Ade Ray

Hi everyone I am just coming to the end of fitting a dry sum system to my crossflow and I have run into a few problems. The pump is a 5 port from Pace but it did not come with a pick up pipe. The union is 5/8ths so I sourced a 5/8ths pick up pipe from Burton Power. The thread fits fine but when the nut is tightened the pipe still has room to move in to the pipe. I am sure that this cannot be right but do not know what to do. Also, the oil pressure sender no longer fits into the block as it is being fouled by one of the ports on the pump. I think I can get by this by fitting an adapter from Think Automotive which I can mount the sender on the side of. What I do not know is the size of the thread for the sender or the hole in the block it came out of. If anyone knows I would be grateful. Also... Also, The steering column is getting in the way of the return port from the remote oil filter. I think I can get by this by inverting the universal joint between the column and the steering rack. has anyone else had to do this?. Did anyone do anything different? The nuts securing the joint seem an odd size, a number 13 is just too big, could they be Whitworth measurements? Any help would be gratefully received. Ade Ray

Hi Peter I am interested in a crankshaft and possibly the conrods. What sort of condition are the cranks in? ie is there any rust. Do you have any means of measuring the journal sizes? How much money are we talking? Have either of the cranks been double-dowelled for the fly-wheel. (I could go on but wont) Cheers Ade

Sorry to hear about your problem. I am currently rebuilding my brothers ex 1700 XFlow and would be happy to share my experiences to date when you find out what has gone wrong. With this engine it seems the dry sump pump seized causing it and the camshaft to shed gear teth and the lack of oil/metal bits caused a bearing to fail. Good luck Ade

Hi dt Has the crank been lapped yet? I only ask from bitter experience as one of the cranks that I acquired had been tuftrided and then left resulting in rust forming under the tuftriding due to the salts in the process and thereby rendering the crank unusable. You are right, new cranks from Burton are expensive which is why I am trying the second hand route. What price do you want for yours? Email if you like for privacy. Cheers Ade

Hi Tony Thanks for the number. I have a thread going on the 'Wanted' forum, if it's Ok with you I shall see where I have got to after the week end and then give you a call. many thanks Ade

Hi Tony Sounds interesting Tony. Has the crank been double dowelled? Ade

Hi Steve No, I,ve not spoken to Rory. If I do not get myself sorted via this route then I will speak to Simon and perhaps ask him to have a word. Hi Peter I believe that I am. When Mr King upgraded Simon's 1600 XFlow to it's current spec, there were no changes to the crank other than double dowling and tuftriding. This is according to the notes that came back with Simon's engine. Ade

I need a cast iron crankshaft for a crossflow (711-AE)but it must be in top nick The dream team spec: Standard size for cap and pin journals Double dowelled With bearing in and in working order No rust Not out of a damaged engine ( ie from a car that has gone to steel internals) tuftrided and lapped I will pay good money for one such as this I would also be interested in cranks that are one size under and not double dowelled at the appropriate price but I need the other specs. Hope you can help Ade Ray

Many thanks for the replies. I have just re-measured the crank and the main cap journals are really at the minimum already so I do not think it will stand another grind. Looks like I'm on the hunt for another crank! My brother say's my shed is begining to look like Cranks-R-Us, I think he was trying to be funny. Ade Ray

I am trying to source a suitable replacement crankshaft. I have picked up one today and it is ideal in that it has been double dowelled, but.... The crank has sat in a shed for a while and has some surface rust that would have eaten into the tuftriding that was originally carried out. The crank is already undersize but I think it could drop another size Question 1: Would it be worth have the crank re-ground? Question 2: Can I have the crank re-hardened in some way after it has be re-ground, ie tuftriding or nitriding(?) ? Any thoughts and comments would be invaluable. Many thanks Ade Ray

Sorry I have been away from my desk. The camshaft is being replaced with a like for like 244 cam from kent Cams as the original had some teeth knocked off it by the dry sump pump. The scored bearing is the far end one from the retaining plate. Cheers Ade

I am well into the rebuild of my brothers old engine but I am unhappy with one of the camshaft bearings that has a rough mark extending 3/4 of the way round the centre of the bearing, probably caused by some dirt or swarf when the engine whent pop. It is my intention to replace the bearings but they look like they will be difficult to fit. Does anybody know the correct procedure and/or if any specialist tools are required. Most grateful for any info. Ade

Thanks Bro, took the words right out of my mouth/keyboard. Sorry, I have been away from my study. The size of the tank is 305mm X108mm. According to the DT catalogue (page230) that makes it a 4 pint manual ACCU1 Trying to be fair about this, Neil - could you email me your telephone number and we go from there. Cheers Ade

