petereliot

Sorry - I didn't post the rather complicated answer partly because if widely known then it rather renders pointless the whole purpose of having an immobiliser! I think I can now programme my fob to be compatible with anybody else's autowatch immobiliser without needing them to deactivate it or do anything else to it first. However if the general consensus is that I should post the answer then I am happy to do so?

Thanks a lot for everybody's help. Just to confirm that it did turn out to be an Autowatch fob and they provided the answer as to how to recode it. Thanks!

Thanks a lot for all the help and replies. I'm out of the country for a few days but will try those suggestions when I am back.

OK, let's try this: https://picasaweb.google.com/107263502081028473391/Other#5870508550930331890

I do have a pic but (and I'm probably being thick) I'm not aware of any way to attach it here? There are no markings on it to indicate the make.

Yes, nothing obvious wrong inside. It wasn't obvious which way the batteries went but the led doesn't light up when I put them the other way round so I don't think I've missed anything obvious

Thanks for the link. Unfortunately still no joy though after following the instructions for the single button key fob (which is the closest match to mine but still not the same). I guess that means that either mine is more customised with a different resetting procedure, or just does not work anymore. Either way, I guess I will need to employ the services of an expert to replace / reprogramme it..... Thanks anyway.

Having just replaced the battery in my spare immobiliser remote, it unfortunately still does not work. I am assuming that it needs to be reprogrammed after a period without power. Can anybody help tell me how to do this? The immobilser fob is black, about 4 cm long, 1 cm wide, has a button at the top end which is about 1cm across and a red LED that lights up when the button is pressed. I have a picture of it but don't think I can attach it to this post? Would be very grateful if anybody can help!

I take my earlier post back. I was going to be there. Clutch problem on the way up ☹️

I've signed up and am a complete novice too! Don't even have the benefit of having done a passenger ride or of knowing the track!

Its a K series. Roadsport 1.8 VVC

The battery is maintained by a solar panel powered trickle charger but that doesn't appear to be enough. However in the past when the battery has been allowed to get too low and won't start the car (and shows different symptoms) , I have used a freestanding jumpstarter. This was fully charged (and producing sparks galore) but was still not able to get the car going on this occasion. But I come back to my point that the main reason I don't believe it can be battery (or starter) related is that this would not explain why the engine died after I had got it going the first few times but then let the revs fall. Many thanks for all your help. I think I should probably stop guessing and get the AA out for a professional opinion!

FYI: Whirring is from starter motor Engine is not being turned over

No apology necessary especially since No, I'm not at all sure !!!!!! Does that change anything? I still feel the problem can't lie in the battery or starter though given the points at the start of the thread.

Yes, I am getting sparking from the jump leads so I don't think it is a lack of power problem. I've also often found myself starting the car where the battery has died just enough to not be able to start the car and that does sound very different (clicking rather than whirring). Many thanks for all the suggestions though.