Q Catcher
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Everything posted by Q Catcher
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Yep, they wear. Each pre-MoT check involves taking them apart, filling the sockets with Copaslip, reassembling them and wiping off the excess Copaslip.
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Yep, taper seat spark plugs don't follow the old 1/4 turn rule. Probably best to stick with the original spec plugs, but it may be worth noting that on some Ford engines from the noughties there were updates that recommended changing from a '5' heat grade to a '6' (that's the number in the middle of the code) and using a 0.8mm gap (as opposed to the originally recommended 1mm) if there was a problem with misfiring.
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Thank you, Giles and Moz, for the excellent help above. And yes, SM25T, I can happily wait, especially since I now know I need to get Cleco pins and Waxoyl!
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I fitted new spherical bearings in the wishbones last year. I used molybdenum grease on them. This may or may not be of great help to you, but: I found it helps if you get the wishbones nice & warm before fitting the new bearings (e.g. with a hot air heater) and the bearings cold by putting them in the fridge for a couple of hours.
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I've bought a lowered floor for the driver's side of my SV. Before I emabark on the task of fitting it, can anyone who's fitted one offer any tips or advise on any pitfalls encountered?
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I've just rebuilt my car with new de Dion & ears and ... the rear toe-in is different from one side to the other. On the geo check one was 14 mins and I've forgotten already what the other was, but it was several mins less. And that's with a Watts linkage. (I didn't really pay enough attention, 'cos I was really interested in the front at the time.) The ears are supposedly 1.5 deg negative camber, but they are in fact both slightly greater.
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The new grille looks great, thanks!
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Check out the write-ups that Yokahama Advan Neova AD08R's get online. And better wet ratings than R1R's.
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Out of interest, what is the torque setting for the nut on the inboard end of the stub axle?
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Brilliant! Many thanks.
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Anyone know what the size is for the spare wheel fitting bolt? I've measured it and the thread is 9.4mm diameter, so I presume that'll be 3/8 in old money (Fahrenheit ...). And how's the thread described? UNF, UNC, something else??
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They say you shouldn't use (red) OAT anti-freeze if the car has silicone hoses; but OK if rubber hoses.
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Yes, I've done the measuring. The nearside ball joint is 2mm nearer to the centre line of the chassis than the offside one if I fit it (the offside one) with 8 threads showing. The new offside balljoint seems to have the same number of threads as the old one. But I'll double-check that last point in the morning. I think I'm going to have to make up a camber gauge and figure it out from first principles unless anyone can explain the mystery. (Or am I so thick I'm missing something obvious? Has been known.)
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Thanks, guys. I've emailed them. Grenpayne - Geoff told me you were incommunicado, so I didn't ask you in the first instance, but clearly should have! Edited by - Q Catcher on 31 May 2014 23:16:33
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Answer to Mav: yes, it was 41 turns. And I double-checked the "inboard" length of the thread from the locknut to the end of the threaded part of the old component against the new one before fitting it and I made them identical, prior to fitting the first time (the 8-threads "rule") and the new one went in 41 turns. Answer to Simon: great idea. I'll do that.
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Once the SV is (re-)built, I'm going to need a chassis setup expert to check/align it. On Day 1, its first trip will have to be to the MoT centre, then ideally I'd like to go straight to someone not too far away who can help with the front suspension in particular. I'm near Newbury. There's one garage in Newbury with 3-D chassis/wheel alignment kit (Miller's Garage) but while they're very friendly, and I may well use them, they're all-makes, rather than Caterham experts. I've heard on the grapevine that there's a Caterham expert somewhere near Witney, but I can't find anything on Google. Does anyone know of someone local to me?
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So ... fitting a new top balljoint to the top OSF wishbone on my 2002 SV. Apparently, the build manual says 8 threads should be showing outboard of the locknut. I can do this, which indeed would replicate the old item I took off. So far so good ... However, the question is: why does this not make it symmetrical with the nearside, which hasn't been touched since the factory built it in 2002? The nearside has only 5 or 6 threads showing and the measurements from the balljoint to the chassis are 2mm less than the offside if I set the offside at 8 threads. If I wind the (new) offside balljoint in by two turns (2mm), ie 6 threads showing, the measurements match the nearside. Hmm. For questions re chassis set-up experts near me, please see other thread. Thanks
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Richard No problem, your email has appeared and I am about to post you a template of the nosecone aperture.
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Rich If you mail me your address, I'll send you a cardboard template of the profile of the aperture in the nosecone, so you can advise which grille is the best fit and save any unnecessary to-ing and fro-ing.
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Every cloud ... the slightly fatter "old" ear and its associated aluminium shim have added 1.5mm to the track width on that side of the car, exactly balancing out the A-frame alignment error. So amazingly, the hub locations are symmetrical to within 1mm. An occasional bit of good luck.
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Thanks for the advice, guys. I will now continue the rebuild with the parts I've got.
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If I recall, I did a similar repair with fatter, rounder O rings, a couple of years ago, and it all worked OK in the end. Being a cautious type, I also added K-Seal to the coolant. K-Seal is a really good leak sealant (different from Radweld).
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Thank you to spider and Nigel. Now to the questions: can I get the old type, or do I need to purchase a second one (and take a second hub apart, ho ho)?
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I'm replacing a damaged aluminium ear on the de Dion on my SV. The one on the right is the new one, the grubby one is in the old one. As you can see, they are different, and to my surprise they are actually different thicknesses, the new one being approx 1mm thinner than the old one, all round. I presume they are not compatible? So: questions: (1) is the old type still available? (2) If not, can the new type only be fitted as a pair? OK, how do I upload a photo? Thanks Edited by - Q Catcher on 25 May 2014 12:03:10 Edited by - Q Catcher on 25 May 2014 12:32:18
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Hi Rich After all these months, I've just got around to fitting the new grille to my SV. Except it doesn't seem to fit quite as I imagined, being somewhat narrower than the hole in the nosecone, particularly at the bottom, but nearer to the full width at the top. Have I got the wrong SV grille, maybe? Thanks Edited to add photo Edited by - Q Catcher on 25 May 2014 12:43:35 Edited by - Q Catcher on 25 May 2014 12:45:21