitely look into something different as it'd a pain to fit

Ok Thanks Guys. will have a look at that arrangement Jason.

I am not good at understanding electrical systems, but trying to understand how the battery, starter, alternater, ignition are wired in my car, a VX with factory wiring. could someone please explain, in really simple terms 😳 how the battery starts the car and then how the alternator then takes over to run the engine, and how the current flows through to the ignition switch fuse box etc. with other thread mentioning the wires are full of smoke, i dont want to loose any 😬 I am trying to fit up a Cartek battery isolator and need to understand, if i can what the alternator is throwing back, and where to, the wiring diagram i have from when i biult the kit 20 odd years ago does not offer me much info. i have a thick red wire from battety to starter on the same starter connection i have two brown , one thick one thin. alternator wiring as in the pic below. i have the thick brown wire at the ign switch. I am going to study John Dickens Automotive Electrics A Practical Guide but any simple advice very welcome

is my car different to others 🤔 my starter is bolted on with a caphead screw from the rear of the bellhousing, , it is a bugger to get at, against the drivers footwell. this is passed through a unthreaded hole in the engine block casting and into a threaded starter motor. the lower smaller caphead treads into the engine block casting from the starter moter side.

has anyone fitted a cartek battery isolator. I need some advice to fit into the sevens electrical sysem. here are the "simple" wiring instructions i have the thick brown wire, think this is alternator feed to ign,split under dash from my old electronic isolator. here

Interested John, will mail you.

Steve, i couldnt get your email address from the email you sent me as it came to my iphone (private blatmail) and not appearing on my PC. if you could send another email please. these are the runners, came with my tillets.

Have some spare, will take pic later to make sure they are what you want