Ade Ray

last night but found that none of my allen keys seemed to fit. My car first saw the light of day in 1996 although I do not know when the engine was produced. Is it possible that my keys are metric and I need a different set. I am a bit b######d if I ruin the bolt ends using the wrong stuff. Any ideas?? Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

One of my negotiators is looking for some second-hand Zetec S alloys for her V reg Fiesta. Tyres are currently 165 70 R13 but she would consider a larger size as long as still appropriate. Does anyone have any of these they are thinking of selling or know a good place she can check out. Regards Ade

One of my sales negotiators is looking for some decent alloys for her Fiesta. Her preference is Zetec S. Currently her tyres are 165 70 R13 but she is thinking about 15" wheels aswell. Does anyone have any of the above that they are thinking about selling or know where we can look? Regards Ade

Thanks John, it might be Saturday now before I get a chance to play. Did have time to change the plugs and although there was some improvement she still isn't right and I ambegining to feel that the carbs are to blame in some shape or fashion. Speak to you later Many thanks Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

Hi guys Yet more useful info. I am going to try the plugs first. The replacement dizzy cap and rotor I have on order but are a couple of days away. The thought of playing around with the idle jet screw adjuster (thingy) sounds interesting. Are they easily identifiable once I take the top caps off? Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

Is it possible that my idle jets are not set correctly? Does anybody know what the correct setting for the idle jets on a 1600 xflow are? I went to my area meet this evening, Car started 2nd time when I left home to go to the meet. It again started 2nd time on my way home (good blat coming home-20 minute journey). When I got home I had to move my wifes car out of the way so I could get Katie in the garage so I stopped my car, moved Lisa's and when I went back to mine She started but then cut out with a cough and then resolutely failed to start again as before. Tomorrow I will try a change of plugs and I might just change the dizzy cap and rotor just for the hell of it. Thanks chaps Ade *confused*Ray Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

I have forgotten his name now (I hang my head in shame) but there was a guy at curborough who specialises in panel beating and re-bodying (?) cars. His car was the one with the aluminium nosed se7en. Again I am sure it would not be cheap but this guy if you could track him down might be the sort of person to fashion a cool looking heat guard????? It's only a thought Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

Ok, the story so far... The test we did to check the starter motor was to engage reverse, leave the clutch out and turn the key. The starter motor pushed the car back no problem so we have assumed (hopefully correctly) that it is OK. We then looked at the dizzy. It was all dry inside and the contacts/rotor arm did need a little clean but it was only very slight. Of the spark plugs, the plugs serving cylinders 1 and 2 were slightly carbonised, 3 & 4 were fine. WE checked the first and last plugs for a spark and they were fine. At this point I phoned John E (thanks John). John suggested checking all plugs and we did just that and we got a spark from all four. I think the front two plugs are carbonised because prior to Curborough I was running with unbalanced carbs. Simon sorted them out with his handy gadget on the Sunday. We also checked the cylinders for fuel and we found that all was ok. We feel that if I was having a problem with fuel supply or the electrics, there would be some manifestation during the running of the car? John also mentioned that I might have too much fuel in the cylinders and that turning the car over with the plugs out would clear the excess fuel from the cylinders. We had a think about this and we also looked at the way I was trying to start the car. My tendency was to give 3 or 4 full pumps on the throttle and then have the throttle fairly open as I turned the key. We thought that this could be a problem with me dumping too much fuel into the cylinder. We went for a start with no priming and just a blip of throttle and she started first time. We are still not convinced that this is necessarily the answer and I will probably find out tomorrow morning but we do not know what else to check after looking at the above. Thanks very much for all the help so far and if anyone has any other ideas please let me know. Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

THanks John, I'll post later once I have had a chance to look things over. Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

Anthony Thanks for the detailed response. My main dilema seems where to start looking and after your post it seems to be sensible to start with the easy things and then work my way downhill to the nasty jobs. The fuel/carbs could well be still an issue. The funny noise I get is occasional but does seem to manifest after I have been trying to start the car a few times. I wondered if it was an over-priming of the carb from me continuing to depress the throttle as I turn the key. Is it possible to over prime the carbs? Thanks again Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

Thanks for the info, looks like I am looking forward to a day under the car tomorrow ❗ Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

I have to say I would not know if my starter is of the pre-angaged variety or not. How would I tell? Sorry to be a bear of little brain. Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

