The_ASH

I’ve added the full ugly URL

Link to ad :- here or here if you can’t see the clickable link :- https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201802063468484?advertising-location=at_cars&advertising-location=at_cars&postcode=rg145xf&model=SEVEN&page=2&make=CATERHAM&onesearchad=Used

I don’t think the standard bar has become completely useless or unfit for purpose over night. I’m sure Caterham would say that it provides considerably more protection than no bar at all, if you feel you need more protection (or a trackday organiser requires it) then fit the trackday bar, if you feel you need protection beyond that then fit an Academy cage.

I’d work out whether the sensor is faulty and go with Plan B myself. Rectifying a faulty Lambda could actually pay for itself over time if the ecu is over fuelling.

I’d check the lambda sensor first as this can cause higher emissions, Seven catalysts do eventually fail like any car but not usually at the age/miles you list and as JNC suggests find a local Seven friendly garage as it sounds in this case that the MOT tester might be faulty rather than the CAT? Useful info by Hella here

Now sold.

Most interesting, thanks for posting, will pass link on to some other people.

Diff casing is BMW 1 Series but internals for lsd are Titan.

You have Blatmail.

Hi Simon, Both myself and the Rollbar are located in Abingdon just below Oxford. Ashley.

Linky

Yes, things could be worse

Indeed, it works so still has a use even if it’s just as a USB power bank. Generally there’s a very quick ‘feel’ test for these usb batteries basically the good ones are heavy, the one I mentioned above is almost the lightest I have. The best 18650’s (3.5ah) available have quite a mass to them, I had some cheap Chinese ones which purported to be 2600mah but were very light, only seemed to give 800mah at best and it felt like something was flopping about inside the can, so I discharged it and opened the cell via the button end... can half full, contents flopping about unsupported inside, connection to button long, uninsulated, potential for short circuit and fire large. Also an interesting lesson in that even discharged these cells are 3.something volts and things can get a bit lively if you take them apart, any of them present a massive fire risk if a short circuit or cell failure leading to same occurs, they don’t like the cold but ought to be kept somewhere like the garage when not in use where they can’t set fire to something else and burn the house down. edit: Surprised there’s never been a thread on torches on here (certainly don’t remember one) similarly there is a lot of over claiming of output from Chinese ones of those but even so some seem to be like a pocketable KC Daylighter with a gazillion candlepower, again though care needs to be taken in selecting the right genuine cells to keep the lighthouse ‘burning’ (maybe that’s the wrong metaphor).

Bought a very (like £11) cheap one recently, just for research purposes really, by its weight I think it’s 5 or 6ah but as usual with Chinese battery packs quoted as being 30ah. I was hoping to open the case to inspect the contents but can’t find the way in at present. The blurb says it’s not suitable for diesel starting or petrol engines over 3 litre. It’s this one here except mine was UK supplied, I may yet be proved wrong but I think it’s rubbish. Generally I think a pack that uses 18650 cells would be better and preferably those of a decent manufacturer like Samsung or LG would be even better. Spare pack connection leads can be purchased giving the possibility of plugging a charged pack into a Seven to prolong the between charges life of a Banner during times of inactivity. Funny thing is, I’ve had a larger sealed lead acid one for 12 years and in all that time I’ve never had to jump one of my own cars but have become first port of call for mates who know I have a portable jump starter.

Boing

Now my car has gone I thought I’d resurrect this as it’s sitting wrapped up in the loft and ought to be put to better use. So, as listed in top post above, Metric standard roll-bar... For Sale.

Now Sold. Thanks for all the interest and enquiries.

Agree with all replies above, Tillett seats are full harness only, an intertia reel belt will be held away from you and not function properly when tensioned also modifications or extensions to the mountings should not be carried out. It’s probably just as time consuming to re-fit or fiddle about making 3-point belts work as fitting harnesses... put an ad in the ‘Wanted’ section I’m sure someone will have what you are after.

Does the issue improve or get worse as the box warms up with use, when I owned a car with a 6 speed 2nd would initially be stiff to engage but after a few miles became just as snicketty and easy to engage as all the other gears, very little force required to engage, I seem to remember being able to use just one finger to drop the stick back into 2nd, 4th & 6th.

Seeing Scott’s post above and thinking about it I kind of agree with him, the BMW stealers is worth a try but they may want the VIN number from your 1 Series before they can proceed and of course really they are just ‘fault diagnosers and parts fitters’. And of course if yours is an LSD it probably doesn’t have BMW internals, ISTR that they are Titan (someone correct me if I’m wrong please). However if there’s someone there who’s technical, an enthusiast and knows their stuff I’d bet the info on max allowable lash will be noted somewhere on their system for fault diagnosis purposes.

Particularly dopey today, realised I have a BMW open diff’d car sat in the garage. I don’t have CR500’s or 13’s but have Avon ZV3’s on 14’s, as described by yourself I placed it in 4th with one wheel off the ground, with middle of the A of Avon as the start or one end of the lash I rotate the tyre and get to the middle of the V of Avon before it stops. Roughly 30mm at a radius of 240mm from the hub centre some of which though is lash in the gearbox.

Good question to which I have no direct answer but have a quick Google and it’ll throw up some results including some links to YouTube vids most if not all seem to be for LSD’s not open diffs but might provide some pointers. Perhaps the best thing to do would be visit your local BMW dealers but go armed with part numbers etc and be prepared for some belittlement when you tell them it’s fitted in a Caterham, I’m sure their technical system would have the figures you require recorded somewhere.

Is it forward of you or directly sideways? a popular thing that makes a tinny rattle is the headlamp or lamps often the plug inside taps loudly on the shell also the base where the shell mounts onto the base can make a loud ticking noise as the lamp shakes about, a squirt of plusgas stops it but surprising how loud it can get.

Not seen one that bad without it moving the engine/gearbox in the car, presumably the baffle plate was damaged by the pickup pipe being thrust upwards, how have you fixed the cracked block... by replacing it or welding or metal glue? Having an Apollo seems to have saved the day.

If you search on eBay using ‘rover 4523’ or ‘laser 4523’ there are loads, not very cheap though at £35.42 upwards :-(