deanteam
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Everything posted by deanteam
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The car has failed it’s MOT due to play in the steering. The problem is wear in the small shell bearing inside the left hand side of the rack tube which supports the rack. Since this r+p is derived from the Triumph Herald replacements are difficult. In fact this is a so-called refurbished rack which I fitted to the car this winter! (Supplied by one of the Caterham dealers!) Does anyone know where I can get just the shell bearing from so that I can try replacing myself?
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Did this together with the Leda spherical bearing mounted dampers last year. So far no problems despite the hard work. The whole modification has made the backend quite supple.
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Some autoroutes now have windows for RH-drive cars. (Usually signposted). Good Luck.
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Just wanted to say that I have finished the report on the brake upgrade. I have sent it to everybody but I’m not sure if you got it, my mailing was not working properly so I've given you the link to the web page where you can read it. Matthew http://home.sunrise.ch/deanteam/DeanTeam/stammseite3.htm Edited by - deanteam on 26 Mar 2001 08:26:13
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Just wanted to excuse myself for not replying to your interest. I want to get some better pictures of the upgrade, but can’t due these until the weekend. As soon as I get the documentation ready (weekend) I will send you the information. Matthew
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Hi Andrew hope to see on Le Sept this year. Our experience is that ACB10s give better grip and are quite good in damp conditions. Remember last year? If you are running them with 021s you may have to compromise on the camber settings if you intend swopping regularly. If you are not going for 'timed' events I think 032/021 is a good combination.
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Glad to say that I have finished fitting disc brakes on to a Ford live axle. Why you may ask? Previous drum brakes had no feel and because of the self adjusting mechanism caused glazed shoes. First experience yesterday was good. If anyone wants any information I have pictures and details. Matthew
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On page 88 of the Weale book there is a diagram. Send fax number if you don't have book.
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Try Vehicle Wiring, 01159305454
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I am not a mathematical wizard but I think you are right.
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The Weale book gives a table on page 223 with the alternatives.If you don't have the book do you have a fax number? However I suspect that your tyres may have a smaller circumference than that used for the tables, slower than indicated? I think you can have the speedo modified but you need to know the distance that car goes per revolution of the speedo cable drive.
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Would a thin, 5mm spacer not solve this problem, if the studs are long enough?
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I have seen such a cut down screen on car in Germany. It looks very good, just like a full width Brooklands. The wing mirrors are fitted to the top of the side supports and the glass extends a little beyond. There is no top ali surround. I don't know the technical details, quality of glass? bonded-in ? If you're serious I could find out the details.. might take time.
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Check out the thread in For Sale - Alloy shallow wet sump for Crossflow or BDA. This is an initiative to get the alloy sumps direct from the manufacturer, as James does not appear to stock them. Maybe a bit late for you Simon as you have a replacement. The job is relatively easy as explained above, apart from the drips of oil..
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Yes it is the rose joint type. I have heard that to replace the rubber with the rose joint would negatively effect the bracket, but our's has survived last year, which included Le Sept(multi-drivers!), 3 trackdays and road driving. We also changed the shock absorbers to Leda with spherical bearings as well, I don't know if this also helped to reduce the loads. I think that the rubber bushes (when new!) must put some twisting loads into the bracket as the wheel move up and down(or body rolls). The total handling of the car has improved tremendously from the previous Spax-gas set-up.
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I confirm I will take one. Please send details of payment off-line. Thanks for the effort.
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The life of the bushes is greatly reduced if oil leaks on to them. Do you fit the smaller bushes with the larger metal insert ? We have not noticed any wear bias left to right. On one of our cars we have replaced the rubber bushes by a spherical bearing. After 1 year's heavy use this seems the best solution.
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Don't have Red Dot number but Burton supply Red Dot, may help you, :- Burton info, Our mail order lines are open Mon-Fri 8.30- 6pm, Sat.9.00 - 5pm UK:0181 554 2281 International: +44 181 554 2281 ORDER BY FAX: Our dedicated mail order fax line is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. UK:0181 554 4828 International:+44 181 554 4828 E-MAIL: E-mail your order to: Sales@burton-power.co.uk
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I have an orginal Lotus Twincam which is based on the pre-crossflow block. Your answer is not clear if the pan only fits to Xflow blocks or also the pre-Xflow.
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If it fits under a Twin Cam I am interested in one.
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Peter, If the plate type only starts to slip (partally open) at a pre-set load, will there not be a tendency for these to promote initial understeer more than the gear type? As we have not got 200bhp to play with, gear stripping is less of a concern. Are there any major advantages/disadvantages of Quaiffe vrs Suretrac? Has anyone used an alloy diff housing for the Ford live axle? Geoff
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If the car is used for competition or driven quickly at track days the LSD will be very noticable. We find that without, the inside wheel lifts enough to allow wheel spin and therefore loss of speed. Are there any opinions of which type is best for the live axle, torsen gear or plate? I have read from these pages that some racing cars are being switched from gear to plate, what are the pros and cons for the live axle?
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We have a set of Leda fitted to a live axle. Vast improvement over the adjustable Spaxs. No creaking to date. Go for the spherical bearings at the rear.
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Should not have a gap unless your caster angle is very big. In fact to fit ours we had to ease the top-link backwards to get them together and finally ended up with a caster of 3.5°. Is the car jacked-up? I did note some differences if the car was jack-up, it did in fact help us to fit. Otherwise could it be that the auxiliary brackets ( back of the ARB fixings )are not on the correct sides? What year was the chassis made?
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We have two cars in the "team" one with and one without the modification. The one with feels much more under control at the front, more stable under braking, more confidence, faster. The only reason we don't fit the modification to the other is the originality bit, Lotus series III '69, although when exploring the limits???, no, LSD first.