Strangely

I checked with Thundersport / Oxted, and they said that it's not economical to strip and repair a tunnel.

Hi. I'm after a transmission tunnel for my 1996 K-Series with 5-speed gearbox and central handbrake. Must be in good condition (I already have one that isn't). I think that my current one is leather, but it could be vinyl (it's not available for me to check at the moment). I believe this is the correct model, apart from this one is carbon-effect, not plain: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/tunnel-tops/4862-tunnel-top-carbon-effect-s3.html Anyone got anything available?

Thanks Garth. Buying things would be so easy if companies would just make exactly what I want ;)

Thanks Alan. That seller doesn't have any either :(

That would be great, Chris, thanks. Best of luck for the IVA. Jason.

Hi Garth, I noticed from another thread that you also made a DIY headset with Bluetooth intercom. How does the TuffTalk compare with that? I can see two problems with the TuffTalk: 1. I can't find anywhere to buy them in the UK! The UK Sena website don't list them, Amazon is out of stock. Where did you get yours? 2. PTT is on the side of the head, right? How does that work in practice while driving, having to take your hand off the wheel? More generally, I'd like to hear from someone with experience of using a boom mic in a Seven with an aeroscreen. Do they work at full-on blatting speed? Jason.

I don't need the extenders at the front, only the rear. The only reason I can't raise the front higher is because that makes the rake ridiculously low, because I can't currently (without extenders) raise the back any further.

Yes.

I have post-96 wide-track at the front, and my Protech dampers don't have extenders. The rear doesn't currently have extenders, but I need them in order to achieve both decent ground clearance under my sump at the front, and acceptable rake. This is due to the twin facts that my idea of "decent ground clearance" is higher than most due to me smashing a sump on the the crappy Berkshire roads last year, and that I run the car on 175/55R13 CR500 tyres, which are about the smallest diameter that Sevens run on.

Do you have rose joints at the top of the rear dampers? Did you have have to do anything extra to make that work? (I've got Protech dampers already, but I need to get some extended top eyes, and wondered whether I could go to rose joints at the same time.)

Ian, is that a Ford Sierra-type diff for a de Dion Seven? If so, I'll take it please. Jason.

https://caterhamsuperlight106.files.wordpress.com/2017/06/fitting-the-pace-dry-sump-system-to-a-caterham-k-series-engine.pdf http://lowflying.lotus7.club/2003/2003_03_02_DrySump.pdf I've got a tank where the end of the passenger footwell used to be, but sorry I can't remember any of the details.

Phil's car is a live axle, but he was describing work on my car, which is a de Dion. The original question asked about removing the propshaft without taking the diff out, which is what this process allows. It does include "dropping the diff", but that doesn't require removing the halfshafts and completely removing the diff from the car.

Tom, sorry if this is too late, but there is a write-up on Phil Waters' blog (see Sunday 14th - Propshaft Swap), describing how we replaced the propshaft on my '96 K-Series without removing the diff, or the engine and gearbox.

rj, if you do go homebrew, then teensy is about as small (and light!) as an Arduino nano, but has CAN bus built in. Apparently -- I have no practical experience with it, but was eyeing it up for my own project a while ago.