Dave McCulloch

Grubbster I don't know if knowledge has move on with this. I ran a classic impreza turbo for six years from new. There was a lot of talk then on sidc about this. It nearly always seemed to be No.3 big end which went - there was a theory that that cylinderran leaner and was more susceptible to detonation. The other common factor seemed to be that a lot of these failures happened a short time after an oil change - which led to another theory about dealers not priming the oil system by cranking with the plugs out to minimise load on the bearings before firing up the engine. When I sold mine at 65k miles in 2006 nobody had found the cause. Good luck Dave

I've just ordered one of these (used to be called Toad Powerkey) to fit along with a keyless ignition setup. One question for those who've fitted these though - what did you do with the yellow wire which is supposed to go to the door courtesy light switch? I believe its purpose is to trigger the immobiliser to start looking for the transponsder when you get into the car. Thanks Dave

As the Clifford virtual key no longer seems to be available and tne link in the original post is for a device that only cuts the main ignition feed and costs Euro 129, what alternatives are there? Thanks Dave

I'm getting a new silencer can made up for my k series next week - a repackable one to mate to my SLR 4 2 1 manifold and collector. There is already a lambda boss in No. 4 primary where the existing narrow band sensor is fitted. However if i want to fit a wide band sensor in due course to use the Emerald adaptive mapping feature can i fit the wide band sensor in the existing boss in No 4 primary or does it need to go in the collector? If so then I'll get them to fit a boss in the collector now. Thanks Dave

Graham I have a Clarke hoist and leveller which I bought 2nd hand and have used twice - it spends most of its time sitting in my garage or shed. You're more than welcome to borrow it and I'm in Felcourt - so only a mile or so from you! BM me or give me a ring on *************** if you want to borrow it. Dave Edited by - Dave McCulloch on 9 Dec 2010 19:24:12 Edited by - Dave McCulloch on 11 Dec 2010 17:42:15

Steve The rears came off my car - which has the below de dion mounting point. TBH I'd leave the spring on, as I don't have a spring compressor (can't remember off the top of my head if you need one to remove rear spring?). Give me a call on 07881 578682 if you're interested. Dave

Finally got round to measuring the battery volts whilst cranking the engine. It drops from 12v to 10.6v whilst cranking - which I think is ok, but can someone confirm? Assuming this is ok, I'm going to remove the starter. Anyone got a guide to stripping and cleaning / re-greasing the solenoid on a Brise starter? Cheers Dave

Trotsky From memory I think the basic dampers are the same for standard and wide track - the difference is the wide track dampers have the extension pieces screwed on (which are shown separately in my photos). There's no sign of any leaking on any of them. Dave

Any interest?

Cheers for the suggestions. I'll check battery voltage - once the starter engages it spins the engine over absolutely fine, which is why that wasn't high on my suspicion list. The battery is probably about 8 years old though, although it's always been kept connected to a trickle charge / battery conditioner. Unfortunately to get the solenoid off means removing the starter motor, which means removing the exhaust system (4-2-1 SLR system) - which is a bit of a pain in the ****! Dave

I fitted a Brise starter motor (the one with the external solenoid hanging below it) about 4 years ago when I fitted the 1900 scholar engine in my K series - and all's been fine until last week. Hadn't started the car for probably 6 weeks (it's always kept on a trickle charger) and when I went to start it the fuel pump whirred as normal, but I was greeted with a loud "clunk" sound but no starter spinning. This happened 2 or 3 times and then the started engaged and the engine fired up fine. It was ok for the rest of the day. Went to move the car yesterday to service it, and same thing again - only it took about 5 or 6 turns of the key before the starter span. The clunk sounds like the started solenoid engaging (it's a lot louder than a relay engaging), but for whatever reason the contact to the started motor itself doesn't seem to be being made. Any ideas what's going on? I'm assuming I'm going to have to remove it and send it back to Brise for a service. Thanks Dave

No worries

I'm having a bit of a clearout and found the following bits which are surplus to requirements: Pair rear Bilstein M0 dampers fitted with standard springs (as came with my 1998 40th Anniversary). Springs are 2.75" diameter. Photos here £50 Pair of front Bilstein M0 dampers - rods move freely / smoothly. Photos here £40 Pair of front springs - 2.75" diameter - I think these were the standard springs that came with my car - marked as Eibach 39/04 / Caterham Cars 77843 Photo here £10 Set of 4 green springs - 2 fronts, 2 rear. Photos here £25 Pair of 2.25" diameter springs - these are black with green paint on both ends. No markings so I've no idea what rate they are. Photo here £offers Pair of 2.75" diameter springs - again no markings so no idea what rate they are. Photos here £offers Set of 4 rod end eyes - 1 of them needs a new bush (I do have the old bush but the centre is slightly damaged). Photo here £15 Pair of damper rod extenders for wide track. Photo here £5 4 conical rear damper top mounts. Photo here £20 Pair adjustable platform adjustor rings Photo here £10 Pair bottom spring mounts Photo here £10 Pair front damper top spring mounts Photo here £10 Not sure what the other fitting in the pic here is - front damper top mount for narrower spring diameter? £offers All prices are plus postage, or collection from East Grinstead. Please reply on this thread. I've guessed for some of the prices, so if I'm miles out please let me know! Cheers Dave

Geoff Entry form for September Cadwell in the post today - loved the track last year in spite of the weather. Dave

Heavenly Any car audio shop will make up a battery lead with terminals properly crimped on to the length you want - I used Road Radio in Crawley to make one up for me. Dave

Peter Yes it is. I'll pm you payment details. Thanks Dave

bump...

This is a sun visor mounted hands free kit. Complete in box with all original accessories - including mains charger, velcro strap and instruction manual. Never used it much as it struggled against the background noise in my convertible, but was fine in my wife's Octavia. Cost new was about £50 a year or so ago. Asking £20 plus £5 postage (recorded delivery) - or can collect from East Grinstead. Dave

Bob - You've got mail

I bought a brand new CSI Airflow battery conditioner at the end of November to use on a tin top. I've had one of these on the Seven for the last 8 years after the previous battery went flat and couldn't be revived, and it always starts however long I've left it - and that battery is still going strong 8 years later. However, I've found that the tin top draws 350mA all the time (the result of 2 immobilisers and an alarm) and the poor old CSI only puts out 300mA - so it's fighting a losing battle. As recommended by Honest John - so it must be good. Comes with crocodile clips and also ring terminals and a quick connector for permanent attachment to battery, plus instructions and the invoice I got with it - as here Cost new was £39 + post. It's literally run connected to the car for about 1 week, so I'm after £25 + £4 post (or you can collect from East Grinstead). Cheers Dave

Oli I got over 11,000 trouble free miles out of that engine and you break it within how few miles . Seriously, hope it doesn't turn out to be too catastrophic. Dave

Malcolm I had exactly this problem with the 205 I've been playing with - though the brakes are no longer standard. Used the Easibleed with no fluid in it (for some reason I can never get this thing to seal properly and always end up with brake fluid spewing out somewhere!) - worked a treat. Dave ps if you want really impressive brakes on your 205, fit the front disks and calipers from a 306 GTI - very impressive stopping power and you can pick them up 2nd hand for fairly sensible money

Mark I'll bring the pads with me. Mines a 40th anniversary (ruby red with silver stripe) - R***PHC. Dave

John - disks are yours - I'll give you a ring when I'm next heading out your way. Roger - thanks for the offer, but at the moment I'll hold out for nearer the asking price - they are pretty much as new and cost me almost £230 . Dave

None of the racers interested? These pads are highly rated for track work. Dave