jimh

Someone heading west with luggage R300Y** passed me in my Defender on way to Cornwall. Judging by the hats you were feeling the cold

Here is a link to the Autocom and Starcom pinouts if anyone else is interested. here

The replacement I got from CC doesn't fit without modification as the white plunger and the threaded body are too long by about 1cm, the original one had been cut down with a hacksaw. I am now ordering one of the better quality ones.

Chaz, I spent ages investigating how to use a Starcom throat mic with my Autocom system even though the tech guy at Autocom thought it couldn't be done. I got the wiring diagrams from Autocom (who have now combined with Starcom) and ISTR that there is a mic sense wire on one system which does not exist on the other. I gave up in the end. Now I have made up Peltor headsets I'm really happy with the system, it was rubbish before with the Sensorcom in ear units.

I followed a lot of the advice from this thread and made myself a couple of sets of Peltor ll headsets for my Autocom system. I couldn't bear to pay the £95 that Autocom want for their Peltor l sets so I just purchased the helmet headsets from them and the ear defenders from Amazon. The installation was quite tricky due to my old age and poor close up eyesight. I found some small JST plugs in my old RC toolbox and I used these to join all the cables. It was a lot easier doing the soldering onto the crimp pins outside the ear defender shells. It was also easier to slide on heat shrink over each pin before I pushed them into the plastic plugs. Anyway I managed to get both completed and tested in the car on Saturday evening. I'm really happy with the result and wish I had made them sooner.

Darren at CC tells me it is this one: Switch - Brakelight - Mechanical Type Part Number : 51470 here

Does anyone happen to know which brake light switch the CSR260 uses, mine is a 2007 car. I'm not with the car at the moment so can't go and look myself.

Lots of people using Scangauge on Defenders. here I haven't tried one myself but lot's of positive posts on LR forums.

I have just had a similar dilemma. My 110CSW was starting to rot away and required welding before every MOT. I also considered fitting a new galvanized chassis. The problem for me was that I also needed a new front bulkhead and five doors. When I totaled everything up, including a respray and a Discovery transfer box, to improve the motorway ability, I was looking at about 8k. I loved the car and was sad to get rid of it but in the end I changed it for a 2012 USW. The new Defender is so much nicer to drive and cruising at 70 on the motorway is now easy. It is also a pleasure to have a heater that actually blows warm air out and a heated screen. I continue to read horror stories about the reliability of the Puma Defenders but so far mine seems ok.

Interesting, mine (1997) does that too. I recently had a new clutch fitted after it pushed the CRB through the release arm. I was giving it some time to see if it improves before taking it back to the garage that did the work. Mine is now quite difficult to get into first at a standstill and I have to be more careful when shifting to avoid graunching. Sorry I don't have a solution yet though.

Quoting sforshaw: As far as I'm aware the carbon seat is CSR only, for the S3 it's CF/Kevlar, GRP or leather. Stu. I think I have seen them fitted in Mad Hatter's car which I thought was an s3?

I see you have opted for the carbon ones, I assume you mean the full carbon not the carbon/kevlar (slightly yellow) ones? I changed my GRP Tillets for the Kevlar ones (yellow weave) as they are quite a bit more flexible and a bit lighter. I was lucky to get them second hand and managed to do a swap for the GRP ones. I really wanted the full carbon ones but couldn't justify the extra cost. Having sat in them all I think the full carbon ones are the best but they do feel like they are more reclined than the other two.

There are two part numbers listed for SV grills. I asked CC about this and was told that the nose cone supplier changed in 2010 so the grille was amended for the new mold. AFAIK the SV grill also fits a CSR. 57777 = Grille for pre 2010 Edited by - jimh on 15 Nov 2012 14:44:05 Edited by - jimh on 15 Nov 2012 14:45:32

I have an sv rubber floor mat in my csr with lowered floor. It fits fine in length but is slightly too wide, I haven't got around to trimming it yet. I replaced the original carpet as I got fed up with it coming unstuck and getting wedged behind the pedals. It's also easier to dry out than the carpet was.

I would also like an SV one if someone can confirm it will fit a CSR.