Hi Chris Please email your address and a contact telephone number to me and I will phone you to arrange stuff. Cheers Ade

With mounting brackets It did have two small cracks in the left hand edge but these have been carefully repaired by me and it takes my 15 stone without complaint (well not too much!) £25.00 +p&p Ade

Includes cylinder, hose, steel block to connect hose to engine block and relocate oil pressure sender (x-flow), manual on/off brackets and handles, mounting brackets, jubille clips and instruction booklet sent to me from the good ole USA. I have taken it off my car in advance of fitting dry sump gear. It has all been cleaned and the tank pressure tested. apparently they are fitted to a lot of turbo powered porsches!? £40.00 Ade

Chris It did cross my mind that the cables could be fouling but the engine revs and fades even in neutral without the clutch pedel being depressed. rossybee Shame on you, that was dreadful! Thanks Ade

Yes I know it's only got three cylinders but my wifes daewoo Matiz has got a bit of a problem that if anyone could shed some light on I would be most grateful. After a trip of about 125 miles with no problems, on our way back from Salisbury the car seems to have developed an unusual idle charecteristic of alternately revving and fading when the clutch is depressed. With the clutch engaged the car will quite happily pull along at 15 miles an hour with no assistance from us. It seems more than just an idle issus due to the varying revs but I am clueless. Anyone have any ideas. Cheers Ade

Sale now agreed, thanks to all Ade

Hi all, the photo's are done, I am just trying to figure out how to get them to you. It might help if you could forward your own email adress's to ade-lisa@gabor.fsnet.co.uk Cheers Ade

Hi V7 In answer to your question I used a standard 'jelly' type paint remover doing small areas at a time and then rinsing off with plenty of cold water. It's a bit messy but the result was good. The only problem I found was that the original painting company must have keyed the surface before priming so If the company that painted your nose did the same it will not come out 'Factory Finish' that is why I opted to give the thin laquer coat - it is easy to remove if someone whants to paint it and you can matt it down if you want the 'I'm a hard racing driver' look. Hi Chris I'll have some photo's to you shortly. Ade

As those who attended a practice for Curborough last year may remember I knocked a fellow sevener's seven resulting in me putting a crack in the left hand leading edge of his carbon fibre nose cone. I of course replaced the nosecone and I have recently taken possession of the broken nose. The repair was as folows: The badge was carefully removed but the clips and bonnet strip were left. The original paint was carefully removed and the crack carefully re-set with an underside support of fibreglass tissue, cut to shape to keep it's use minimal with the resin impregnated with carbon to give it a black finish. The resin was squeezed through the crack and then sanded back with 1200 wet and dry. No filler was used. The nosecone has not been repainted but has been given a thin layer of laquer to protect it. If people are interested then I will email some photographs of the nose and a close up of the repair. £200 is the price. Ade

Hi all Thanks for the replies. yes the distributer tetth are fine. The camshaft was a 244 from Kent cams. I have already obtained a replacement crank that has been tuffrided, as for the block it is my intention to blow out the airways with compressed air which has worked well for the sump pan. The oil pump is scrap as the spindle collar is broken as well as the gear. Interesting about the bronze gear for the oil pump, where would I get such a thing. Infact does anyone know where I can source a replacement Titan oil pump? Cheers Ade

Help me out here... I have been slowly dismantling my brothers old dry sumped 1700 X-flow and the number of broken bits suddenly escalated today. Originally I thought a bearing had failed on the number 2 conrod as I found loads of swarf, a bent con rod and a crank with bearing material welded onto it. As I was cleaning out the dry sump pan I today i found some curiously shaped bits of metal. On further investigation I find that teeth were missing from the camshaft and the gearing for the Titan oil pump. On closer inspection the teeth missing from the cam shaft 'looks' like a structural failure as the edges are jagged and crystalline. The missing teeth (3) from the oil pump gear have been sheared off with a smooth, curved cut. In addition the housing around the oil pump spindle is cracked and the spindle seems reluctant to turn. Just to make things more interesting, I found a bright metal score mark in the bottom of the sump pan as if the bearing that failed hat hit it, but I do not know when in the sequence of events. As a piece if back ground info, Simon was racing at Lydden an he noticed a harsh noise followed by a gradual seizing of the engine. So....what gave way first, was it the pump, the cam shaft or the bearing? Should I be checking anything else, not that I think there is much else to check? If any budding engineering Sherlocks out there can tell me what was going on I would be most interested. Ade

OOOOOps double post Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent Edited by - Ade Ray on 1 Mar 2003 12:29:09