Colin Mill
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Everything posted by Colin Mill
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Mine has always made the buzzing noise when switched but has been reliable - I assumed it was a TADTS job.
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What is it with having to buy silicone hoses anyway? German tin-tops do 15 years on the original rubber hoses that won't turn to $n0t if you get petrol and oil on them.
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Simply leave the immobiliser active and crank it till you get pressure (the immobiliser does not de-activate the starter).
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Well, it could be lots of things but momentary loss of the crank position sensor signal would certainly do what you are getting.
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Yes, I was looking at them. Did you see the Jaguar V12 E-type hose kit for £280? Fantastic value when you look at the number of hoses involved. I was looking at piecing the set together using standard elbows etc and, surprisingly this isn't all that bad price-wise even with billet joiners. I notice that most of the kits don't bother with moulding the small "J" hose so I guess the 16mm bore silicone hose is OK with the required bend. They also look a bit short in the supplied 16mm hose to do the heater and the submarine tube to header.
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Where do Caterham source their rubber-goods from? I thought my car set something of a record (steering gaiters and top hose perished before it got to the SVA) but obviously not! BTW its worth checking the short (300mm) fuel hose that connects to the fuel rail - mine was dog rotten and I've just sorted it (£1.50 of hose and clips from the local motor-factor as the complete hose+fittings from CC is over 50 quid
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He is cheating - he should have videoed doing it with the engine still in a Rover 200 - that might have slowed him up a bit 😬
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Done BTW what was the survey driving at? 😬
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All very interesting! I wonder if the RAC would have been happy to back up their advice with paying for the engine re-build or worse if a rod came through the side As for the explanation the garage gave for how a missing tooth could cause the rattle words fail me. Unless the engine starts and disengages the starter within one revolution all the teeth on both the starter pinion and the ring gear will be involved every time. It's all rather depressing. I had a conversation with an apprentice at the garage I have used for the last 30 years and it became obvious that despite being in the garage for several years he had not the first idea about how power steering works. Edited by - Colin Mill on 12 Apr 2010 19:27:06
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I think Paul has it right - a few miles with no oil pressure is a lot!
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I suspect the effect of oiling it is marginal. Any aerosol particles that impact onto the surface of the sponge are likely to stay there anyway and oiling it will not significantly affect the proportion of the aerosol that impact on the surface (very fine particles tend to follow the airflow even around quite labyrinthine obstacles. All I do is give the thing a quick spray over with silicone oil.
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Jon I'm slightly confused as, according to the assembly manual the lower end of the spring/damper unit is secured to a boss on the De Dion tube itself using a hex headed bolt BF 1/2 x 2.5 V-grade 10.9. Unfortunately I don't remember assembling this bit so I can't be sure that's right. Edited by - Colin Mill on 26 Oct 2009 17:36:02
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I thought that the red or green colouration had more to do with the type of corrosion inhibitor than the base material.
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Given that the vertical axis moment of inertia summation involves the square of the distance of the mass element from the CofG I suspect the improvement in this from moving the engine in this way might be disappointingly low for the amount of effort required. It would be interesting to compare it with,say, the effect of reducing the weight in the wheel/hub/brake/wing assemblies as much as possible (as these are about the furthest things from the CofG). Also, perhaps replacing the DD tube with a light alloy structure. Edited by - Colin Mill on 25 Oct 2009 09:50:21
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Strangely I had almost exactly the same problem restarting my 1963 Massey Ferguson at the weekend 😬 Simply charging the battery did the trick so I'm guessing it just didn't quite have enough grunt to throw the thing into engagement.
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Caterham send the kit engines out on a stand made out of square drawn tube. I would be inclined to just get some 3 x 2 timber and make something up.
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From what they have here their own chargers still use a 13.8v float charge which is what is used by the vast majority of conditioners. About the only difference is the 14.7v bulk charge which is perhaps a bit high for a SLA so my guess is you could use an SLA conditioner on the Powervamp battery but it would be not so good to use the powervamp charger on an SLA. I have set my float charger down to about 13.5v as this slightly lower voltage is safe from gradual water loss over the -10C to +40C temperature range. Edited by - Colin Mill on 15 Sep 2009 09:03:07
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I put a 28A.Hr AGM type battery on mine a couple of years ago (having had a couple of conventional batteries die in quick succession) and its still doing fine. It was under 40 quid! Perhaps the most important thing is to keep it either isolated or on a maintenance charge as the standard immobiliser pulls a steady 14mA when parked. If the car lives outside a small regulated solar charger - say 50 sq. inch - would be able to cope with this even in winter.
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Yes, sorry to forget that detail. This is also the current after the immobiliser has armed itself and the inverter in the ECU has stopped whistling.
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The way I check the current leak take a bit of juggling but gets around any problem of the immobiliser/ECU pulling a large current on power up. I set the DVM on the 2 amp range. Take the nut off the ground terminal but leave the ring terminal(s) on the bolt so the system is still powered. Then, while holding one prod ofthe DVM against the ring terminal(s) and one agains the battery negative terminal I pull the ring terminals off the bolt so the earth current to the battery is flowing through the DVM. On a standard Rover MEMs and immobiliser mine pulls a steady 0.014A (14mA). Much more than this is likely to be a leakage fault.
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I don't see how it would account for the chargers going to the 'green' state when flicked off and on again. Good puzzle!
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Interesting what they say here about the MAPS - that you can basically drive the car around with a duff one without noticing it by the ECU using a reserve mapping based on rpm and throttle butterfly position! (but of course that would be making assumptions about the pressure situation)
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Given that Ian has had no problem at altitude I wonder if the systems that show altitude sensitivity have something amiss (i.e leaked MAPS vac. reference??). I know we don't always have much faith in Rover engineering but given that the Bosch D-jetronic system got altitude correction right back in the 1960s how could Rover get it so wrong in the 1980s?
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But so long as the fuel pressure regulator is referenced to the manifold pressure (which it is on the standard set-up) this is not a problem because the mass of air entering the cylinder can be characterised from the absolute manifold pressure, manifold air temperature and rpm without need for the absolute air pressure. This is the effect you get if the fuel pressure regulator is referenced to ambient pressure rather than manifold pressure (unless the system has been mapped for this eventuality) With the regulator referenced to ambient the pressure drop across the injector increases as the manifold vacuum increases (i.e. at light loads). Edited by - Colin Mill on 25 Aug 2009 15:32:07
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I would be seriously surprised if the ECU couldn't cope at 1500m. The ICAO standard air density for 1500m ASL is 1.058 kg/ cu.m compared with a sea-level density of 1.225 kg/cu.m so we are looking at a 14% shift in density. You get the same shift in density going from 0C to 38C air temperature (at constant pressure) so a system that would run into difficulty at 1500m would be in trouble in Spain in the summer. You can get a 10% pressure variation between extreme cyclonic and anticyclonic weather conditions as well. Edited by - Colin Mill on 25 Aug 2009 11:24:26