J.R.

Angus Assuming pre-engaged starter then the one way or sprag clutch within the pinion needs replacing. A lot cheaper than an exchange starter if you can find a specialist that wil repair it rather than try to flog you a new one. See you at Croix next month.

Trevor "rather regretting it now" Dont forget that comment, you might end up using it a lot! - hope you dont though.

Drop it off a trolley jack whilst running in top gear at about 3K RPM with the clutch depressed and throttle down.

Went through 2 new 254 cams like this, both replaced F.O.C. but no contibution to the damaged dry sump pumps each time. If the engine is ever run backwards with ignition on i.e a spin without declutching or kickback on cranking, it will knock off the inlet lobe that tries tries to open against the exploding mixture (whilst turning backwards). The bigger the valve head the more chance of this happening. I only cured it by wiring ignition to a seperate button to latch in after engine up to cranking speed, - too much static advance had been causing kickback

Laygear cluster bearings

One of the most common problems when using an easi-bleed is too much pressure overcoming the master cylinder cap seal & spraying brake fluid everwhere (same can happen with bad sealing). It is very important to let out some of the pressure from the tyre pressurizing the system (its in the instructions) about 10 P.S.I. is plenty

Engines with running gear? eg. injectors, loom, ecu, rectifier etc. Dry sump, modified sump, standard sump?

Arnie Will phone you

Dan J. They were the standard offering, check in the Rally Design catalogue.

Long wait for my reply! I used the 4 pot Dynalite calipers and amde my own mountings to fit the standard disc. I retained the standard master cylinder although it is an older car -1986 vintage. The set up works very well and is considerably lighter than standard, no problems with pad taper or brake bias imbalance. Would recommend it as cheap, good but requiring some fabrication.

Back to top. Price reduced

You have a faulty seal in the master cylinder. Try very slowly depressing the pedal with little force (or even down a bit, back a tiny bit then down a bit etc etc) and it will probably go to the floor compared with a sharp hard stab where you will have a firm pedal. If above replace immediately or brake later and harder!!!!!

Set of 6J * 13 " Revolution 4 spokes with white stoved & lacquered centres. Excellent condition complete with sleeve nuts & centre caps. Offsets etc for Caterham De-Dion fitment. Shod with part worn Avon racing slicks 20" dia. Suitable race or track day - £220 ono Set of old but unique 5 1/2 J * 13" alloys powder coated Ali silver. Shod with Hoosier control slicks (these have 2 circumferential rain grooves) 22" dia, plenty of tread left. Suitable De-Dion - good offset to fill arches Ideal for track days. - £100 o.n.o with 1 spare slick. Carriage can be arranged at cost. Edited by - J.R. on 7 Sep 2002 13:43:27

Alcohol induced memory loss. Will check tonight!

Steve Think I may have, will check when I get home. Are you Steve W from West Sussex?

The oxo cube (turd) type bars leak works so well that it can block the pressure cap overflow tube bore (6mm!!!). This happened on my steel X/flow and because the engine could not vent the excess pressure and coolant one of the rad hoses exploded - very impressive. I always carry it as a get you home / back on track bodge but would never leave it in the system again.

If you still have problem when next on track try tweaking your driving style. It can be done during the session and is a lot quicker than fiddling with suspension. Brake later right up to the turn point and turn in quite aggressively whilst still hard on the brakes, you should find that the weight transfer on to the front will make it dart in the direction you want to go. You have to be very fast getting off the brakes and on to the throttle whilst simultaneously catching the snap oversteer. Lots of fun but arguably no quicker than slow in fast out. PLEASE TRY THIS ON SLOW BENDS FIRST!!! Blame someone else if you come to grief.

Eighteen pounds a pair from one of the Locost suppliers at Stoneleigh , I am pretty sure that that it was LOLOCOST . I inspected them carefully and they were exactly the same right down to the Sprite caravan backing plates

I have watched with interest your various postings get little or no response. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but I believe that your car is significantly overpriced. I should explain that I sold my very similar Zetec car this summer. It was probably a higher spec car than yours as it was a later (1997) double wishbone chassis, - I note that your has an extra wishbone link making it pre 90?. Anyway after trying to sell my immaculate car on this forum and only getting requests for photos (why??? - I would want to see a car in the flesh) I finally sold it to an enthusiast at Stoneliegh for £8750. So you see it would appear that you are perhaps 5 grand overpriced. If it is of any consolation you probably have a far better car than the 16k Rover powred ones on this site but sadly not valued as such ☹️

Fitted willwood dynalite calipers , - made mounting brackets. Very pleased with results. Cost about £95 each IIRC. Pads are readily available from either Rally Design or Sejoc or EBC (cheap!).

Bet it is what Roger King suggested, had the same problem myself, exactly the same symptoms. You will also probably see fuel dribbling form out of the retaining screw hole.

The problem you have is almost certainly the main isolator circuit (large leads) not disconnecting when the key is removed (usually sticky contacts) whereas the alternator bleed circuit (spade terminals) is making contact in the correct manner. This would cause full battery current to flow through the wire wound resistor. I have taken apart many after failure and found that the cheapest (about 3 quid) actually are the most reliable (but dont have the secondary circuit). the internal construction of the contacts taking the full starter current have to be seen to be believed. Many man hours have been wasted on faultfinding and many a race has been lost due to these automotive chocolate teapots. I now use a standard 2 pole automotive relay (cost 40p) and two small pushbuttons , one normally open, one normally closed; wired through a latching circuit to provide full circuit isolation and also anti theft. Looks much smarter and 100% reliable.

If I manage to find a JPE type deflector (see posting) then I have a new drivers side one that you can buy. watch this space!

WANTED JPE type wind deflector / full width aeroscreen. Can arrange collection.

Greg I have one if you want to try it at the weekend ( edited - noise tester that is!). I live near Gatwick Edited by - J.R. on 8 Aug 2002 17:45:32