Clousta

We use dollys all the time manoeuvring gliders in and out of hangars (single seat and twin seat). They are commercially available and in the car restoration industry but most make their own. You need the dolly to have freedom of movement in any direction you want. If required you can customise the top of the dolly to any size or shape to match the side of your trailer. Why not store it vertically once its upright - less manhandling Here is a link to give you an idea. linky It was made to move a 1972 BMW 2002 chassis around so it should be strong enough. Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

linky no connection to the seller but I know that they are pretty rare and I paid considerably more than the current bid for my copy - good luck bidding Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

That's my project too. I have offered a seat, the runners and floor braces up and think its possible. You will need to drill new holes in the cross rails 13" apart vice 11" (seem to be imperial spacing!). I have just got to work out the correct fastners to attach the seat runners to the base of the S-class seat. Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

😬 😬 😬 Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

Red, that oil looks very dark and dull. I am not sure of the specification of the oil that the MkIII RR uses but my Dexron III in the MkII is light pink. I changed my Gearbox oil at 98,000 miles (Double flush and filter change) and I think I will change it again shortly (at 152,000 miles). When I checked it at the weekend, before going down to the Ardennes, it still looked as clean and bright and smelt the same as the new stuff that I have bought. Did it smell burnt? If so that my help the gearbox tech know where to look. Good luck. Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

Red have you tried this website? Rangerovers.net and the Forums here Range Rover Forums Following EU and US law changes (1995?) all diagnostic code (OBDII) has to be available to third parties. So the Dealers can no longer be closed shops. See Black Box Solutions I have diagnostic kit from them (the older Rovacom Lite). It has saved me a lot of money over the years (and even more for my friends except for the occasional bottle of wine or box of chocs for my time). The new product Faultmate FCR might be just what you need and pay for itself in dealer hourly rates/gearbox oil changes in a very short period of time. Finally, That doesn't sound quite right. I am sure that the Range Rover Forums can clarify that for you. Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit) Edited by - Clousta on 15 Oct 2010 16:26:18

I would get the gearbox diagnostics read for faults. I would also change the gearbox oil to see if there is any burning or discolouration and to rule it out as a problem. I would check the MAF first as its a cheaper action than the 2 suggestions above. Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

A Technician surely But before you call for a Technician check the pump filter. Normally there is an access cover for the pump filter. Is worth checking that it is it clear of fluff, debris, coins, data sticks (ask our teenage son how we know 😬). Most machines try to pump out any remaining water at the start of the cycle before starting the cycle by allowing water in. If it can't pump it will stop the cycle. Similarly if the water supply hose is kinked or the valve is shut off the cycle won't start. Good luck. Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

Now I know, I too consider myself lucky in getting a stanchion (unused) off eBay, still in its protective wooden frame/packaging, at my first attempt. Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

Chris, which bit is rare? I have collected the bits to make up an Brooklands aeroscreen set up this winter from e-bay, and 2 separate suppliers. I didn't experience any difficulty. Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

7 Workshop Please let me know if they have the copper exhaust gaskets in stock. I have been waiting for ages. Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

I can't work out which shocks you are selling. The numbers don't seem to tally with the website link Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

I had the same problem. John at Redline Components solved it by ensuring that the faces of the manifold were flat. He used a good old fashioned bastard file and quite a lot of elbow grease, but not a grinder. I can't recall if he tightened the nuts again when hot. The original builder had used studs and coper nuts to secure the manifold. With this set up one has to dismantle the manifold and part of the exhaust to remove it from the studs due to their length. These were replaced by cap head bolts which will make exhaust manifold gasket changes simpler in the future. Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

The plus side is that you know that your headlamps earths are good - so you are one up on a lot of us who have a nagging feeling that there might be some corrosion lurking in the headlamp bowls and fittings. Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

Yes, Luke are part of Corbeau seat hence the e-mail address and contact details. I have had very good service in obtaining fittings for Luke Harnesses. Corbeau Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

Have you tried a Metrinch spanner or similar? They grip the flats of the the nuts and not the corners. They can usually get enough leverage on a mangled nut. Direct supply tools R&I Tools inc pictures I got them originally for a Land Rover Discovery but now use them on everything. Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit) Edited by - Clousta on 27 Sep 2010 20:43:16

Take out the seat and sit on a piece of dynafoam/confor foam. see Dynamfaom or Cheaper supplier I use a 1" thick piece of dynafoam in my glider with a 2" thick piece behind my back (parachute). It is the most comfortable seating arrangement that I have come across. Comfortable for hours. It is a natural compound and as well as conforming to your body it is warm in winter/cool in summer. If does get a bit hard if you leave it out in freezing conditions but body heat soon makes it supple again. Yes, it does what is says on the tin. I was instructing in my UK club a few years back when we had a launch cable failure at 40 feet which resulted in a very heavy landing. The K-13 glider was OK (tough old birds) but I feared for self and student. Both of use walked away without a scratch. If we had not had the safety foam both would have had spine/vertebrae damage. I was shocked at how close we had been to a serious accident but the student thought it was a great game. You can easily cut the foam to shape and stick bits together. I would start with 1" thick although there is 1/2" stuff. I have only ever see this in a racing glider with the smaller cockpit option. Some sort of cover is needed as it will get damaged if not protected. Mother-in-law made me a set of matching brown Corduroy *eek*covers (very 70's for my 70's glider. The covers have wide strips of velcro on the underside which correspond to the (in this case the glider fibreglass seat) to stop movement until one is strapped in. This may give you a cheap, effective and safe solution. Do not be tempted to use domestic foam. The compression ratios in trials have shown that this worsens the situation than having nothing all under you. Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit) Edited by - Clousta on 19 Sep 2010 09:43:16

