J.R.

Firts of all I am basing these comments on my knowledge and experience of cross flow crankshafts, this may not necessarily be true of moderm manufacture of the K series. The standard cast X/flow crank is easily distinguished by the bare cast surface on all unmachined surfaces (together with some ground off flash marks at the parting line). The billet machined cranks can be seen to be machined all over - i.e. no cast or forged surfaces present. The forged ones are similar to cast but have a "forged finish" (similar to con rods) on the unmachined surfaces. I have used all 3 types of X/flow cranks, goodness knows how much it must have cost to tool up for the forged one, but I think it was a Ford part made for the BDT engine. We once tried straightening a bent cast X/flow crank which not surprisingly snapped, the engine reconditioner expected this and said that we would have had more luck with a mini crank as it was forged. A shot peened finish will disguise a billet machined or forged crank but is unlikely to have been done to a cast crank. A harmonic damper pulley is simplistically a spring mass system designed to remove harmonics at a given frequency (and hence multiple thereof). The rubber drive belts will not contribute anything to this effect. A colleague has just built a 1925cc pre crossflow engine with a billet machined stroker crank, this regularly shook loose the crank pulley bolt until a harmonic pulley from a different engine was modified to fit. Edited by - J.R. on 16 Jan 2003 15:37:41

The LED clusters are available from RS components, stock code 262 3015 @ £13.42 + VAT. There are also smaller ones suitable for shift lights etc. It is wise to fit a series resistor to limit the forward current to 200ma, but I know of several people who did not realise and they are still working fine, WWW/rswww.com

Ditto what Dan B. says Use Castrol superbike oil, which differs from the synthetic car equivalent only in the friction modifiers mentioned. It is very easy to "ride" the clutch in a Caterham due to the positioning and lightness of the clutch pedal, this may not be noticeable under part load but will greatly increase the temp and wear the plates. I have used a standard clutch with preloaded springs (washers) and also the kevlar plate type with "car" synthetic oil both for a couple of thousand road and track miles, but will be using superbike oil from now on, - although the plates are probably contaminated. Also I dont do drag starts even when racing, at the last race of last season an identical Caterham blackbird driven by a guest racing driver had outqualified me to first place. I only used part throtle and about 3K revs to get off the line and booted it once traction made and clutch fuly engaged, I am sure the other driver must have used loads of revs as he dropped back nearly to the back of the grid on the first lap. How many miles are you doing and how are you treating the clutch before problems? Is the clutch releasing fully if hydraulic as mentioned or if mechanical do you have free play? Is the engine dry sumped? - oil temperatures can get very high using a Mistral or other modified sump, this may affect the clutch operation dependant on oil used etc.

I have a 72 litre tank which has been made by welding together two standard tanks (one above the other). Fits in fine and still has limited boot space left (De-Dion chassis) almost as much as the live axle boot. Standard fuel guage would only work on the first 36 litres though

Wanted JPE type wind deflector, any condition considered as my caterham is rather agricultural! Can arrange collection

Also interested in the black 6 point if not already sold or spoken for. Can arrange collection if required.

Thanks Merrick Now have one black Luke caterham belt and one red Willans (as above). Anyone got one of either for sale so I can have a matching pair?

Merrick Will phone you. Now need one more black one to make a matching pair, - anyone else got one?

Peter C. I have removed many spigot bearings (both needle roller and solid) from Ford carnkshafts (X/flow & Zetec) using the grease method and it has never yet failed me, messy yes! but always successfull. Perhaps you have tried using a sloppy fitting universal alignment tool?. I either use my spare gearbox input shaft or a mandrel turned to a close fit.

It can take a very long time for any coolant accumulation (from the preceding gasket failure) in the exhaust to vaporise especially on short journeys in the current cold weather. Go for a long (15-20 mile) drive at higher than urban speeds whilst keeping a watchfull eye on the temp guage. I recently did a Rover head gasket & cam belt etc for my neighbour and the steam coming out even after about 5 miles of driving around the village made me think I would have to start again. A high speed run of about 10 miles on the motorway cured it. Most engines in the current weather steam at idle until fully warmed up.

That unfortunately would involve getting out of the car

One required to match my existing : Willans Q/R aircraft buckle 3 inch shoulder, 2 inch lap straps in red. Manufacturer not important but must be Q/R buckle, 3 inch shoulder straps & red. Or pair with black webbing same spec. Can arrange collection.

