deanteam

Rebbi II, perference following family tradition then...

No but a BIG brother...is watching you.

"that Dean girl looks like she could take them both out with a flying kick and a karate chop if they are not careful." That's someone's daughter you're talking about you know 😳 (you're right of course) regards Naomi

Try Burtons +44 20 8554 2281 part no DDB101 for distributor 23D4 or DDB194 for dissy 43D4.

Brian James Trailors do (still?) a tilting frame to get two seven on one trailor. I would expect to bolt it to the floor would still work. The total length maybe a bit longer. The top one goes up backwards, is then tipped and the lower is driven underneath forwards. A bu77er if you want the top one out

MSDS, Material Safety Data Sheet. No discussion on PAGs ?

I take it that's the Brighton connection

Congratulations from me too! Oops the rest of the deanteam have found me.......I thought the sheds was a good place to hide

Congratulations - well done all concerned. The tension's been unbearable. It's not all over in the first few years you know. We're still going on holiday with our two 27 and 28 years later. (In the 7's though) regards Naomi

Is it running lean with a little too much advance? You could perhaps check the colour of the plugs. You could try pumping the throttle but then leave closed throttle as you try to start.

I have seen in Demon Tweaks catalogues exhust maifold flanges for sale. In fact they advertise a service were you send the gasket and they make up the flange.( At least in the 2003 catalogue )

Other than the above comment I cannot help you further, it was something to check. Obviously if you are able to make your own brackets many things are possible.

Cannot directly answer your question but we recently had a problem with the tail housing on our 3-rail (pre-escort) gearbox in a SIII. We found that the gearbox support/fixing bracket is specific to a type of tailhousing/mounting bracket combination. Later combinations, wedge shaped fixing on the tailhousing, would make the tailhousing and gear change sit too high on our chassis. If your chassis is orginal SII, I suggest you look at the support bracket.

We run Ford axles and I agree with comments above as first place to start - a-frame bushes. All live axles have a similar problem, they wear! and especially quickly if oil gets near to them. A spherical bearing set-up can improve this but obviously costs money ( new A-frame ). Whilst you are looking around the diff might be worth checking the oil level. If the diff has leaked tighten the diff housing ours have been known to work loose.

Try Schaffner Racing in Switzerland, www.schaffner-racing.ch.

We have a LotusSIII which has the same type of tyre wear. If the track was clockwise the left hand tyre will wear more. As you ,I believe it is the change of camber and caster during cornering that puts the outer wheel into more positive camber. My arb slides ca 0.5cms judging by the worn-off paint. This must allow the settings to change. The alternative would be the auxiliary half wishbone but better would be to put a later full wishbone which will enable camber changes. For this you would also need to fix a bracket to the back of the arb location, a hole in the side skin and new arb.

One of the racks used on the 7 in early years was from a Triumph, with bits of tubes mounted on the rod of the rack to restrict lock. I replaced this with a newer 'quick' rack now being made for Spitfires etc. I still had to reduce the lock of this even though our car has flares ( Lotus SIII ). I think I got it from Moss in Manchester.

Thanks for the warm welcome! 😬 GTD, no welcome pack at 750Motor Club?! Not even a malteser?!

Did someone already mention the rain Thanks Dan for dragging me out it that cold and wet weather ☹️ but I must admit I enjoyed it! Nice to have met you all and hope to see you soon again. GTD/Mrs GTD, see you again in June! 😬 Rebecca

yes, and no. We have short cockpit chassis and the only "FIA' available is a tall version. The long cockpit is acheived by moving the rear bulkhead behind the seats rearwards and the distance between the rear panel and seatbelt rail is therefore different. Check with Arch. ( I have assumed that your reference to standard is the short cockpit, as I believe the short cockpit is no longer offered then standard maybe relative? )

Do I understand it correctly that the RS2000 rear brakes are self adjusting which can 'self-adjust' too much during hard use and bind as the brakes cool down?

Perhaps a long shot, is the bearing in the tail housing of the gearbox ok? We have had one on a 4-speed go with similar vibrations.

Could be interested but would like to understand what you are suggesting a bit better. Our car has a Twin Cam and is still running with points! The ignition systems of the orginal Xflow is not much different but from your comment about an "ECU" I assume this modification you're suggesting is in addition to some other type of ignition control system, what do you actually mean? Would it still use the rotor to distribute the spark? Getting good re-manufactered rotors is a problem.( Always carry a spare!). How far is it 3D? how does this system take care of the different maps needed for the different states of tune etc? I know systems like Weber offers might be adaptable but the cost is a barrier, hence the interest in this idea. Sorry for the novice questions but when you are starting with points you have a long way to go to 3D! Edited by - deanteam on 28 Apr 2004 08:18:15

I don't know where your wheelie bin is but you could try www.propshaft.co.uk, they are in Bradford and we have used them to replace the bearings in the UJs. This is only useful if the vibration is the propshaft. Failure of our propshaft did manifest itself as a vibration above 50mph, but it was quite bad as one of the needle roller bearings had fallen out. Only if you have live axle should the height change any of the propshaft angles.

Thanks for the info, I had hoped that my suggestion was rubbish. Good luck with the search.