Clousta

Your problems might be related. With heat soak on the motorway and after a while running the rectifier (diode) pack/voltage regulator in the alternator could be breaking down. The voltage output will not be stable, hence the pulsing of the lights. If the voltage fluctuation of the alternator is significant enough that you can see it in the fluctuation of the lights it must be quite major and not smoothed out by the battery. So the ECU and more importantly sensors such as the the TPS and the MAP, which rely on a stedy voltage will not be getting a steady reading and hence their inputs to the ECU will be erratic. Hence when you are trying to maintain a steady speed the air fuel mixture and the throttle input will be continuously changing - causing the stutter. This will be more pronounced at idle when small differences in TPS and MAP will affect the revs significantly (the idle speed). Find a proper alternator specialist who will put your alternator on the bench and properly test it rather than just sell you another one (otherwise you might not find out whether the alternator was the problem until you are in to another long trip). I had a similar alternator failure but the impact was minimal (manifesting itself as a faintly glowing ignition light and reluctance for the ignition light to extinguish until 3,000 rpm after starting) as the crossflow hasn't got any electronics! Good luck.

Thanks for the feedback - it was worth asking! have a BTTT on me,

2nd dibs on the Orange indicator lens set if 6speed manual doesn't take them. I have a UK address for shipping.

SM25T, thanks for the advice. After several days of studying the Autocom and other websites I was coming to the same conclusion on the DIY approach. The cost of Pelator Optime 1 (yellow ones) at £105 and £95 makes the whole cost of going Autocom in a Seven very pricey. The DIY approach means that the price is not much more that the dual Autocom unit, whether the Logic or the Super pro auto range (I am favouring the latter at the moment as it seems a better package if it is going to be hard wired into the Seven). Location and wiring it up is the next planning challenge Edited to ask if you blat with ear plugs as well as the Optime IIIs or just the IIIs? Edited by - Clousta on 25 May 2011 21:40:05

Open the fuel filer cap and listen for the sloshing of fuel, or not, as a helper rocks the seven? Like a motorcyclist would do. Or listen underneath with a long screwdriver to the skin of the tank.(might not work if you have the bag style of tank). Dip the tank??? (with a flexible plastic or metal rod)

Use a 6 or 8mm dia tubing and siphon the remainder out. Fill with fresh fuel. I would add some fuel and carb cleaner to the mix, Change the fuel filter. As Supersprint1988 says oil change and check other bits and pieces; brake fluid (flush) sticking brake callipers and brake cylinder. Tyres, Wheel bearings. Oil your trunnions. tyres inflation/flat spots. Clutch operation, plugs and points gaps. But probably the best you can do is just get it back on the road and drive it.

I had to drive to the Ardennes today to pick up my son after his Duke Of Edinburgh 30km hike and camp. The bikers were out in force enjoying the glorious sunshine and 28C temperatures. Unfortunately we were in the tin top but had time enough to stop for lunch and watch the world go by for a while. I had scratched the Caterham itch the previous night by driving the Caterham to my German gliding club AGM. I was surrounded by 10 very attentive Germans who wanted to hear the engine run! The drive home, still in just a T-shirt, under the stars and a crescent moon was glorious. Anyway to the sightings,; A yellow Series 4, a silver Caterham on cycle wings on a Luxembourg plate, A BRG sevenesque (looked like a Robin hood) and parked up with driver still in the car in the street was a Dark Blue Caterham with 7" Chrome Headlights on a Belgium plate. All seen within an hour and 800m of each other - Great. We found a great hairpin road to the east of Malmedy climbing out the valley. SWMBO didn't seem to mind me giving the SAAB 9000 turbo the beans and agreed it would be a good road for the seven! Post script: SWMBO enjoy lunch on our own so much that she said we should come down to the Ardennes and repeat the lunch in the Seven - result! Edited to add: There was a Luxembourg Fiat 500 Rally taking place in the Ardennes today - both old and new. it was a great sight. Edited by - Clousta on 8 May 2011 21:28:08

Or you could have a leak on the fuel inlet side of the pump that is introducing air to the fuel. Hence, the pump is pumping an air fuel mix to the carbs and the pump becomes noisy. eventually you use up the reduced amount of fuel being supplied to the carbs and you stop. I had a split hose that gave me this problem. My problem was much more pronounced so your inlet could be quite small.. Check all the inlet hoses for a small,pinhole leak and the jubilee clips for tightness. My experience (copied from another post). On Thursday at the Ypres Lotus Day fuel starvation problems reared their ugly head on the third stage. I diagnosed that the electric fuel pump was on the way out and it appeared to be heat related. We got recovered home. I put the car up on axle stands and had a good look underneath. All appeared in order. Then I noticed that the fuel hose to the fuel pump inlet looked very slightly darker (possibly damp). I poked the hose with my finger and got a fine spray of petrol back. The hose was split and must have been sucking in air. Fuel/air mix made for a noisy fuel pump and fuel starvation at higher revs. Once stopped the carburettor bowls would refill and the engine would run again for a while.

Very nice. Are the prices realistic? I had better check my lotto ticket 😔

Auction ended. 2 bids to a total of £1,950 which did not meet the reserve so we might see it again soon!

I just couldn't live with the colour scheme - I would have to have it resprayed The contact and the advertiser are different people - unwanted present perhaps?

