JonathanP

I went for the Mocal gauge from Think as well: here's the fitted gauge and here's my notes on fitting, hope that helps.

😬 I'm really pleased its gone to a good home!

Hi Bobo, I've sent you a blatmail about my car which might be of interest. Jonathan

You drove past us on old Hunstanton Road in Heacham this evening - I was the idiot in the tin top flashing and waving 😬 Looked a nice evening for a blat Jonathan

Hi I was in the blue seven going the other way. Nice to get some warmth into the tyres (and driver!) 😬 Jonathan Edited by - JonathanP on 21 Feb 2009 16:39:11

Hi Geoff, Just on an off chance, if you happened to be selling one of the geared heads (410 or similar) I'd be interested... Jonathan

Sandy, I fitted the parts from Think probably 3 years ago now, and the gauge they supplied I thought matched the rest of the instruments well: here. Is that the one you got? Jonathan

Hi Andrew, My son is interested in the guitar - I've sent you a blatmail. Jonathan

And if anyone should know about long term Caterham storage... 😬 😬 😬 Edited by - JonathanP on 18 Aug 2008 17:41:54

Hi Paul, I went for option (2) with nyloc's - doesn't look too bad and I'm happy they're not going to come off! Jonathan Edited to say I'd recommend offering up the stanchion to your car before drilling just in case you've been sent the wrong one luckily I decided to check Edited by - JonathanP on 8 Aug 2008 18:23:54

Hi Graham, The captive nut retaining channels replace existing ones that don't have the plate with the nuts on - so its just a case of unbolting the old and on with the new. However, in my case, the captive nuts didn't quite line up with the holes in the bodywork - they were a bit lower, so I solved this by making a couple of shims out of 2mm ali and putting that below the retaining channels. There's more than enough stud sticking up to do that. Yes you need to remove the knee protectors mine are fitted with black self-tappers which you might want to use when refitting just in case you want to get in there in the future. There shouldn't be anything else to remove. Hope that helps, Jonathan

This evening you passed me on the A11 going south - one green with clam shells and a white R400. I was in the silver BMW flashing my headlights and waving Actually it was a double spot, since the green clam shells passed me again in Linton as I was about to turn in my drive, but you looked a bit puzzled as why this idiot kept flashing you 😬 Jonathan

I had a Draper conditioner that overcharged my battery (needed to keep topping it up ). Switched to CTEK 3600 and now battery keeps its charge and levels You're welcome to my Draper if I haven't binned it

I changed my 48 to a 52 when I visited Oily a couple of years ago. The main difference is that the std 48 has an extra "half moon" lump of plastic attached to the butterfly. This has the effect of limiting the opening at small amounts of throttle - I think designed to give a more gentle power rise for your tradditional Rover driver (don't want to dislodge that flat cap). The 52 metal TB has a flat butterfly without this restriction

Matt, Hope this might help - some notes and pictures I took when I fitted mine. It was quite an easy job. Jonathan

When I took mine off ('98 car) 4 years ago, to get it re-powder coated, Bruce fitted the strengthing gussets to it, so they can be retrofitted, but: Hmmm, now I'm a bit concerned, especially having had a look at Shaun's pictures, I'm not convinced the gusset would have helped much, looking at the position of the split. Jonathan

Hi Matthew, Did you install the Windows drivers that are on the Leopard install CD? It should contain drivers for all the hardware on your MacBook. I've not done the bootcamp on this MacBook, but on my son's MacBook Pro we just used the Leopard CD to provide the Windows drivers and it all works fine (Wireless, trackpad etc) in XP. Jonathan

I've just fitted a pair of the 5.75" stainless headlights this week, so not long enough to see how they weather, but I'm certainly pleased so far The're certainly as shiny as chrome when new! Build quality is good, you need to let them know its for a 7 so they supply the right length wires. I also went for the bulb upgrade. I think the smaller headlights suite the car much better... Jonathan

Both the stanchion and screens were in stock at Dartford a few days ago, I've nearly finished fitting mine. I believe the stanchion is made by Arch for CC, so unlikely you can source from elsewhere... Jonathan

Problem solved - after sleeping on it I decided to go for plan B - a drift and much larger hammer 😬 It came out quite easily then!

I'm trying to replace my headlamps - one just came off easily, but the other seems seized in the headlamp bracket. The nut came off OK but I can't "persuade" the headlight to come out. I thought of removing the whole bracket so I could turn it upside down and soak it in plusgas, but I can't see how to remove the bracket, as the upper wishbone seems to get in the way. Is there a way of doing this, or do I have to dismantle the suspension (surely not ) ? Thanks, Jonathan

Mav, thanks - I think I'm happier with the first method, its just that I've seen people advocate the turn off and measure quickly method, but that always seems to give a higher reading. Andy, if its just a bit over I think the main problem with a wet sump K series engine is that the oil will heat up more due to the action of the crankshaft. Worthwhile adding the switch/sensor to measure oil temp. if you don't already have it. Jonathan

OK I've searched the forum and read the 7FAQ, but I've still not 100% happy with measuring the oil level on my '98 1.8K with apollo. I've the all metal oil stick with the yellow handle (most of the references talk about the one with the plastic bit at the bottom). Assuming oil is hot and car on level ground, then the most consistent methods I've found are: - engine running and use a quick stabbing action. If I leave the stick in for more than half a second the splashed oil makes it impossible to get consistent measurements each time I do it. - switch engine off and immediately dip the stick. If I do this within 10secs of switching off the engine I get consistent results. Problem is, the above 2 methods whilst being consistent in their own right don't give the same answer. For example yesterday the "quick stab" was reading half way and the check immediately on switch off was over the mark. Has anyone any thoughts on which is likely to be giving a truer reading? Edited by - JonathanP on 6 May 2008 09:35:46

Angus, Thanks very much for posting the great comparison photos. I want to replace my original headlights this year as they are starting to look a bit tatty, and I'll be going the smaller route now Jonathan

This afternoon, at Haverhill near the Sainsburys roundabout. I was in the silver BMW, flashed & waved Jonathan