deanteam

When you checked the clutch did you remove the pressure plate? If so did you mark and put back in the same place? Would expect that for those sort of revs the pressure plate and flywheel would have been balanced together. Does it vibrate in each gear at those sort of revs, if so it is unlikely to be in the prop. Interested in the conversion, which gearbox did you have and what mods did you have to do?

Long or short cockpit live axle? Edited by - deanteam on 18 Feb 2004 07:38:45

I have eyebolts on the lower harness fixings and bench seats. However this is for 6-point, the waist straps are normal holes and the crutch is snap hook. The seat squabs that I have are reduced in width at the back leaving room for the eyebolts.

The engine number should be stamped into the top of the engine mount below the carbs. I doubt if this will give you the spec but should give you for which vehicle it was built.

62.42796lbs

When you moved to wide track, did you extend the damper at the top? We extended the damper by ca 1/2" vrs orginal ( parts from Leda ) our springs are 300lbs 6.5" long for a Twin Cam motor (bit heavier than K series !)

The horzontal section goes underneath the outer skins. The only way, apart from cutting is to slide this panel rearwards after the front 90° flange has been bent upwards to clear the chassis tube.

Paul, do you mean it is also good for sticking shoe soles?

We have had problems due to the propshaft being too short on a live axle, I don't know if this is possible on a Dedion. In other words the end of the prop was not fully supported on the splines and the prop could more easily radially leverage the output shaft and damage the soft metal bearing.

I think the Lotus-Cortina version of this gearbox had better spaced ratios, similar the the Quaiffe set. I think the Quaiffe set might be straight cut, no major problems but whines in the first three gears like a proper old'n.

As Chelspeed says, it is impossible to change the overall gearing unless you go for the 'overdrive' 5-speed. If you go for a rear axle change, there are different speedo gears that fit in the gearbox. I think they are listed in the Wheale book. There are a couple of different 4-speed boxes, we run 3-rail boxes and spares can be a bit difficult. I get syncro rings from SPC and have got straight cuts from Tranx. Burton is also possible for some parts ( Quaffe gear sets). If you look at their brochure they have explaination of the type of gearboxes. www.burton.com.

Would you consider a swap, naturally depending on specification?

A small thread extention.... has anyone used one of these to keep two (or more) batteries, connected in parallel, up to scratch? Edited by - deanteam on 26 Nov 2003 09:53:19

Babybucket, sorry the axle is a Ford. Friedhelm, I will have to take photos, probably next weekend. Highly recommend Rogers work, he uses a tube rather than a blade to strengthen the axle, maybe not as light as the 'edmunds' solution but much less fabrication. The diff housing can be sourced from Burton, Tony Thompson..? I think the alu drums were called Alufin, I had a pair on a Mini (some years ago now). I have also searched for this type of drum but no success under Alufin, but maybe Chris has the info for contact to the specialised supplier. I could be interested if a solution is identified. The advantage of the disc brake set-up is much less fade when you drive on track for some time. If you have self adjustment on the drum brake, after track sessions as the brakes cool they lock on ( as the brakes self adjust as the drums get hot and expand) and it takes some time before the shoes are worn down to free the brake. Edited by - deanteam on 10 Nov 2003 08:14:01

Friedhelm, Have you followed the threads, and Low Flying articles on low weight live axles and brakes fitted to 'edmunds' car? There can be some large weight savings if you are willing to put in the money. I recently fitted an alloy diff housing, which I combined with adding an LSD and reinforcing the axle, but still reduced weight by 1.5kgs. If you want to see a disc brake set-up on a live axle go to Hockenheim Sat 8th and ask for Matthew, he is 'racing' his Twin Cam in the 'Fun" race. Geoff

Pity you made fun of Mon Cheri!... The old one has now given up the ghost and I may have a small alternator to have a look at .

Have you considered calling someone like Redline +441883346515, who have experience with suppling older Lotus/Caterhams. They might be able to put together a 'package' of nuts and bolts for the chassis. It may be a little more expensive but might save a lot of hassle. Have you posted on www/seven-mania.de, there might be other seven owners that can help? We are based close to Konstanz in CH.

With the PD system check the cost of oil, supply and service.

I think the important difference of the james whiting hubs is that they are machined from billet ali rather than cast ali. The gold anodise is for corrosion protection? Makes them look nice as well.

We have had Leda spherical bearing mounted shock absorbers for a couple of years and are very satisfied. James Whiting explained why one should fit them. I believe that you should at the same time fit a spherical bearing in the a-frame to get the full benefit. Avo maybe better due to their reduced weight. Edited by - deanteam on 17 Sep 2003 14:10:36

Due to rad failure on LeSept, I call Radtec direct to join this action. I was told that there was no problem and that they had had to make more that the orginal 10? May have mis-understood. I picked one up last week no trouble. Very nice radiator.

New stand of the situation. Tried the ECU on a different car and it works. So the ECU should be ok. I’m now wondering if an electric sensor might have gone which feeds the ECU with information. The problem we are getting on the car what doesn’t work is, that it start and runs for a couple of seconds and then dies, the other thing what it is doing, is that its flooding the pistons with petrol, so it will not start for some time again.It can’t be the immobiliser as this works fine when we changed to the other car Any ideas are very welcome, could it be that one of the sensors has gone, and witch one could it be? Regards Matthew

Got a bit more information, the car actually starts for a few turns and then dies. The mixture appears too rich as it will not `start` again for a while, it appears to be that it starts on the starting programme but does not go into the full running programme. Could it be the pressure sensing from the manifold or some other sensor? The pipe from the manifold goes to a small black box before going into the ECU, what does this black box do? Are the ECU and immobiliser a Caterham matched pair or can they be acquired elsewhere? Unfortunately it does not appear to be a fuse, that would have been a welcome embarrassment at the moment. Mark, it sounds similar to your description, fires but does not `catch` Thanks for the offer Robmar we will consider and get back to you off-line, the car is not one of ours but one of the `Swiss`crowd and so cannot reply at once. Thanks for the help, Geoff.

Thanks Peter, thats good input, I wonder where it is on a LHD car? Any ideas? How can I visually recognise it?

Thanks for the quick response. Unfortunately I am remote to the car so I have to relay questions and answers, but can the ECU be easily inter-changed? Edited to add, The cars are same type, age etc. Edited by - deanteam on 14 Jul 2003 13:57:07