garybee

Quoting Mark W: Theres one in the for sale section ! Thank you. I've already posted in that thread/sent a PM but am trying other avenues too as he does say he wants to wait a couple of weeks for the best offer. I'm hoping to have the car ready for Blyton sprint (a week before would be nice) so can't really wait that long.

Pm sent Gary

Does anyone have a nose cone for a 2004 S3 they don't need? This is 'hopefully' the last major bit I need to get the car sprinting again after my big off earlier this year. Colour/condition not important. Thanks Gary Edit: Thanks all, got one now Edited by - garybee on 27 Aug 2013 12:43:54

Quoting revilla: The bypass hoses were very hot. The heater matrix was fully up to temperature. I had flow everywhere except for through the radiator. Ah, that's a lot better then. In which case your temp sensor should be a good reflection of the coolant in the head. I think if the temp raised by more than about 5 deg above the fan 'cutting in' point you can be pretty sure coolant isn't flowing properly. You could always trip the fan manually and check to see if the temp drops (so long as you're above 'stat opening temp). Might mean you get to stop it a bit sooner.

Quoting revilla: My main question though still stands - and garybee I totally take your point that the temperature sensor is not very useful if water isn't circulating - does anyone have any idea how to tell how long it is safe to keep running the engine trying to get it to circulate without running the risk of damaging it? Obviously it needs to run up to and beyond the normal thermostat opening point before you know you've got a problem, at which point if things aren't circulating you could already have some very hot spots in the head. 😬 I don't agree that it necessarily needs to run up to thermostat opening temp before an issue becomes apparent. The bypass hose should have coolant flow all the time. If this isn't getting hot (or starts to get cooler during running) then you're not getting flow. Forgot to put this in my previous post...sorry.

If it's airlocked there's no guarantee that the coolant temp sensor is providing useful information anyway. No coolant flow means the heat staying in the head/block as opposed to being transported away/past the coolant sensor.

Gotcha' I would say that the slightly loose joint could well be the reason why the RHS didn't fail. So long as you torque up the fittings for the replacement with the car on the ground you should have nothing to worry about then.

Quoting CharlesElliott: Mine is also a 2004 Academy but I still race mine! Assuming box and engine are still together, the only things you need off are manifold and engine mounts. Lower the box/engine into position, re-fit mounts, drop a bit lower and re-fit manifold. Does sprinting it not count? Nice to have confirmation, thanks Charles.

Thanks Grubbster , that's just what I needed. I do have the 'in engine bay' 4-1 which was a pain to remove (even with the judicial use of a hacksaw) so I will expect some annoyance at that point.

Ah, I think I understand what's going on on the RHS. Does the bolt have a long plain (unthreaded) portion and the washers were an attempt to stop the nut/bolt becoming 'threadbound' (nut tightening against end of thread before joint is tightened)?

Thanks mankee . By engine mounts I was meaning the steel box section mount as opposed to the rubber block. The steel mounts do look a bit wide though so I was thinking they'd probably have to come off. Did you remove these or just the rubber blocks?

Unless I've misunderstood you I think you're concern about the bolt you've fitted to the RHS of the A-Frame is entirely unfounded. So long as the bolt is long enough, any spare length is just sat in free space. In which case it doesn't matter if it's a foot too long, it has no impact on the joint. Is it possible that you torqued the bolts up with the car still on axle stands? If this is the case then the bush/A-frame will be heavily stressed with the car on the ground. This could conceivably lead to failure at that point. Can't help with where the bolt should have been though. Are Caterhams really so well supplied that there is a bolt for every purpose and they are all the correct length, no spares etc? Edited by - garybee on 22 Aug 2013 21:38:14

After a bit of information here please. I have a 1600-K with 'box to put back in our car after a long front. What can I leave fitted? I wasn't particularly gentle on removal (used a hacksaw and sledge to make room) so it's quite possible that there is a lot more fitted to it than it can go in with. The car is a 2004 academy (fixed diagonals) and the engine is a 1600-K with rover plenum, standard exhaust and 5-speed Type-9. Currently it has the starter, alternator, both engine mounts and the inlet (but not exhaust) manifold fitted. The lifting points I'm using are the one on the rear of the head and one bolted to the R/H engine mount. Found lots of advice that necessitates the removal of the diagonals so not sure how much to remove when that isn't possible. I will be leaving the sledge and hacksaw at home just in case I get frustrated. Thanks in advance Gary

The "large cast fitting" is an 'evaporator'. It is designed to evaporate any drips of coolant that make it past the shaft seal. Coolant degrades the cam belt. You are fine to fit either but you will probably get people telling you that one or the other is best. Essentially...the evaporator may stop your timing belt degrading due to coolant contamination. As it does this by evaporating small leaks past the shaft seal it could hide the early signs of water pump failure. If your water pump fails and dumps all the coolant on the ground you could quickly cook your engine. If your timing belt fails your engine will smash all the valves into the pistons.

I'd like to buy the radiator if you would consider selling that separately.

That's good to know. I found the PTP one whilst searching yesterday. That will probably be what I end up buying but figured it was worth asking just in case anyone had a spare.

I'm looking for a lightweight flywheel for a 1600 K-series if anyone has one. Please let me know if so. Ta Gary

My local hardware store has these, as does B&Q. I think they're still pretty common.

This one has two sensor ports (M12x1.5) so you may not be interested. I've put it through the parts washer at work and it is free from cracks. Let me know if you want pictures/measurements etc. Sadly I haven't even had the time to start stripping the car yet. Looking forward to getting my commuting car fixed so I can start pulling the Caterham to bits.

I have one from a late Rover 200 in my garage. I'll have a look at it in the morning and post back here with details.

Now sold

Ta, will send pictures tomorrow morning.

Quoting Paul Deslandes: is it Caterham 'standard' S3 compatible, ie. 7" with splined drive shaft coupling? Only problem is how to get it to Surrey at sensible cost Edited to add Just checked and can get reasonable carrier rate on-line. Do you have any pics showing condition? Any mileage info available? Thanks Paul Edited by - Paul Deslandes on 22 Jun 2013 16:51:50 Hi, Yes it is a standard 'push in' diff' for an S3. I have had the back plate off and it is all in good condition inside. I'm afraid I do not know how many miles it has covered though. If you would like to send me your email address I would be happy to send pictures. Cheers Gary

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