Hook up an ordinary battery charger. Maybe Hi setting for a few hours then low for up to 24 hours and then put it on the Optimate. It works for my tintops that have been left standing outside for long periods of time or have had a boot light or similar left on. Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

Why not try Febreeze as a cheaper alternative. It work on teenagers' trainers so it should work on your goat mask. 😬 Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

The torque should be 45lbft on an Ital Live Axle wheel nuts. I think you have stretched the wheel studs. I am surprised that they are not rotating with stripped locating splines. I would fit 4 new studs and see how you get on with your nuts and the correct torque. After I changed 2 defective studs when I got the car I have not had a problem with loose wheel nuts. Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

Yes. Can't help you with your other question. My set up is different. Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

Anthony, of course you can use kitchen scales. I didn't think that you would be travelling with a set but you seem to have everything and the Kitchen sink with you! Nose weight scales are smaller and fit on/in the trailer for next time. Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

Anthony, pop into a caravan dealer and purchase a nose weight gauge. e.g. nose weight gauge They are cheap and easy to use. It takes the guessing out of the equation. You can play around with the weight distribution as much as you like. Also useful if you put different vehicles on the trailer/different orientation. etc. I use one for my glider trailer or if I have to tow some one else's trailer and need to shift stuff around to get teh weight distribution correct. BTW the tow hitch max load for my Range Rover is 100Kg so at 280Kg you are seriously overloading your tow vehicle. Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)

TerryP, I have been having similar problems. I have a 'big' radiator far forward with a 'suck' electric fan between the radiator and the front roll bar. Bringing the Seven back to Belgium (on purchase) last summer on a hot night after a stop the gauge rose up to 120-140C. I pulled over and stopped. No indication of over heating. I waited for 3/4 hr and carried on cautiously. I got home OK. I overhauled the cooling system. Flushed the radiator, block and heater. Replaced the thermostat with a 74C one. Fitted a new temperature sender for smiths gauge. Reworked the expansion tank and fitted a fresh expansion tank hose and jubilee clip. Filled with fresh coolant. Local blats in Belgium all seemed OK. I was anticipating temperature rise when stuck in traffic. I survived 1 3/4Hr stuck on the Brussels Ring in air temp of 28C. Once I had overhauled the cooling system. It has remained full to the top of the radiator cap. No losses. Expansion tank receives coolant expansion and allows it back into the system when the cooling system cools down. I had a suspect alternator (took a long time for the charging light to go out ) - subsequently diagnosed as a failed rectifier. On a trip to UK. Back on the E40 at 3500 to 4000 revs and the temperature gauge starts to rise to 110C and the 120C even after just a short distance. Maybe my car is allergic to the E40. Proceed cautiously. Get to UK. Redline Components check over the cooling system. The system is full of coolant. Cooling system functions fine. Thermostat and radiator fan switch (which is mounted in the Ford thermostat housing (tower) is working correctly as measured by IR thermometer. Diagnosis is a faulty gauge. Drive back to Belgium with black tape over the gauge. Occasionally sneak a look at the temperature gauge - its playing up again. Back in Belgium I fitted a new temperature gauge - all seems OK. Hurrah. During a summer holiday in UK (without the Seven) I took the suspect alternator to my local man in Cornwall. Had it tested and an excellent replacement unit supplied. This is fitted now. Had a trip up the E40 to see Elie Boone. On both legs the temperature gauge was playing up again!! I saw 140C - Full gauge at one stage! Did some more research and checked out the earth paths to the temperature and fuel gauge. No separate earth path to the gauges apart form the dashboard itself. 1.5 to 2 Ohms from clean bolt on bulkhead. Which doesn't seem too bad. I have read up about the Smiths Voltage stabiliser and have purchased a solid state alternative. I am just waiting for this to arrive and will fit it - fingers crossed. Solid state voltage stabiliser from Ebay I bought the 'MGB' one. Or you can purchase from his website directly (a bit cheaper too) Classic stabilisers You can make your own solid state device that fits in the original case if you want authenticity. I not that bothered under the dashboard! DIY solid state voltage stabiliser I found this text of interest on the DIY site: This sounds like my problem. After all the bi-metallic voltage stabiliser is at least 22 years old. Note MGB had Smith's gauges and the same voltage stabiliser (I remember them well). So in summary my cooling systems works even in hot ambient temperatures. However, temperature indication is my problem. The next step is to fit a solid state voltage stabiliser to supply a stable 10V to the temperature and fuel gauge. When at speed, alternator voltage or engine heat seems to affect the voltage being supplied to the gauges (or possibly affects the stray resistance) in the mounting of the instruments in the dashboard. The final step will be to run dedicated earth to each instrument if that is not successful - I may do so even if it is successful as a precaution. Further info. I have no sponge or any other ducting around the radiator. I bought the Seven with 9,000 miles on the clock. I now have 10,800 miles with no coolant loss or overheating. I have most of the parts to convert to a closed cooling system but have fitted it yet. Other more pressing jobs to do. I hope this little history gives to something to think about. Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit) Edited by - Clousta on 26 Aug 2010 20:14:07

Elie, I have just looked up K nuts K Nuts and these were definitely notfitted to my Seven/ Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit)