Strangely

I checked with Thundersport / Oxted, and they said that it's not economical to strip and repair a tunnel.

Hi. I'm after a transmission tunnel for my 1996 K-Series with 5-speed gearbox and central handbrake. Must be in good condition (I already have one that isn't). I think that my current one is leather, but it could be vinyl (it's not available for me to check at the moment). I believe this is the correct model, apart from this one is carbon-effect, not plain: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/tunnel-tops/4862-tunnel-top-carbon-effect-s3.html Anyone got anything available?

Thanks Garth. Buying things would be so easy if companies would just make exactly what I want ;)

Thanks Alan. That seller doesn't have any either :(

That would be great, Chris, thanks. Best of luck for the IVA. Jason.

Hi Garth, I noticed from another thread that you also made a DIY headset with Bluetooth intercom. How does the TuffTalk compare with that? I can see two problems with the TuffTalk: 1. I can't find anywhere to buy them in the UK! The UK Sena website don't list them, Amazon is out of stock. Where did you get yours? 2. PTT is on the side of the head, right? How does that work in practice while driving, having to take your hand off the wheel? More generally, I'd like to hear from someone with experience of using a boom mic in a Seven with an aeroscreen. Do they work at full-on blatting speed? Jason.

I don't need the extenders at the front, only the rear. The only reason I can't raise the front higher is because that makes the rake ridiculously low, because I can't currently (without extenders) raise the back any further.

Yes.

I have post-96 wide-track at the front, and my Protech dampers don't have extenders. The rear doesn't currently have extenders, but I need them in order to achieve both decent ground clearance under my sump at the front, and acceptable rake. This is due to the twin facts that my idea of "decent ground clearance" is higher than most due to me smashing a sump on the the crappy Berkshire roads last year, and that I run the car on 175/55R13 CR500 tyres, which are about the smallest diameter that Sevens run on.

Do you have rose joints at the top of the rear dampers? Did you have have to do anything extra to make that work? (I've got Protech dampers already, but I need to get some extended top eyes, and wondered whether I could go to rose joints at the same time.)

Ian, is that a Ford Sierra-type diff for a de Dion Seven? If so, I'll take it please. Jason.

https://caterhamsuperlight106.files.wordpress.com/2017/06/fitting-the-pace-dry-sump-system-to-a-caterham-k-series-engine.pdf http://lowflying.lotus7.club/2003/2003_03_02_DrySump.pdf I've got a tank where the end of the passenger footwell used to be, but sorry I can't remember any of the details.

Phil's car is a live axle, but he was describing work on my car, which is a de Dion. The original question asked about removing the propshaft without taking the diff out, which is what this process allows. It does include "dropping the diff", but that doesn't require removing the halfshafts and completely removing the diff from the car.

Tom, sorry if this is too late, but there is a write-up on Phil Waters' blog (see Sunday 14th - Propshaft Swap), describing how we replaced the propshaft on my '96 K-Series without removing the diff, or the engine and gearbox.

rj, if you do go homebrew, then teensy is about as small (and light!) as an Arduino nano, but has CAN bus built in. Apparently -- I have no practical experience with it, but was eyeing it up for my own project a while ago.

I found this guide to be really helpful: https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum/the-hidplanet-university/how-to-diy/51029-how-to-taking-apart-amp-connectors

Thanks for the pics, GJT .

GJT, or anyone else, do you have any photos of the Swiss car lights, to which you refer? I'm looking for alternatives to the Caterham lights for when I fit new rear wings, hopefully over this winter. Despite how much I don't like the Caterham ones, pretty much every alternative just doesn't look "right". I do like the round ones that are fitted on the Sprint [1] -- are the Swiss ones similar? [1]: http://uk.caterhamcars.com/caterham-sprints-back-swinging-‘60s

Pugwash, my USB socket is under the dash, on the bulkhead, and I have tied the cable so that it comes up pretty much vertically from the bottom of the dash. By the time it's mounted, the bottom of my phone is quite near the bottom of the dash anyway, so you hardly see any of the cable. In that arrangement, the mount holds the phone perfectly in position. I've not tried "pulling" the phone to the side with the cable. The mount obviously will move, so that you can position the phone, so if there is enough force on the cable then it will pull the phone. If that happens then you could perhaps use a longer cable so that it's not under tension?

I use my phone for satnav. I used to have a holder with a sucker stuck to the passenger side of the transmission tunnel, so that my phone was down by the gearknob, but I found that was too far away from my line of sight. Now I have a tiny mount with a sticky pad on one side, stuck near the top of my carbon dash, and a magnet on the other side for my phone, with a small metal disc stuck to the back of the phone. There are many similar-looking mounts; I bought that one because it was all-black and all-metal. It has worked perfectly so far. In the photo, my shift lights also use the same kind of mount, so you can see it from a different angle. In this case, I have the magnet on the car side. This holds the lights up high, close to my line of sight, and it easily pulls away from the car when I meed to fit the tonneau.

Workshop Notice 371 -- Injection Fuel Tank Breather

Mark, it must depend upon the fuel tank configuration, because on my 1996 K my record is getting 36.58 litres in on a fill-up, and before I changed the tank I ran the engine until it stopped and there were literally just drops left in the tank. One thing I have noticed is that when the level gets very low, the car won't stand going up even the slightest slope without conking out with fuel starvation.

Anthony, which engine do you have? On my 1996 K I removed and refitted my fuel pump (to change the gasket) by doing: remove boot floor, to get access to the long bolt-like things that fasten the top front edge of the tank to the chassis at the rear bottom detach the fuel filler from the rear panel -- remove the fuel filler cap to reveal 2 (I think) screws. No need to mess with anything on the tank end push the tank to the sideThat gave just enough room to remove the pump. If you haven't ordered a new one, be careful not to damage the rubber gasket when you remove it. Good luck!

If you want a project to do, fair enough. In terms of cost, I think it would be cheaper and a lot quicker to buy a carbon dash. Companies like Ultimate Carbon do them much cheaper than Caterham. They will also do a dash without cut-outs if you want to do something custom.

Ian: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/senders/1206-bracket-front-wheel-speed-sensor.html