garybee

Quoting A10ROX: Soften rear anti roll bar ... Do you mean the front?

Hello all, I have 4 of 6x13" Caterham anthracite wheels to clear from my garage. They are all in very good condition. I am located in Spilsby, Lincolnshire (near Cadwell Park). I will be going to the Speed Champ Awards lunch (6th April) and to Wolverhampton on the 6th April and the following 2 weeks if that helps. Price is £360. No 'dibs' please, first to transfer me the money will get them. Thanks all Gary Edited by - garybee on 14 Mar 2014 13:18:12

I'd like the pistons and rods please. How much do you want for postage? Cheers Gaz

Thanks for the information guys. I'd forgotten that some of the 1400 blocks were different (top-hung liners). Here is a picture of the engine I have. I can't find any pictures of blocks with 'X pattern ribbing' (so I'm not entirely sure what I'm looking for) but it looks like mine is ok for swapping to the larger bore. Is this correct? http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p113/Garybee_album/20140103_141151_zps63d1a4d8.jpg This engine is from a very late Rover 25. I'm guessing that that makes it more likely to be upgradeable that a 'Caterham' 1400. Oily - thanks very much for your offer, I'd like to take you up on that. Is there any chance you would be able to mail me a set please and how many beer tokens can I supply you with for the pistons/trouble? Edited by - garybee on 3 Jan 2014 18:59:49

I have a 1400k in my garage that I'm intending to rebuild as a 1600 with pistons/liners from an 1800. Does anyone have any experience of removing K Series pistons from 'rods in a way that will allow thier reuse? This makes sense only due to getting it all V cheap of course. Thanks in advance Gary

I'd like to buy these please:- o used 4 x centre caps for 15" anthracite 10-spoke wheels (no badges) - £5 inc P&P o 4 as new plastic centre caps for KN Minators, with yellow badges - £12 inc P&P How do you want paying? Cheers Gary

Hi Dave I would like to buy the head, pistons/rods and lifters please. E-mail sent a few minutes ago. cheers Gary

Willie - thanks for the e-mail Simon - Thanks very much for the offer. Unfortunately I'm not able to weld aluminium so I'm looking to get a couple of steel flanges made up that I can mig weld to. Cheers Gary

Not in a rush at all as It's for a winter engine build, that sounds perfect. How much do you want for it?

Looking for a wet sump pan if anyone has a spare they no longer need please. Thanks in advance Gary

Hi, Did you manage to make a CAD file for the sump flange? I am interested in fabricating a sump myself and would be very interested in a copy please. Cheers Gary

Quoting Graham King: db, 100 sounds really hot for normal running, I suspect the gauge isn't that accurate as at that temp the fan would be on permanently. It should run at (or around) the stat opening temp. I have a K and it runs about 80 (I have an 82 degree stat). The gauge and the fan work off different sensors, the gauge sensor is in the water rail, the fan sensor is in the rad. The fan won't necessarily run when the engine is at that temp due to the fan sensor being in the position you describe. If coolant isn't circulating through the rad (for whatever reason) the engine will heat up but the fan won't run as the coolant there is still cold.

I've seen the same happen once. I now use a bleed kit with a one way valve in the bleed hose. I'm not entirely trusting of these though due to the possibility of air entering the system via the bleed screw threads. I think the vacuum bleed kits are the way to go but am just a bit too stingy to buy one.

If there are a set of 1600/1800 pistons and liners I'd very much like them please. Have a 1400 K in the garage that I'd like to turn into a 1600 over the winter. Gary

I'd like to buy the calipers if you can post please. Cheers Gary

Excellent, thanks SM25T! Good idea about the copper pipe, that will do perfectly. I like a free fix 😬

Handy to know, thank you . I don't really need anything as extravagent as a new hose making up though fortunately. All it needs to remove the restriction is a 'U' shaped pipe about 4" long (with beaded ends) and a couple of jubilee clips.

Ta very much, I would apreciate that. I'm happy with the routing the way it is, it just needs a rigid pipe where the tight bend is.

Is anyone aware of the internal diameter of the hoses used for the Apollo tank? Car is a 1600K 2004 Academy car (in case this is relevant). I don’t like the tight bend in the lower hose between the alternator belt and tank connection. The hose has flattened out slightly which will be causing a restriction. I’m going to replace that section of hose with a section of rigid pipe but need to know the hose internal diameter to do so. Car not with me at the moment so apologies if it’s written on the hose. Thanks all Gary

I'd really like to buy the 16" wheels and tyres if they're still available. PM sent Gary

Is yours EU2 or EU3? If the latter then it should work with any generic OBD reader. EU2 engines need Rover specific software though unfortunately (although I haven't tried to connect to one to confirm). I use a generic ELM327 reader on my EU3 k-series. I would recommend the Android app Torque and a Bluetooth adaptor if you have an Android phone. It's excellent. Edit: for some reason I assumed we were talking about K engined cars here. Need to know the engine/ECU type really to give a definitive answer. Edited by - garybee on 17 Sep 2013 12:09:45

Entry accepted yesterday afternoon Looking forward to the weekend!

I'd like the gearbox lid please. How much do you need for postage? Cheers Gary

Never mind, usually the way just after you get rid of something. All sorted now anyway.

Quoting Jonathan Kay: Can't picture how that straightening trick works... more details, please. Thanks Jonathan If you pack out beneath the wheel nut with washers, tightening the nut will pull the stud tight against it's 'head'. As the nut is pulling against the face of the hub the stud will always align itself as you go.