I have just fitted a new Banner battery to my car. Mine had a sticker on the top of the new battery saying to remove the plugs before use. Mine had a red plug on the +ve side and a black one on the -ve. I pulled out the red plug which had quite a bit of pressure behind it, I then refitted it. As my existing vent tube was on the negative side I pried out the black plug and pushed the tube into the hole. The hose it not a very tight fit in the hole so I will have to monitor it to ensure it stays put. I'm assuming that it is OK to have just one of the vent holes open and connected to the vent tube?

I have just read the T&C's again and was a bit surprised to see that there is no video recording allowed. Photography and Production of Coverage Other than taking still photographs for personal, non-commercial and non-promotional use, no drivers, passengers or their guests are permitted to produce or broadcast any audio, visual (still and/or moving) and/or audio-visual coverage of the venue or any activity at the venue in any media without obtaining MSV's prior written consent. MSV shall be entitled to charge a reasonable fee for the production of such coverage. Where MSV provides its consent to the production of coverage (a) any and all on-board video equipment carried in or on vehicles must be safely and securely installed in accordance with any applicable governing body regulations; and (b) if the person making the request is a journalist, photographer and/or cameraman, such person must complete a media accreditation form supplied by MSV, accompanied by a letter or other written communication from the journalist's, photographer's or cameraman's relevant publication or company. has anyone got permission for personal onboard video before?

I think that was me. First outing for over a month so really enjoyed being out in the sun.

Yellow parked at the end of the quay in Boscastle. My son and I walked past on our way round the coast path.

My CSR has the 3.62 LSD and 6 speed box combination. I use it mostly on road but also do a few track days. I love the car and I'm glad I went for a CSR. Personally I find top gear way too low on the road and on track but I like the 6 speed box. My ratio gives me around 130mph flat out and 80 is at about 4300rpm. I think I would go with a lower diff ratio if I was starting from new, probably 3.38 or even 3.14 but this probably makes first gear too high for in traffic. Another option I would consider is a Sadev 6 speed box as I think these can be had with an overdrive top gear of .86 so you could have the best of both worlds. I have had the diff struts fitted to my car, they are not expensive. I would not bother with the full hood as I find the half hood works really well. I would recommend that you specify the track day rollbar instead of the unbraced standard item. I had to change mine to do & club track days.

I have now replaced the fuel tank filler hose and it has cured my petrol leak. The old one was completely split which would account for the petrol leaking during filling. CC do not have the part in stock but after much researching I managed to find out what other cars it fits. For info: CC part No = CRC 9287 MGF part no = WLH100440 later superseded by WLH100531 it was also fitted to some early metro's but not sure what part number they used. I found one on ebay and several were in stock at South Lakeland Mini Centre - www.southlakesminis.com Photo of old one Edited by - jimh on 23 May 2012 16:53:57 Edited by - jimh on 23 May 2012 16:54:38

I have investigated my fuel leak and it is almost certainly the filler hose as I can see several splits in it where it appears to be perished. I phoned CC and Redline but neither have the spare hoses in stock ☹️ I'm wondering if I can use a piece of 2" hose as a temporary repair? Can someone confirm what size the fittings are? I have so far been unable to get my boot floor out too I have removed the two self tappers and the carpet but the honeycomb section is a very tight fit and I can only move it a couple of mm up and down. The front end has a section of aluminum angle over it, does this just prize off? I assume I need to lift it out front edge first as it has a small lip above it at the rear? Edited by - jimh on 21 May 2012 13:52:24

Thanks for the suggestions. I had discounted the fuel sender gasket because it was pouring out while I was filling up and even when I stopped it was only half full.

I have been able to smell petrol in my car recently but couldn't find any leaks. Yesterday when I was filling it up, quite a lot of fuel ended up on the ground directly under the filler cap. I'm assuming that my fuel filler hose has failed. I had a quick look and the hose seemed to be OK so I will take the filler assembly apart to double check everything. Having looked on the CC web site I see that the fuel filler hose is out of stock. Does anyone know where I can get one from, apart from CC?

While I was cleaning my car after Cadwell Park track day I noticed some oil mist around the back of the car. The only leak I can find is a bit around the gearbox tailshaft area. I did notice this when the car was on the ramp for it's MOT but didn't think it looked too bad. Should I panic and get this fixed or is it something I can leave until the winter? I'm assuming it is an engine out job to replace this seal on a CSR or is it possible to access it by removing the diff and prop shaft. I say this because I'm considering having the diff ratio changed anyway.