Thanks people! Chelspeed, I agree about setting speedo from rolling circumference, I was more concerned about what speed equated to max revs. I have also E-mailed you regarding tunnel cover

I'll have it. Chelspeed - you have mail

Have two bike engined Caterhams, the one I converted has a 3.38 diff. The other was geared for the ring and has a lower ratio (approx) 3.2 Is this the correct ratio (i.e. 10 tooth to 32 tooth) or does anyone know the exact ratio and CWP tooth count? Was fitted to a few Sierra Diesels and possibly automatic estates. I want to get the exact figure to calibrate the stack dash

Terry I live in the same area as you and use Keith Deering garage at Alfold Surrey for all our cars, bit of a treck but Graham the chief tester is a seven owner and good friend, tell him I sent you. No need to book but phone is 01403 753278 if you need it. He has been complimented on this site by others, lets you watch, asks you where you want him to lift chassis etc.

Chelspeed If Dion didnt buy your cover, how much do you want for it?

I have in the past bored a 681F block (pre 711m) to 85.6mm and an AX block to 86.25 without problems. The pre 711m block was also sverely rusted in the waterways as it had been left standing outside with plain water in the jacket for several years. Give it a go, if it fails a pressure test after then get it linered. I have a set of as new 85.6mm forged (cosworth) X/flow pistons if you want to make an offer.

Hoopy Sounds like you dont throw anything away either! Is your "apparently" undamaged rack the (allegedly) 22% one? My car has a good pinion but slightly bent rack (was a lot bent before much straightening) which I have to run with the damper slack to avoid stiffness on RH lock. Now running A032R's It is very twitchy on bumpy roads and I want to tighten the damper but cant. Can you help?

"£800 for the narrow track kit" ?? Wow! didnt realise how much I had saved when I bought the wishbones and anti roll bar off of blatchat for £20ish and modified my uprights on the lathe. What comes in the kit other than 4 wishbones and two uprights? maybe the bolt on upper links which I now recall buying from redline at abou 12 quid or so each. But £800???

"£800 for the narrow track kit" ?? Wow! didnt realise how much I had saved when I bought the wishbones off of blatchat for £20ish and modified my uprights on the lathe. What comes in the kit other than 4 wishbones and two uprights? maybe the bolt on upper links which I now recall buying from redline at abou 12 quid or so each. But £800???

Rob does mention torque although I rather hope that he is trying to express a "moment" (force mutiplied by distance) as opposed to a rotational torque. If the leverage ratio of the clutch arm is the same on the 6 speed as the 5 speed bellhousing then the mechanical advantage is in the region of 2.25:1 To be certain measure the clutch fork: divide the distance from cable location to fulcrum by the distance from the fulcrum to centre of CRB carrier. The resultant figure is the mechanical advantage (or leverage ratio) and should be multipied by the spring tension (at the fixed length when clutch released) to give the preload acting on the bearing. HNC's cant be what they used to be Edited by - J.R. on 20 Dec 2002 11:57:00

SWJB Perhaps you misunderstood me but I didnt make any comments about self adjusting. FWIW The Caterham set up is not and has to be adjusted to maintain free play, no free play = clutch slip very soon. Maybe I dont understand your posting but I was trying to get across the above and that if the CRB is preloaded by any means which does not allow the clutch mechanism to move the CRB and release arm back as it wears then the clutch will wear out "as sure as eggs is eggs" Unless of course you are constantly readjusting the thing including engine hot from cold. My solution would be to do what most manufacturers did: A tension spring between clutch arm and bellhousing to preload the CRB. Often in addition to this there is a stop (sometimes adjustable) fitted to limit the up position of the clutch pedal together with a small tension spring pulling the clutch pedal up against it when not in use (this is in the pedal box not bellhousing and does not act on the cable). This takes away any "dead feel" stops rattles and ensures that only the preload from the spring is acting on the CRB. Happy Christmas everyone

Bad idea (both of them) As the clutch wears it takes up free play in the cable. If the clutch arm is mechanically pre-loaded other than via a spring any wear in the clutch will increase the pre-load and decrease the clamping pressure. The clutch would slip in a within a very short mileage. Heat expansion of the clutch assembly and the cable would probably cause it to happen straight away.

Ade Still waiting to hear from you