Luke harnesses who are part of Corbeau Seats. Tel 01424 854499

Dignity, thanks for the rapid feedback. I think I will go for the allen button head screws rather than the countersunk style. I think they will fit in with the classic 'prisoner' clamshell theme better (Jaguar BRG and Lotus yellow nose) of my Caterham. The rear wings are currently fitted with armour fend which is great stuff but only comes up the rear wing to about half the height of the stainless steel wing protectors. This is proving to be a bit of problem with stones being thrown up by the A021R sticky tyres, above the armour fend, hence the need to fit the protectors. Also the Jaguar BRG is quite a dark green, the stainless steel protectors will brighten things up a bit. The protectors are s/h, nicely broken in by Wight skipper (cheers) which will match the nice patina of the rest of the car.

T1PAU and Dignity the Stagonset website is still down. Did you use this type of M3 x 10mm bolt/screw and with a washer and nyloc on the back (inside) of the fibreglass wheel arch. linky Dignity I too am fitting stainless steel wing protectors to a late 80's rear wings. Dd you use 10mm or 16mm long screws/bolts in the end? Edited by - Clousta on 24 Mar 2011 10:48:08

Ta!

I had some similar problems with my 22 year old 9,000 crossflow that had been SORN for 3 years when I bought it. Before focussing on the carbs I started with plugs, leads, checking points and coil etc. A hesitation/misfire at mid revs was sorted by using the vehicle and changing the idle jet sortied out the carb spitting. Cooling system has also been overhauled. Cutting out in hot weather and traffic on its journey to Belgium was probably a combination of all factors - not repeated itself. Later perished fuel lines causing the electric fuel pump to pump air and fuel to the carbs raised its ugly head. So my advice would be to check everything. p.s. also a choke cable had been fitted as was used to start the car rather than a prod on the accelerator. The choke cable isn't used any more. Edited by - Clousta on 12 Mar 2011 14:25:29

I had a set on my MGBGT 30 years ago - they were great.

Hopefully the punctuation comes back under control as well as the coolant temperature - I had to read your post three times to understand that you have fixed the problem

Just did a 582mile round trip from Tervuren to Nr Southampton. Outbound am Mon 21, return pm Thursday 24 Feb. Saw no one about, even going to Redline Components at Caterham on the return leg. Nearest thing to interesting was a Dutch spridget waiting for the ferry at Dunkirk.

Thanks for the reply. I will given them a call soon and let you know the outcome.

I have been pondering a new exhaust. I will probably provide Powerspeed a challenge. *biggrin*I have currently got what was the standard Caterham cross flow set up. It is the original exhaust of a kit built 1986-1988. Stainless system throughout leading to a rear exit. 4 primaries (1.35" O.D.) leading to 2 and then 1. The pipe is then 1.75" O.D. to the silencer and then all the way to the end of the tail pipe. The silencer (along side the passenger/LHS) is 4" diameter and 23" long. It has a black silencer cover. Exhaust is mounted in the normal place (ahead of the rear arch) with a rear hanger supporting the tail pipe. So the exhaust is over 22 years old, 11,000 miles, no damage but it is loud. I am looking to quieten things down (otherwise I will never get it near a track day). looking for options from Powerspeed. Looking for a repackable silencer/side exit (doest seem any point having a tail exit), ideally in keeping visually with the period of Caterham (e.g. titanium might look a bit odd) - Oh yes it has clams! Also willing to consider a complete new exhaust system if current primaries & 4-2-1 set up is deemed overly restrictive (The car will spend most of the time on the road so I believe that for a crossflow a 4-2-1 set up is better than 4-1 arrangement) but very willing indeed to take advice in getting a quieter and if possible better set up. Getting to Ashford from Brussels for measurement or fitting etc is no problem (2hr drive to the ferry at Dunkirk and then the quick flip from Dover to Ashford). Any feedback, or alternatives, gladly welcomed Edited by - Clousta on 17 Feb 2011 06:10:41

Anthony, I can't offer any technical advice on your engine but the challenge that you have set yourself or have been set is intriguing in the the extreme. Please, stop the suspense and explain! My early morning maths (sorry I had to convert to metric to do it) indicates that from your start speed (and not taking into account any subsequent acceleration) you will cover that 66 feet in 1.4 seconds. So you could go an time yourself in 3rd gear from that start speed to get an indication. I am sure that despite the off cam operation it will increase speed by 4 mph.

Couldn't find the T-shirt for £50 but I did find the performance white T-Shirt for £115. So I ordered 3 (only kidding). 🙆🏻 Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

H4 bulbs are suitable for a Bi-Xenon HIDs kit so yo can have HID dip and Main beam (its one lamp a but a very quick electromagnetic shutter moves are deflects the beam when you go to main beam so there is no delay whilst the HID warms up for main beam). My local Controle Technique (Belgian MOT) station bought the argument that the fitment was OK because the Range Rover's suspension self levels and therefore doesn't separate headlight levellers. (Range Rover P38) Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

John at Redline fitted a new gasket on my Seven in the summer. It involved a lot of work with a bastard file to make the surfaces of the exhaust manifold flat. The studs were also replaced by hex bolts. However I think it would be wise to invest in a copper one to have one in the garage when it needs replacing so count me in. Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)