captain chaos

Hi all it has an electronic distributor so no points... Not tested voltage on cranking..what should it be? We've had carb out as I thought fuel just to be sure...but if it was fuel...why no spark?

Ok....car ran fine until son went away for 2 weeks. Came home...car sat in cold but under a cover. tried to start but no joy... so he first noticed that there was a very weak intermittant spark. So, new rotor arm and Dist cap. Still no joy. Then bought a new coil. Still no joy. I arrive home to help...checked we have very good 12.5v on one side of coil, and to eliminate earth issues i ran a lead all the way back to the battery from neg side. Still no joy,,,now no spark on any plugs. Across the coil there is an amp module which bolts to the side of the distributor. Not really knowing what it does, but as we've checked all else..bought a new one today. Still no spark. I also took a plug lead and ran the lead direct to a plug...so direct from coil to spark plug...still nothing??? Coil does get ever so slightly warm..but only just. Checked that we have correct terminals on coil... the earth strap is connected to the engine.....the car ran Ok 2 weeks ago... What are we missing????

Hi Roger, I'm at 75mm under lowest part of sump with 15mm of rake...not sure of chassis height dims as car is in storage at moment. gary

Just improving visibility!...

My brother is selling his 968CS trackday or race car. I have one myself and I can say that this car is immaculate, well speccd and well maintained. Thanks for looking... http://www.racecarsdirect.com/listing/46070/porsche_968_club_sport_race_car.html

Thanks all....

I just wanted to share and see if I'm missing something... My son has a classic mini which over ther past couple of weeks has been tricky to start. From standing overnight it had all the symptoms of a tired battery...slow to turn engine when starting..but once warm was fine. Connections to battery in good nick. So, my lad bought a new battery and no change..there's just no urgency when turning the engine when cold...get it even luke warm (ie comes out and starts the car during his lunch break) no issues... I'm thinking strarter motor...earth etc...but if these were poor would the temp make such a difference? Thanks

When I did mine I bought a panel from arch that was a reduced end panel with angle. This allowed the passenger a little more leg room (allows feet to rest forward) but still provided enough room for my VX headers...

See link... here £50 to LRF if bought from here...

Went thru a similar pain barrier with mine...I did however, go to the straight manifold to alleviate the negative issues of the std manifold. As many other Vx owners will tell you, the std inlet manifold also has a tendancy to crack from vibration. During my rebuild I plumped for a new bonnet and cut myself a new hole... Good luck

Thats just what I was thinking roger...

Thanks for this.. I take it the clicking is heard outside of the car from the sensor and not from the speaker unit inside the car..

if it's the sequential..Quaife are now passing this work onto Mr Gearbox in Dunstable. They do all types of gearboxes. If Phil (R&R) could fit the work in, thats who i would trust to do a 1st class job.

Ive looked at the module....seems well connected and nice and dry. The car really is in immaculate condition... Thanks for the comment..I'm hoping someone will be along with some direct experience...

My father in law has an x type and his rear parking sensors are faulty. When he selects reverse he gets a continuous tone despite nothing within range. it does not change when he does get close to a wall. Ive located a parking aid module in the boot... Does anyone have experience of playing about with these systems...am I looking at a faulty sensor which is throwing the whole system into chaos or is it the module? Thanks Gary

I got a dry sump tank fabricated with a narrow top (around 4") but wider square bottom to increase oil capacity. The top also sits well below the bonnet. That way it also allowed me to keep around half of my extended footwell. I use the hydraulic CRB assembly as sold by Burton and superclutch. Been pretty reliable (one problem in 4 years) and it's nice and neat.

Can I add that both my engine mount AND my alternator casing bracket cracked so I'd advise to check both.... My alternator needed replacing and I was on the way back from the Ring. Managed to find a factor who spent literally an hour going thru all his stock and eventually found one identical to the lucas part that came off...it was on their listing as only suitable for a Land rover!..typical CC parts bin approach of the 90's.

sounds like the alternator bracket (as mentioned above),,typical Vx achilles heel..

Thanks

Due to the extortinate price of ACB10's these days, I'm going to give a set of ZZR's a whirl... Any got any feedback to share on pressures and poss camber...I'm assuming they are a radial so we're looking at around 2 deg of camber up front... Any other comments,.. Cheers Gary

Point taken...

Hi Charlie Thats the strange thing...no overheating issues at all...only just recently as coolant was being blown out and even then the warning light for low coolant would come on before the needle got to the red... Another mechanical mystery!

Turns out the sprinter had a head bolt snap...hence the HG leaking