Dave McCulloch

John Assuming this can be interchangeable with a windscreen (I've got the retaining brackets installed already) I'll take this please. I'm fairly local (East Grinstead) so can collect. Thanks Dave

2nd dibs on aeroscreen please. Dave

You were incredibly unlucky there - I have heard of it happening but only once or twice during the time I owned mine and was a regular on the forums.

I ran one of these for 4.5 years from 30k miles up to 80k and it was fantastic to own. Typically they haven't dropped in value at all (in fact they've gone up) since I sold in November 14. I really miss the combination of practical, fast and discreet. Genuinely interested why it needed a new engine - not a lot generally goes wrong with these - 3 big expense items: clutch, drc suspension failure and oil cooler pipes corroding and leaking, each of which costs between £1,000 and £1,500 to fix. This car has had 2 of those 3 sorted and a brand new engine. I've got no connection to Craig, but looks a good price to me given the above. GLWTS, and hope you don't miss it as much as I do! Dave

Thanks Oily. Can the nut ever be removed after using permanent loctite (or do these sensors never fail), and what is the part No. / reference for permanent loctite? Thanks Dave

Thanks both. Paul, I think I'm going to adopt the grommet method - I'm uncomfortable having a non captive nut inside the airbox. Dave

A quick question to either put my mind at rest or increase my worry levels.... I was giving my 7 a check over before a track day next week, and noticed the inlet air temp sensor dangling. I'm running jenvey throttle bodies with the Bernard Scouse airbox - the IAT sensor goes through a hole in the backplate. However, I can't remember now how it was secured. No nut fell out of the airbox when I removed it, I've tried to use a torch to look down the throttle bodies to see if one's got caught on top of a valve, but can't see one - though I can't see all the way round the valves. I'm assuming the engine hasn't ingested the nut as I'd know about it - it would have been a 10mm nut. Having looked on the DVA website, Dave Andrews recommends using a die to cut a 10mm thread on the sensor (don't know what thread it was as standard) and then using an M10 nut with loctite to secure - which is what I've now done. But I'm now paranoid where the old fixing's gone - and equally the damage the new fixing could do if it goes AWOL too. Thanks Dave

Where does it actually state that it's plated weight that the car has to be rated to tow? I googled this yesterday and the .gov.uk website makes no mention of plated weight. If you followed the same logic we should all get 3 points and a fine for driving a car with a top speed higher than 70mph...... Dave

Brain James Minno trailer for sale. Shared between myself and two other Seven owners for the last 5 years and probably only covered 1000 miles/year in that period. We purchased it 2nd hand and it had all new cables and brakes fitted at that time. New tyres fitted 2 years ago as the old ones were starting to crack. I’d estimate this trailer is around 10 years old. It’s in perfect working condition, no missing, worn or broken parts and all electrics work perfectly. (7 pin plug) INCLUDED ACCESSORIES: Hand winch to assist with loading. Rear steady bars to allow loading when trailer is not hitched to car. Locking hitch High level wheel rack but this has been custom made and is not a Brian James one. Stronghold 8-10" wheel clamp which is Insurance Approved. Diamond 5 rating- high security Level Once assembled, two-part easy fit in under 20 seconds. Being a Minno it fits inside a standard double garage. Offered at £1200 for quick sale. Trailer is located near East Grinstead Dave

Hi interested in these depending on condition and whereabouts. Any damage, how scratched are the and roughly how old thanks Dave

Jonathan I had to "relieve" the corners of the dedion tube and ears with the aid of an angle grinder to give enough clearance when I swapped to 8" wide rears. I assume you don't have the "over the top" rear anti roll bar on yours? I had to remove mine as the drop links fouled on the tyres.... Dave

My Scholar 1900 has now covered about 10k miles since I installed it about 8 years ago - this has been a mix of track and road use, so it's been used "properly"! The only issue I've had in that time is that the front oil gallery broke through resulting in oil in the water - this happened after about 1000 miles and is (now) a known problem. I sleeved the oilway since when all has been fine. Probably jinxed it now! Dave

Adam If Smemly doesn't want the perspex screen, I'm interested. Can you let mw know how much you want and comfirm it's undamaged. Is the screen surround black pack? If not, I don't need the surround. I'm only in East Grinstead so can collect. Thanks Dave

"sold" to andy_h who wants the stanchions as well. Dave

Ok, this is available again as it's still on our dining table....... Dave

2nd dibs on the rods please if MAV doesn't take them. Dave

My passenger side rack gaitor has split on my 1998 car - where can I source a replacement? I presume replacement is as simple as it looks? Need to remove ball joint from track rod end then slide old gaitor off? Thanks Dave

Sold (well given away...) to Dalongbloke who mailed me at 20.41. Ian, thanks for the pointer. My logic is most people go from ali to black pack (as I've done, hence I don't think the ali stanchions have any real value - And I just want rid of the whole lot! Dave

Available as I've replaced it with a 2nd hand black pack screen I bought recently. OK - there is a catch. The heated screen has 2 cracks in it - 1 in the very bottom left corner (where a passenger hung onto the screen as they got into the car ), the other on the driver's side coming in from the edge and which is probably an MoT fail - it just comes into the area swept by the wipers. There are also a large number of small chips in the surface. It comes with both stanchions. It will need a good polish as well. Free to anyone who wants it and can collect from East Grinstead - before it goes to the tip. Would be fine if you wanted to get a glazier to cut a replacement glass. Cheers Dave

Dartford used to be open on a Saturday morning didn't it? Was a while ago I last went there though! Dave

Does anyone know what the difference is between the stays listed on the Caterham parts site as "for 13/14" wheels" and the race stays? Both left and right race stays seems to be out of stock as are the RH 13/14" stays - which stuffs my plans to try to pick p a pair from Dartford tomorrow! Thanks Dave

Thanks both - I'll probably go for 10mm to give a bit of leeway. Dave

My car originally had 15" wheels with the 15" wheel wing stays. Some years ago I swapped to 13" minilites and ever since my cycle wings have looked daft due to the size of the gap between the tyres and wings. As I've recently acquired a pair of 13" cycle wings (which are about to go off for painting), I've decided to lower the front wing stays at the same time. I therefore broke out my friend Mr Angle Grinder this morning and have cut off all 4 front stays. My dilemma is that I now need to decide how much length to remove from each 'arm' of the stays. I plan on bonding the new wings on with Sikaflex, and my side repeaters will be mounted elsewhere. What is the minimum clearance I should leave between the stays and the tyres? I'm assuming the tyres will 'balloon' slightly at speed, but have no idea by how much. Thanks Dave

They're yours. I'll send you a pm. Dave

I've got a pair of 7" chrome headlights removed from my 1998 car last year (to be replaced with black 5 3/4"). One lamp has a stone "bullet hole" in it, but otherwise they're in good condition. Free on collection from East Grinstead, or I'll post at cost. Dave