I've never had to bump start the car, it has always (fingers crossed) eventually started. As I mentioned before I am not very familiar with dizzys/rotor arms although I am prepared to have a look as it is my day off tomorrow. The spark plug leads 'look' ok and as for the plugs themselves I will take them out this evening and have a look. As for storage of the car, she is stored in a sort of open backed garge, ie under cover and enclosed to the front and side. I allways thought that this was a good set up because she stays dry but it is well ventilated. Condensation I suppose could be an issue, sometimes my instrument dials do fog slightly but I do not know if you can relate this? Once the car is running, it is generally fine. I had been having a problem with the carbs being out of balance after I overtightened one but my brother seemed to have sorted that at Curborough. The carbs do have a tendency to get out of balance quickly but then I do a lot of miles in Katie. Thanks Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

After my last starting episode I am begining to think that it is my starter motor. Just before the Katie finally started I got a rattle, a clunk and then the car started. The next time the car started first time but it was not a clean start. Could the rattle and clunk be the starter gear sorting itself out (temporarily)? If the gear is sticking - is this mendable or am I looking at replacement? Thanks Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

Thanks guys I am certain the battery connections are sound and I have replaced my battery master switch about a month ago. I have not been anywhere near the dizzy cap/rotr arm etc. I have to say I am not sure what I should be looking for when I take the dizzy cap off. Also, if the dizzy cap is a problem are they simple to replace or is adjustment required? Sorry for sounding such a mechanical numbskull! Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

Hi all My 1600 Xflow has been getting worse at starting. It used be just in the morning when it would take two attempts to start after I had primed the carbs. My efforts would be rewarded with the usual whine and no turn over. This started to get worse, manifesting itself even when the car was warmed through. I almost got caught out after I turned the engine off in the holding area at Curborough. My brother suggested a duff battery as the car seemed more likely to catch with an open throttle and Simon's opinion was that I was putting less strain on the battery. So last night I changed the battery and all seemed well with the car firing up no problem although it was still warm. This morning however we are back the same old story where it took me 20 go's to get her started. Additional useful information: Sometimes when I get a 'half' start and then it cuts out with vapour coming back out of the carbs and an unusual 'water down a plug hole' sound. I also seem to be getting more of that brown petrol vapour/oil mix down the side of my car underneath the carbs. I am open to any suggestions as to where to look next. Many thanks Ade ☹️ Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

Thanks Steve Great info, I think I will get a replacement sealed unit to tide me by and then order the Halogen set as recommended. Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

Hi Graham (or is it Mr Butty) My email at home seems to be having a wobbly. If you like you can email me at work on enquiries@firstresidential.softnet.co.uk and I will pick up on Monday. As to what sort of wheels, I will have a look tomorrow and post more info (hopefully). As to bolts, I do have a spare bag of wheel bolts but they are bog standard Caterham jobs rather than anything fancy. Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

Nothing seems to be simple on my car at the moment ❗ I will check the fuses tomorrow, other than that it is a trip to my local motor parts place. Does anyone know what the upgrade to Halogen lamps would cost ball park? Many thanks for advice Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

and I am very confused at what I found. I noticed on the way home that one of my headlamps was not working. The headlamp seams to be a sealed glass unit. The only bit that comes out the back is a tiny 5W bulb with E2 2E3 printed on the side. The rest of the internals of the headlamp seam to be sealed in with connections coming through to a black plastic box (my descriptive skills are not good this evening). I cant believe that the bulb I have taken out is the main bulb so how do I access the rest? Is the small bulb available from Halfrauds/local motor factors. Heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelp Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

OK - I'm obviously asking to much. How about some offers and I will see if it is worth selling or hanging on to them. Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

Unfortunately yes Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

OOPS, forgot to say that they are 13" standard width wheels. Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

Metallic grey middles and pale gold rims. Pretty good condition with no knocks, dents in rims - top clear laquer slightly flaked around bolt holes . Come with 008R's attached that are not as bald as Yul Bryner but it is close ❗ £180.00 purchaser can collect from Rugby or Leamington Spa Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent

I have a 96 live axle car and I was getting a clonk, particularly when I went around left hand corners. My brother checked my car for end float but there did not seem to be much movement at all. Even so, on inspection by Caterham Midland, it proved to be a 1/2 shaft moving in its bearings. Caterham did a great fix for me for about £125 in April and since then it has been through 7,000 road miles and two Curborough sprints with no more clonk. Hope this helps. Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent