The_ASH

The 1400 Supersport LE cars from that era certainly had under slung fog and reverse, if the spare wheel carrier is ditched the back panel looks much cleaner for not having the lights mounted on it, also generates a slight length reduction for those with limited garage space :-) Neatest setup IMHO is fog light tight under back panel set to correct side and deleted reverse, uncluttered, simple and lighter.

My 2012 S3 has them fitted, I assume for the purpose mentioned above and so the lights point backwards not upwards at an angle.

The more recent Eibach springs have a part number on them, the poundage I believe can be traced from that. Not sure if yours are those springs though Del, worth a look though.

You could actually have a bit more power than that, drivetrain power loss could reduce the headline figure by 15 or so percent (the Caterham 140 figure would have been at the flywheel) even then though it might mean you only have 90hp. It might be worth physically proving you actually have Supersport cams installed. After that fitting vernier pulleys and making sure everything is timed correctly might improve things greatly. Another thing I've heard suggested that can sap K power is incorrect oil level if overfilled it doesn't clear the foam quick enough and thrashes around in the crank case absorbing power and creating heat, not sure how true this is though, there are guides on here pointing how to get an accurate level reading.

I owned 1400 Supersports with both gearboxes and found very much as Ian describes above for every day use the 5 speed was the best. What I found was that as the 6 speed 6th is a 1:1 ratio I was always looking for the next gear as opposed to the 5 speed in which 5th is an overdriven ratio so when in 4th another gear was available for more relaxed cruising if you found yourself on a dual-carriageway or motorway. At times the 6 felt like there were too many ratios close together so you'd end up missing some out so perhaps going 1-2-4-6 or 5-3 or 6-4 coming back the other way, it did work very well used like that though so that's more of an observation than criticism. Also I think the first cars 5 speed was a good one (I have experienced many type9 5's of varying quality) but the second cars 6 a not so good box, awkward and klunky at times with temperamental synchro on 2nd when cold. Personally, all considered and given the massive price of a 6 speed I'd put up with one less gear and have done ever since myself.

There is/was a guide written many years ago on how to... it was published in Low Flying and is also here on this site somewhere, however after much searching I can't find it, I'm sure someone will point it out soon. edit: located it elsewhere:- http://sevener.fr/images_articles/moteur/apollo.pdf

Insomnia has allowed me time to compare pictures of rads on both websites more closely and it does look like one or two of them are the same or very similar others differ a lot so looks like they come from many manufacturing sources.

I don't think Radtec are the OEM supplier, from memory all theirs are fully welded Ali items. The Caterham ones people had issues with going back a few years had plastic end-caps and looked a lot more like the kind of thing you'd find on a tintop, looking at those on the web parts site it looks like they have rads from several suppliers. Back in the dark ages there was a Radtec bulk buy on here, I obtained one for my first Seven, it was a beautiful work of art almost too nice to fit to the car! They aren't completely infallible though and I have heard of the odd manufacturing faux pas, obviously issues are few and far between and they will always sort out problems.

So, am I correct in thinking you fitted the sandwich plate so that the connections were at the bottom instead of the top or were they at the top as standard and just routing was different. Standard length hoses? Alan: There is a very good guide somewhere here by John Vine that was originally printed in Low Flying. I thought it was in the 'guides' section but can't find it, I'm sure someone will be along who knows it's location.

You and me both, I've been looking for a set of 633's for ages. In the end I might just have to give in and buy some from Dave.

Wrightpayne - Yes, probably an SVA 'feature'. thompster - It does indeed mark the edge the longer it sits there, perhaps a marker that your car has been used and not polished. I take your point that presumably Caterham would sell only 2 or so lengths of it S3, SV and CSR... all over 1m in length frustrating

Many people remove it, the only function I've found it serves is to stop water running straight into the car across the scuttle when the car is fitted with an aero of some type or a screen that's not sealing, usually though if there's that much water around you have other more important problems to deal with like not getting soaked through.

