J.R.

Firing order is 1,3,4,2. with the engine rotating clockwise viewed from the front. The distributor rotor rotates anti-clockwise due to the spur gear. This results in the conflict of views. Looking at the dizzy cap it is 1,3,4,2 in the correct ANTI-CLOCKWISE rotation Or 1,2,4,3 if you choose to look at it in the incorrect clock-wise direction. As mentioned before with the crank at TDC on cylinder one the engine could be on the firing stroke of both cylinders 1 and 4, look at the valves on the opposite cylinder to confirm. Rocking on one = firing on four and vice-versa

Ade Replied to your E-mail on the 12th Abbreviated version: Crank journals -20, -30 thou £50 + delivery at cost

Trevor Not a motorcycle engine then!

Richard My posting should have read "clamshell wings" not cycle wings!!!

Richard I have a pair of unused (but probbaly faded) red cycle wings. One used white one. And a pair of mint unused pre-lit Westfield ones. You can have any or all of them F.O.C. I am in the South of England and will probably be visiting Northern France betwen now & Christmas,- Somme area. Could bring them if anywhere near you.

Pinion sprag (one way) clutch

"Trying it out on the drive" in the current temperatures is not the same as sitting in a hot summer traffic jam. FWIW my cars that would control their temps on the drive test would overheat in traffic jams in the same temp conditions. Obviously there is a lot of heat coming from the cars around but I also believe that the exhaust gases present in the air going into the engine raise the combustion temperatures. I now test the cars with a towel draped over the front of the rad, the suction from the fan holds it in place, if it doesnt overheat then it is alright in traffic.

Ade I have a tuftrided X flow crankshaft, it has been unused since heat treatment. Not sure if it was new or was reground before tuftriding. Will check the journal diameters if you are interested. Price £50 + delivery

Trevor It should have "Ford" or if very old "EnFo" stamped on the perifery of the crownwheel.

Trevor My mate with the trick Mk 1 Cortina is looking for a 4.4:1 CWP but only wants to spend £125, - he has been offered another one for not much more. Is it an original Ford CWP or one of the liquorice repros? Let me know if you want me to put him in touch with you.

Tim Apologies. Posting now edited.

Happy ending. Boots arrived today, posted 29-11

What you are missing is that the subject is a Cosworth for sale and the seller is inviting interested potential purchasers to respond. Edited by - J.R. on 2 Dec 2002 11:34:52 Edited by - J.R. on 3 Dec 2002 11:26:46

Simon Cheque has been cleared but no boots have arrived. Your mobile phone number does is permanently switched off. When I called the home number you gave me they had never heard of you. Tell me that I havn't been ripped off *eek* I do hope that there has been some mistake, after buying and selling many times on blatchat I have dealt with and met some great people but unfortunatley this episode will make me be much more reticent in future.

I used a carcoon (internal type) outside for a whole year, partially covered by a carport, in driving rain conditions a "pond" would form on the top & the water would eventually leak through the seams & collect on the base. After a long period of time the base was swimming in water BUT the car was dry and suffered no corrosion whatsoever, I know this to be true because I left a strip of angle ground bare metal on the scuttle and there was not even a spot of rust. It would appear that despite the significant volume of water on the floor there was no humidity to speak of above it, probably due to the movement of air across the car from the fans. So to recap - Carcoon is brilliant at stopping damp and rust. A well ventilated garage as described above must also have some benefits.

Just to confirm the history of Peters engine, it was a cracker when I sold it & with the cams he has fitted it gives more power than the 2 litre I replaced it with.

Adrian Elkin (surrey organiser was looking for some of these)

Simon Cheque went in post yesterday - if you will pardon the pun

At last someone -ED has stated the obvious. Are both back tyres the same rolling diameter or is one worn?. This would create squirm and extra power loss.

To answer your question the fugstirrer type of heater (as opposed to fresh air)is very similar to an early land rover unit. You will have to fabricate the angled side pieces (like a wedge of cheese) but otherwise wil fit straight in, I have done this before. It also has a slightly bigger matrix. The best improvement I ever made to cockpit warmth was to ditch the heater and take off the windscreen, the engine heat was then more than enough to heat the car (not being sucked out by airflow). I would never have a heater or windscreen again.

You have mail

Wikkid De westfield am de car wot caterum did copy for dere kit cars. SEIW = SEi wikkid!!

I have sent you an E-mail

No (if not fitted). If fitted must be automatically operated. OR manual switch must illuminate to show if light on Edited by - J.R. on 15 Oct 2002 16:58:51

Angus Generally speaking with relatively newish road tyres they will recover to the extent that you will not be able to tell the difference. In racing where one competitor is on ACB10's or A032R's often they will lead for a couple of laps until "the tyres go off" - analysis of the lap times will actually show them dropping back due to the slick shod racers tyres reaching their optimum temperature and lapping faster. The lap times of the road tyres do not increase significantly and will usually recover for the next race. Hard (endurance or GT) compound slicks on a light vehicle like the 7 usually do not "go off" during a race but lap times will gradually deteriorate on subsequent meetings as the tyre ages (correct storage is quite important). Soft compound slicks if overdriven will go off and reduce lap times and will only partially recover for the next meeting. The front runners wiil often sell off their part worn slicks after just one meeting. The rest of us determined to get every penny of wear out of our slicks struggle with progressively worsening handling. When changing to new slicks often the initial slow "bedding in laps" will be as fast as the old tyres and the car will lap as quick without trying compared to the lurid slides etc of the old ones. Bit of a long answer, - I suspect that the A032R super soft compound will behave more like a slick than a road tyre, which we may see in november at Croix I hope.