Q Catcher

There's a second cambelt at the rear of a 1.8 K Series VVC engine. I'm about to attempt to renew it. Does anyone know if there's a special tool/technique for holding the two pulleys in place, so they remain in "register"?

Thanks, SM25T, for that info. I ended up buying a Varta 53030 as it's 30Ah and fits in the battery tray, albeit still with the minor issue of the terminals being the "wrong" way round, like on the RMD25. I opted for 30Ah 'cos the immobiliser seems to take a noticeable current from the battery, enough to reduce it to "won't quite start" status in about 10 days, and I was worried that 20Ah would make this worse. Even though I've now taken the plunge, I'd be interested to know how long the RMD25 lasts without trickle-charging, assuming you've got an immobiliser fitted.

Anyone know what the options are to the Banner, other than Powervamp? E.g. does anyone know the Varta product code? Another Sevener recommended an "896" type, but I bought one and though you can (just) persuade it to fit into the battery tray, it's too tall and the bonnet pretty much touches the terminals, so I took it back. Powervamp seems expensive to a skinflint like me ...

I first read Motoman's method under the heading of Moto-tune USA in about 2004. It's been adopted by quite a few people in the bike world. It seems hard to believe, but it does seem to work.

Thanks. I've now understood the submarine; I think the J-hose you (we) have got is shorter and doesn't look like the one in Mr Locust's photo; and think I can see the stat housing on the end of the J-hose, low-ish down near the front of the offside of the cylinder block. So if I blank off the top of the submarine pipe, does Mr Locust then suggest using the heater hose on the offside of the engine as the place for tee-ing in the connection from the header tank?

If your brake light switch is the same as mine was - the black plastic Talbot Horizon switch (forever having to take it apart to clean soot from the terminals) - then I strongly suggest you change it for a 2CV one, 'cos they fit and are reliable for literally decades. Just don't forget to order the 2CV hex nut as well, 'cos the Talbot hex nut won't fit it. You'll have to bend the Seven's bracket a bit to move the 2CV switch nearer to the brake pedal, but that's very easy too.

Glad I found this thread. I'm thinking of replacing the hoses with silicone ones this year. My car's a 2002 1.8 VVC K-series. I do all my own servicing (e.g. replaced the coolant when I bought the car in 2008, no probs) but have idly wondered about the cooling system design. There are some basics I haven't sussed - like where's the stat, what's that alloy casing near the dipstick and what's the submarine you guys refer to? Anyway, main question is, can I do Mr Locust's suggested mod at the same time as fitting new silicone hoses, and if so, what hoses/components should I buy and where from?

The black plastic mechanical switch is off a Talbot Horizon. It fails routinely, because its electrical contact areas within the switch are very small and quickly carbon up. You can remove and carefully dismantle the switch (take care not to lose the spring!) and then modify it by bending the two long brass prongs inwards so that they create larger contact areas with the static plate. This will last a lot longer. I did this to my car in the Summer and it hasn't failed again yet; I checked my mate's Seven and found that someone had previously done the mod and it's working fine. I too had decided to fit a motorcycle switch, as they're very robust, so I've got a Honda rear brake switch (off a VFR 750) ready & waiting in case my Seven's switch should fail again, but so far, so good.

In case anyone's interested in fitting a 12v outlet to their Seven: the Ford part is good, part number F1333905, costs £4.54 inc VAT and has a fold-over plastic cap to keep the rain out. It looks weirdly similar, even down to the packaging, to the one Caterham offer for about £12. You'll need a 27mm hole cutter for the dashboard. Edited by - Q Catcher on 5 Nov 2009 12:24:52

Thanks. Somebody ought to tell Caterham ...

Don't know. But it's too long. Even with the tensioner at the end of its travel, the belt is slack. I'll send it back.

Bank holiday job: change the cambelt. Got the old one off ... ah, the new one is longer. Same width, same tooth pitch, but 2 teeth longer (145 rather than 143 on the old one). Old part number is LHN 100830, new part number is LHN 100560. Got it from Caterham Cars, and their advice note / invoice says "CAMSHAFT TIMING BELT K1.6 & 1.8 & VVC 98> LONG". So have they sent me the right one? Has there been a change to longer cambelts, for some reason? Anyone know?

Many thanks for the answers, really appreciated.

... would appreciate some help with a few things. (It's my first Seven: an SV Roadsport 150. I'm addicted already.) Firstly, what should the tyre pressures be? It's on 16 inch five spokers, wearing Avon ZZ1 205/45ZR16s Secondly, what's the switch on the far left hand end of the dashboard for? The one with a brake symbol on it, a kind of sprung rocker switch. (The previous owner didn't know.) Thirdly, the thermostatic fan doesn't seem to cut in and the temp gauge doesn't move, even when the engine's obviously hot. Is there a known problem with, say, the temperature sender unit? Finally, I thought I'd change the fluids. I've done the oil (thanks for the "K Series" oil level info on the website - much appreciated, whoever did that) and now want to do the brake fluid and coolant. Is DOT 4 OK? As for the coolant, any recommendations? And is it a 50/50 mix? Many thanks