You've answered your own question Tom, in theory the Mems ecu should see the lower inlet temp and adjust the fuelling for the cooler more dense air, from that should come more power.

That hose is what was used to link the TB to a standard Rover air box with paper air filter inside mounted in front of the heater, usually seen on 1.4 (sometimes 1.6) K engined cars so 105 or 115hp. There was once a metal cast plenum with forward facing TB, seen on the last 1400 K LE cars around 1996. If on eBay you see a 56mm TB that's one of its applications however it's said not to flow any better than the 52mm or modified 48mm item, it wasn't EU3 like your car so I'm pretty sure you can only run them on EU1 ecu's as the idle control is different. I do understand your interest in a plenum or cold air feed although the underbonnet of a Seven is quite an airy place compared to many cars. As Nick above says when someone mentioned 'K and airbox' I immediately thought Bernard Scouse but then read your post :-) edit: I can't find a picture of a K engine bay with one fitted but here's the same box fitted to an injection VX car, its that black angled ribbed box thing between the engine and the bulkhead https://goo.gl/images/IBds8W it would point to it being good for at least 175hp but no better position wise for cold air :-(

I did the 633's, verniers. 52mm TB & engine mount delete to my last car, made it feel kind of Supersport+ (like an SS but with a sharper edge). I've amassed enough bits (except cams) to do the same to the present car although might have Dave fit the cams and set the verniers this time. Also have a new Apollo kit to add as well. I will then get the Kmaps bit done to complement it all (that was the only thing I didn't do last time). Obviously a set of Trophy or forged pistons, porting from Dave plus an Emerald would be even nicer but maybe they'll be the next step. At the same time a lightened flywheel and front pulley would be nice... where do you stop? Wanted to build a 160 kit this year but the wait and cost weighed heavy so as I already have a Seven and many of the parts I'll make the most of what I have, seems the most cost effective route to near nirvana to me.

Lots of interesting stuff here excepting the lift and duration of the SS cams, follow 'fitting of verniers and timing cams' link and look at the very bottom of the page.

Caterham have changed their URL's around so now it's this one

There were also sketch versions of Auberge as seen on the single release of 'Auberge', another sketch was seen on the cover of 'Heaven' here

YHM.

Excellent post revilla.

I believe DVA can do them also I understand QED absorbed all the stuff PTP used to do and sell some K stuff.

The other thing regarding lowered floors that I'd forgotten to mention is that if you have an aeroscreen you are less likely to get wasps bursting on your forrid as you sit lower and further down in the airflow most of which is deflected over your head.

Academy cars of the mid-2000's had just the drivers side floor lowered. My last Seven was one of those, I did experience the odd touchdown but the seat bolts were quite long, however if you already experience this with standard floors I'd think twice and clarify what is actually touching down. If I come across double cushions in the road where possible I either slow right down or put the sump between the two of them, at other times the biggest chance of grounding usually comes with the suspension compression when 2 people are in the car.

I've had both Imperial and Metric cars with lowered floors and Imperial cars without, I liked the Imperial car with the lowered setup but don't really like the Metric one, somehow the Metric cabin feels narrower and longer so have had to move seat and pedals forward to minimise the shoulder on the door popper and side panel issue. In all the Imperial cars I always had the seat back resting hard on the rear bulkhead and then adjusted the pedals to suit, I can't do that in the Metric car. A car without lowered floors very much feels like I'm sitting on it rather than in it now I've had cars with the lowered floor, a bit like the 'why am I sat on a barstool' feeling you get sat in an MGF. Another thing to add is that with the seat hard back against the bulkhead the seat base is then slightly better supported and less likely to flex the floor as you drive now Caterham insist on relying on the floor alone for seat mounting, years ago the seat runners were also supported at the rear using what are now 2 of the 6-point belt attachments.

BigCol - It would appear I've been exposed for not reading Low Flying extensively.