TeKK

Thanks guys, some great info, I've got plenty places to call now for quotes and asking about recovery services. Girlfriend has even offered to help with the costs

I've heard him talked about in high regards, I take it he can sort the whole job out? If so I'll give him a call as soon as poss.

Hi all, (also posted to the Se7ens list) Well my misfire was indeed the head gasket 😔 So I need to find somewhere/someone near St. Neots or in the Cambridgeshire/Bedfordshire area who can sort the whole job. I simply do not feel confident pulling it all apart myself. Did I hear someone say DVA Power is in MK? I'll probably need to get the car recovered to a place anyway (it's driveable but only for short distances now)

Sorry, no good, it's the newer model which doesn't fit my intake. That one you've pointed out attaches directly onto the intake, mine is spaced away from it with a brass arm on a spring return that works with the throttle. Unless of course someone comes along and says it can be modified to take the new one Thanks for the offer tho

Does anyone have a fully functional of the above that I can borrow to replace my own? I'm trying to find the source of my misfire and rather than spending the £120 on a new one, I'd like to try another first It's one of these: http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/9893/mkg10004.jpg It is for a 1.4 K series Supersport with the aluminium air intake. Further details can be found - here I will happily donate to NTL or provide beer tokens if it works (I've also posted this in tech talk)

Does anyone have a fully functional of the above that I can borrow to replace my own? I'm trying to find the source of my misfire and rather than spending the £120 on a new one, I'd like to try another first It's one of these: http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/9893/mkg10004.jpg It is for a 1.4 K series Supersport with the aluminium air intake. Further details can be found - here I will happily donate to NTL or provide beer tokens if it works (I'll also post this in the wanted section)

Hi all, My adventure solving the misfire continues, I have replaced the fuel filter, drained tank and refitted after checking all connections etc. However on start-up when the fuel pump initially primes, it has a different tone, could this be because of the new fuel filter? (The previous one was VERY old, an oversight) I put 5l of fuel in the tank but on start up it ran very lumpy, almost stalling and the manifold started to smoke (no smell, could be dust? spider webs? she's been sat for about a month) I read on another thread that it's a better idea to put in 10l of fuel, am I starving the engine of fuel with just 5l? ---- And on a different note, I have a standard 1.4 K Supersport. What do I need to read the ECU. Which cable? Which software? and where can I get them? Thanks in advance

A previous owner of my car had also jacked it from roughly the same location. The subtle bend is still there, but the car is still fine I wouldn't worry.

Update Yet again a 15 minute job is scuppered by siezed bolts. I can't get the bolts of the fuel filter to release their grasp from both ends (to the fuel lines) I've poured a liberal amount of 3in1 oil on them for now, has anyone got any advice? Rotating the filter to try and unscrew from the fixed fuel line, only served to spin both bolts. Counter-rotating/much swearing and I'm no further forward.

I was about to edit my post to say, judging by the photos on Alcester, the nut/thread on the J-Piece seems to be the one that detaches, as it can move vertically along the pipe. I shall attack it with vast amounts of WD40 in the morning Once I've got all this sorted, I'll snap a load of photos, currently the fuel tank is out too.

I haven't tried unbolting the top joint yet, I'm still stuck with the connection from the rubber fuel pipe to the J-piece. It seems to be either siezed solid or I'm just doing it wrong from what you say, counter-rotating both bolts on the connection is right? Or at least holding one still?

Hi everyone, Can someone please give me an idiots guide to disconnecting the fuel lines on the fuel filter? (I've already checked Alcester for the method but I'm a little stuck) Specifically the J-piece, I can see rubber fuel line going in, with the large nut, but when I try and undo this it turns but tries to turn the J-piece with it and this then twists the rubber fuel line, until it's pretty stuck and I can't turn it anymore without starting to bend the J-Piece and almost rip the thing from the bulkhead. Do I have to counter-rotate the small nut on the J-piece to undo it? Help!

Minor Update Fitted a new set of HT leads as Number 1 fell apart in my hands upon removal. Upon fitting the new leads, I heeded Angus' information and get the HT lead well away from the crank sensor. Fitted a new ignition coil as I was suspecting the coil itself was old and overheating. However, the misfire still remains. Same issue, run her for a bit and she starts to miss and then gets progressively worse. But I think I'm getting much closer to the source. Earlier in the thread, Mort mentioned stuff stuck in the fuel tank. There's about 1/4 of a tank remaining and the car has been all well if I drive through town at a sedate pace. Opening her up in a 60 zone, the miss got very bad, so I pulled over and the engine actually stalled. I gave it a minute while I checked under the bonnet and restarted her. She took a bit of cranking but then started and was fine, the short drive home she started to miss again. My belief is that it could indeed be the jelly substance mentioned frequently on here or some other contaminate in the fuel, which once I start moving briskly, gets sucked over to the pump/filter, effectively blocking it. So my next step will be to drain the fuel tank, flush it out, refill and see how it goes. Edited by - TeKK on 14 May 2011 16:03:07

How can I spot the lambda probe wire? If it's unused can I just remove it? Also, what is the correct method for resetting the ECU? Is it: "Ignition to point 2, open throttle 5 times, ignition off" Am going to check the HT lead to the coil and the various other wires to the cool, plus remove the new dizzy and inspect that.

Temp gauge is reading between 80-90 and oil pressure is at 4. So when I say very hot, I mean at a nice running temperature. This was after about 15 minutes of driving, with a stint of revving up to 4-5000rpm